I need expert opinion. Does D80 stock reflector fit for XP-G2 emitter?
Just got mine today OMG at last, i ordered Dec 19, 2015 received it February 17, 2016 that’s about 2 months.
Hi guys, I foolish ran about 8v in the torch today. It lit up for a split second then stopped working. How can I test if it’s the emitter or driver that needs replacing?
It does fit an XP-G2, you will have to find a spacer that will fit the xpg2, I had one from an unknown light in my parts box…
finally after 9 weeks, i received mine. 3c tint.
small but freaking bright!
again thank you krono
*edit: when will 1A restock?
If you are looking for high-drain cells in the US, robo is running a nice Group Buy on many different cells (also many other sizes besides 18650) here. 
Actually Krono all the cells on the entire site are 20% off with minimum of 4 cells per order in that GB.
Thanks for clarifying
Received a second light this week. But its not working properly. You can turn it on, but it is super super dim. Freshly charged battery, blindingly bring in the first light, second is ultra low only. Any ideas?
Hi Krono,
Long Tube for BLF D80 out of stock
Can you tell me, when it will be available again?
does this light have low voltage cut off?
How does this light compare in throw to xintd c8?
the the 4k-4200 k too warm for most use or is it better in the woods for seeing animals?
I am stuck between this and the cpf Italian comet
No low-voltage cutoff.
C8 throws more, but D80 puts out more lumens.
Don’t know about your tint question. Mine is a 3C.
EDIT: Depends which version of the C8 you have. The XinTD C8 V5 XP-G2 definitely outthrows the D80. XinTD C8 V5 XM-L2 throws about the same.
[quote=MEM]
I’ve got all dedomes to work and Nichia 219Cs actually with those 3D printed spacers above. The spacing problem is a minor shift in Z axis reflector height when dedomed, but easily adjusted by the spacer.
I’ve been busy as heck with assembly of D80s, but I’ve been getting beamshots ready and some specifications tested between 4 or 5 LED configurations that work in the light with the stock reflector, and with a custom lens type I had designed that provides a small degree of smooth natural flood (~13°) with a very focused XP-G2 die image (~5°).
The front lens protectors I messed around with, one design I made inadvertently reminded me of a jet engine exhaust or nozzle on a fighter jet in some context. Whoops. But, I ran with it anyways.
Tell me pls, where to get lens like this?
Only from MEM, if he will let you have any. It is designed and 3D printed by him.
Than, any convex lens 39mm diameter?
Custom build, custom lenses. A full lens MFG run. $$$
Like a group buy, that I eat the cost on, to be able to distribute.
I still have a lot of reflector versions of 1A, 3C, 5A in stock that can ship from Illinois, all able to ship in reflector form either de-domed/domed, with their stock XM-L2s, or XP-G2s, XP-L HI, XHP50, and I will even do XHP70—if you dare want to use that beast. That would be using a high-amp buck driver setup, or a 7135 driver (depending on desired amperage), running 2*18350s for the 6V LED overhead voltage, or to push a XPG2 hard with a buck driver. The buck driver/7135 driver versions are the beasts, they just do not run as long of course. All properly spaced in reflector form, and way, way better heat-sinking when I am done with them no matter which form as I drill and tap the heads. The heat moves to the fins so much faster having a “clamped MCPCB”…no thermal imaging needed, you can hold two side-by-side and feel the difference. It is simply the most heat sinking that can practically be obtained from the stock host without additional metal being added.
The aspheric versions take a lot of work. I have been making adjustments, still, to obtain the kcd numbers I am after. But closing in on home-plate. A single layer thinner than a piece of paper is the difference between proper focus, and improper focus. When dealing with lenses this size—it’s very critical to get it right.
i have always suspected that artic paste was actually an insulator compared to solder or a screwed down star. my friend told me recently that the artic paste, in non-led applications, spreads out the heat, and prevents fatal “hot spots” on circuit boards and other parts.
Good qual thermal grease is a definite help. I’d think MEM is still using something under the MCPCB, even though it’s screwed down, as I do. Probably not your typical AS5 though, for MEM. I stopped using AS5 - I use GX Extreme and Arctic MX4 now, but just based on ratings/postings. MEM is probably using something custom or not well known - not sure.
I got my long tube today I’ll be turning down the thread a bit so it fits the other tube, then I’ll need a 6 volt driver and a XHP50 or XHP70.
I know some mods have been done with these lights but I have not read every post to see which mods or what was used.
I had one of the 2 D80’s I ordered that had a weak driver in it (2.7 amps at tail at best) so I decided to see what a 17mm Standard FET with Memory driver and a XP-L HI V2 3D LED on Noctigon 20mm would do in it.
The light I modded has a spring bypass on the driver end only at the moment and it is now doing 5.2 - 5.3 amps at tailcap with a much tighter hotspot and throwing like a champ. The stock D80 with the original driver in it (the good one of the two) is doing 4.1 amps at tailcap with the tail spring bypassed.
Here are some comparison beamshots of the original and the modded one…………
Original Gate 100yds
Modded Gate 100yds
Original 175yds
Modded 175yds
Modded at 400yds (original wont make it that far)
Modded 400yds Enlarged
Original Left / Modded Right
