This is 1x TiCu and 1x Ti Stonewash unmodded lights. If you notice the one on the right has solder blobs on the switch board. I think the theory was you may not have to crank the tail down as hard if those are there. However it seemed to cause 2 problems for me:
1) The clip would twist some, not easily or freely but certainly not tight and none of the new Ti ones have that clear o ring near the clip.
2) It would sometimes make the switch lose contact. I suspect depending on how close/far from a blob I pressed? It would turn a press and hold into just a press and âlet goâ sometimes.
I used my iron to smooth out and wick up as much of that solder as possible. Cleaned my tip several times and just painted it all around the board smooth. Tail cranks down tighter on the clip and the switch seems just as reliable as the other one. I also took some wet 2000 grit to the inside of the stonewashed light where the switch rubs the body since I had it apart. No idea if it helped or not.
Thanks illumn for the binder clip tip. I did use it to get the ring loose but finished with just the end of some tweezers cause it was fairly smooth after that.
I had to file out the groove in the tail cap to seat the switch boot rim into it. The only way the light worked is if I cranked the hell out of the tail cap and then drove the signal tube into the switch PCB when I tightened the head. I checked with a DMM and had zero continuity between spring and tail cap threads with the tail cap off. Wasnât getting the âFlashâ as the head made contact with the battery to the driver spring. Probably the reason they solder blobbed the trace on your switchâŚ
You can reset the ceiling level if you want. 21 clicks is the factory setting.
With light turned On, click 4 times to enter ramp config mode. At the prompts (fluttering light), respectively, click 1 time, then 21 times. If there is a 3rd prompt, click 7 times (this is seen when in stepped ramping mode).
Anybody ever figure out why the latest FW3A lights go into freak out mode (drop to around 300 lumens) at the ceiling setting then slowly recover almost back to the full ceiling output â- I figure by now Toykeeper would have chimed in on this topic
Part of the problem is thermal lag from the body to the sensor. TK had to set the sensor to anticipate the rapid heat increase and act quickly.
As far as this being more common on the latest versions, idk. Are these latest lights running a new version of Anduril or the original? What is different about them?
If yours is doing this, all I can recommend is the basic thing we tell everyone which is to calibrate the ambient temperature.
Iâve calibrated the Thermal âcheated on the settings both ambient and max both ways â the light isnât hot when this happensâ from turn on at around 20 seconds it happensâthe crazy thing is once it happens you can go back up to the ceiling and it will hold until the battery dropsâno matter what you set them on it always does this freak out thingâI read somewhere she mentioned jitter â this freak out reminds me when I have trouble with current ripple on guppy drives that reset the programmed mode
I know muggle mode would sometimes do a sudden lumen drop even though the light wasnât hot. Calibrating the thermal sensor helped, but didnât always eliminate it. I have not heard much about this.
My early light does not do this, not even in muggle mode so Iâm not very familiar with the issue.
YepâOnce I calibrated and dropped my ceiling a little on my Group Buy light â-It sits around 800 lumens and camps out â itâs a XPL version â the newer problem child I modded to Samsung 4Ksâbut it had this problem with the XPL 1As
Do you have a way of measuring your lights or are you just going by what you see with the naked eyeâ-I stated earlier last week this problem was hardly visible by the eye
Iâm not talking about TurboâIâm talking about the Ceiling (top of ramp or last mode) The light goes in panic from Ceiling (arounf 700-800 Lumens) and drops to about 300- 400 lumens the gradually works its way back up to right under the ceiling level âyou can notice it with the eye but not that easily
My Ti/Cu has a quick drop, top of ceiling 886lm drops to 412lm after a few seconds and then slowly drops to 126lm and stays. Battery was at 3.68v. Charging it up nowâŚ.Iâll check temp settings and Iâll try it againâŚ
Iâve been able to drop the ceiling to around 600 âIt still drops at around 15 seconds but only to around 450 â then it works its way back up close to 600âthe crazy part isâonce it does this little dance you can go back to the ceiling and it will stay there with the normal gradual decline from heat/cell usage
Checked all 8 of mineâŚ2 of which are the recent Ti Ti/Cu versions on my Maukka/TA tube and both Ti versions are doing what you describe on temp calibrated fully charged cells? Both ceilings around 900-800lm dropping to 450-400lm and then ramping back upâŚmaintaining 700-760lmâŚ
