Saw this on reddit,
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1qrk4gp/fwaafw1aa_back_in_production/
Saw this on reddit,
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1qrk4gp/fwaafw1aa_back_in_production/
Shame about the driver. I do like the host, but it’s hard to justify when the D3AA, KR1AA, EC150, M150v4 are out there.
Any good drivers for any easy swap and still have Anduril?
Yeah shame about the low quality driver whats the point then..
Just curious, what is “bad” or, low quality, about the driver that was used originally.. and apparently will be used in the latest production. How do they differ from the one used in the KR1AA I have an FWAA and really have no problems with it. Maybe I just am missing something. Or, possibly they aren’t that bad??
The D3AA and KR1AA use a Boost driver.
The FWAA/FW1AA use a FET+1 driver.
So does the highly coveted TS10!
It’s seems like almost everyone wants Buck or Boost these days.
Buck and Boost are supposed to be more efficient and give you longer run times.
I haven’t seen any real life comparisons proving how much longer(maybe it’s because I’m not looking for them).
I EDC a FW3A literally everyday, I use it at work and after I get home around the house.
The FW3A has a FET+7+1 driver and the battery lasts me a couple weeks and I typically swap out the battery when it gets to 3.6v.
Maybe because I prefer 18650 lights with 3x the mAh than a 14500 my opinion is skewed.
In addition to higher efficiency, the boost driver in the D3AA, KR1AA, and Zebralights also allow them to run on both 1.5V AA and 3.7V lithium ion. In contrast, the drivers in the FWAA/FW1AA only allow operation with 3.7V lithium ion and cannot run on AA.
That said, while boost drivers are superior, I still buy plenty of lights without them. To me, the driver is just one factor in the decision and not even the biggest factor.
I’ll happily buy a light with a less efficient driver if it has something else I like such as appealing body shape, size, great emitter, nice optic, high-CRI, , zoom, interesting UI, etc.
OK. Yes I suppose that the buck drivers are “better” as in more efficient. But honestly, I have had a TS10 in my pocket for the last couple of years. With my usage I charge it maybe once per month. When the voltage check shows it at or under 3.9 volts. But the TS10 is mostly a backup light for whatever I am using for a specific task…
Yes, usually that is a 21700 light. But they are not nearly as convenient to EDC. I have wanted a FW1AA. I don’t think the FET driver will keep me from ordering one when they are available. Having the “best” is always nice. But for me having something that I want because of other attributes is more important.
Thanks for the response.
I missed the boat on these the first time around. Have a few of the FWAA though. It’s just a great design aesthetically and it is so diminutive. The driver is what it is, Lumintop makes really weird choices all of the time. 519 is a good choice.
They could save money on leaving it unbranded. Then put that towards a better driver…
But you has a kr1aa now…
I will never use an Alkaleak in a flashlight again so AA compatibility is never a bonus for me.
Yes… But I still like the form factor better in the FWAA and FW1AA lights. A tad smaller and lighter. Not that much, but enough to make a difference in the pocket…
Besides, I have wanted one for a while but they weren’t avaialble. Now they are!
If I only bought lights that I actually need, I would have far, far, fewer than I do…![]()
On the original fw1aa the nichia 219a I had the largest hotspot compared to the sst20 and the osram.
Will the 519a have an even larger hotspot? If so it will have less throw than any of the previous three.
That kind of defeats the whole point of the fw1aa. I don’t keep up with 14500 lights so maybe it’ll still be kind of a good thrower for it’s size?
I got all three on the first go-round. I carried the SST20 on a leash looped through a belt loop and then hanging in a pocket. I carried it that way for a couple of months to see if I could use it daily to replace the fw1a that was my primary EDC at the time. For me the throw and the runtime was not suitable.
There are better batteries today.
And if you’re going to carry it loose in a pocket you’re going to have to lock it with 4 clicks.
I love my KR1AA, but I’m still gonna try to get one of these FW1AAs. I’m not as interested in the triple version, since I have a few TS10s and D3AAs. I’ve always wanted an FW1AA though from the minute I learned of it.
It’s a shame about the worse driver, but maybe someone will be able to find a straight swap or one that requires little work.
I get that. But it is more of the point of filling a place in the collection than utility.
OTH, I think the FW1AA was to answer requests for more throw. But it is not something I care about in any light in this class. My main small pocket light has been a TS10 since they were released. For the role I need from it, that has been fine, and it is far from a thrower. If I can see the entire floor of width of my hallway, and from one end of the house to the other(about 60 feet or what, 18 meters) all is good. I have lots of other lights for walking, critter hunting, 15K+ lumen, and 1000 meter plus class lights if I need them.