Will surface be smooth enough after this?
Yes if you use a new one. Some people use very fine sandpaper to polish it but i’m not sure anyone has proven that to be of any benefit and it can even be harmful if bond wires are involved.
Try one partial slice as a test, it’s generally very smooth. Then, go for a deeper second cut.
Edit: this is probably obvious but you want to make sure it’s soldered to an MCPCB so you have something to securely hold it. You can use a flat washer over the top as a guide if you can get it to the right height or just freehand it.
I’m interested in LH351B 2200K and 3000K. 6 of each.
Thanks for the information.
PM was sent
If someone still interesting in 351D 4000K 90cri 40pcs are available)
I am waiting for the LH351D 5000K 90CRI to arrive at you 
I would be very happy, if I could see spectral/CRI measurement before I will buy them. If results are promising, I might exceed my initial interest numbers.
I can remember, that you have (or you did have) LH351B 2200K of two different performance bins. What is your current stock of them?
Managed to put LH351B 2200K in my EagleEyes X1R. I really like them warm CCTs. Quick photos with my smartphone (WB Daylight).
Left to Right: EE X1R (219C 2700K), EE X1R (LH351B 2200K), OTR M3 Pro (Nichia E21A 2000K). All with TIR Optics.
Not visible in the photo but 351B 2200K definitely warmer than 219C 2700K in real life. But still not as warm as I wanted it to be. Candle like E21A 2000K still my favorite of the bunch.
Left to Right: Cricket knockoff lighter in TURBO, OTR M3 Pro E21A 2000K + diffuser, EE X1R LH351B 2200K + diffuser
Thanks AEDe.
Two different bins it is about 3000K .
5000K 351D are already in Moscow I think I will get them at Friday and will start shipping at next Monday.
aswang, you could set WB to incandescent lamp then differense would be obvious.
[quote=AEDe]
Tried that. Still can’t see the difference in the photo although it’s quite clear to my the eyes. Must be my shitty phone camera.
More comparisons with other high cri leds (assorted tir optics)
Thanks for the comparison. So they are not using the same TIR? From my own experiences, the LH351D 4000k is even more greener than the E21A 4000k than the difference shown in your pic but batch migh not be the same. The LH351B doesn’t seem to have any green but would need a known good WW emitter like the SST-20-W or E21A 3000k to compare with.
Has anyone tested the LH351B 2.200K 80CRI or 3.000K 90CRI yet? I wish there was a nice chart to see how it performs at certain current settings. I assume it's not appropriate to use it with direct drive, is it?
I did a quick test on the 3000K 90CRI LH351B but only up to 2.5A to preserve it.
I have some of the 2200k in the mail, ill post what they test out as. CRI at least
Here’s some more data on the 3000K 90CRI LH351B.
They’re using different angle beaded TIRs. Lost track on which one’s which because of all the swapping. All I remember is that the e21A 4000K uses Yajiamei 60° and the SST20 4000K 20° beaded from Convoy Store. The rest are either 38, 45 or 60°.
I got the LH351D 4000K from Led4Power. Not sure from which batch its from. It’s a little bit green when compared side by side with E21A or even SST-20 but its ok with me and I don’t notice it in actual use. I might try some LEE Minus Greens when they arrive.
I don’t have SST-20 or E21A 3000K yet but I do have some arriving so I’ll try to compare later. I do like the tints of these LH351Bs and don’t find them greenish or yellowish at all. But I do notice that I have a little bit higher tolerance going above BBL compared to a few very sensitive people here.
If you have time for this I could send you 2200k , current bin of 351D 4000, and new bin of 351B 3000k and 351D 5000k 90cri for testing.
Finally
5000k?
Part number breakdown for those who are curious. The order code will typically have the last six digits F4RTS6, which covers a relatively broad range of forward voltage, color temperature, and output ratings.
There is also a reel specific code that refines those last 6 digits: F2R1S2
F2 = 2.8-3.0V (good)
R1 = Tint bin straddling the BBL, 5000-5300K (good)
S2 = 380-400 lumens at 1050mA (fair)
Specs sound good.