Do they come in white also?
UMMMMMMMM think this is a first time to see the whole head put in for a dedome. :~
It's a good plan, but I went in a different direction. Good though you keep the costs down - this is a budget forum 
. Here's my views though:
- the stock LED w/unknown bin in my 3C D80 under-performed in amps, even compared to the new generation XM-L2's - it had to go (for me)
- the stock driver, again, too many unknowns - not worth the time/effort, and you can't fix the firmware anyway to do what you want it to do - it had to go
- I didn't measure the voltage drop across the tail assembly, but once you put a 22 or 20 AWG wire bypass thru the spring, you recover nearly all the loss's from a stock setup - that I can measure easy in my PVC lightbox (lumens output). It has a pretty decent switch.
- screwing down the MCPCB: there are differing opinions on this. I chose not to do this on this light, but I'm still thinking it helps. The argument against it is it can cause the center of the MCPCB to bow up, resulting in air space directly under the LED. I myself haven't seen evidence of this, but others have - comfy brought this up wayy back. You can apply a felt tip marker or other thin layer of a wet substance across the bottom of the star and see where it makes contact to prove it. I think/believe that the pressure of the reflector can counter-act that, and also I think it depends on the screw placement, and the surface of the pill top. Many of the pill tops in these budget lights are not perfectly flat - some peak in the middle, some have a depression. I usually sand down the machine marks to get the surface smooth for lapping to the MCPCB (slowly going up to 2500 grit). If you use a 20 mm MCPCB and use a pair of notches as the screw holes, and use flat head screws, tightening down the screws can create pressure towards the center of the MCPCB, resulting in it lifting up -- this is a bad thing. I like using the Maxtoch 26 mm MCPCB's and drill my own holes for the screws - the pressure is more evenly dispersed. These little details should be considered. There's other ways to eliminate or reduce that effect.
- For de-doming, I only ever have put the LED mounted on the MCPCB in a small gas jar, laying on the bottom and I can see when the dome develops an air bubble, then eventually falls off. If couple hours elapses with it not falling off, I'll take it out and check if it's ready to fall off (give it a nudge). If it's loose, I'll carefully help it along.
De-doming on BLF has come a long way since the days of pump-gasoline use. We discovered some time back that using the heat of the emitter itself to pop the dome results in a much cleaner light output. This is done by removing the reflector, complete disassembly isn’t required and in fact, the assembled light is the path of de-dome. A dozen lights can be de-domed usually in about 60 seconds each (or less). No smell, no waiting.
Chemical de-doming is so 8 months ago. 
Got my 5A yesterday, I like it 
I think its my new favorite
There are a lot of dedomes done without using any sealant afterwards, and to my knowledge no ill affects so far.
Over a period of time I believe it has been questioned if the particulates and oxidation may factor in, but so far I don’t think any have been reported. I could be wrong but this is to the best of my knowledge at this time.
Edit:If you are worried about sealing the LED there is a sealer sold on amazon for these…….
https://www.google.com/search?q=LED+seal
RMM at Mtnelectronics describes using LEDseal. Might even sell it, not sure offhand.
Richard (RMM) is the one that gave me the link to this……(what he uses)
May supposedly has taken some pics of the new long tube mated to the D80-SE head so we can see the color differences of the tube. She emailed them to me, but I don’t have access to them at work. I will try to post the pics tonight, unless she beats me to it first.
is it possible to use adapters like this?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007066/1576101-xm-l-reflector-to-xp-g-reflector-converter
Both adapters do fit XP-leds but are too small for the D80 reflector opening.
If i find/make adapter that fit D80 reflector opening,
What is the best led type for D80: XP-G2, XPL or others?
This is the comparison pic. The new, longer tube is on the left. The D80-SE with original stock tube is on the right. The tube color look very comparable, but it is hard to tell from just a picture.
Geeezzzz, the 21st Century at least deserves a COLOR picture.
I ordered one; we’ll see how it compares. Within a few weeks I hope.
PS… from the picture they supplied you can’t tell if the light is the BLF edition or the standard LS. I want a longer tube so one light, in the hands of a very non technical person, can use a protected cell without the need for any wire spacers like I have done. Plain Jane simple foolproof is what I need for one light, one person, with protected cell. Color mismatch, even if it is black and not grey will not matter. Heck a grey / black light will match the seat upolstery in the truck the light will be in. :bigsmile: .
Maybe this will help, shows up as virtually the same color, be difficult to tell really without actually putting it on the head with the tail cap on it.
Its 2 bucks guys. Just order the thing if you want it…
Is there a coupon for it? IT"S $2.72... closer to 3 Bucks.
No, original price was 2.99.
Crazy just got one of mine today and it swallowed my 30q with a few mm to spare can’t believe people are having a hard time with protected cells but then again I don’t own any…
I’m hoping the boogie monster didn’t get my other one. It supposedly shipped two days before this one but I had tracking on this one only. Not gonna go without from now on. I hate not knowing.
Very unique little light supposed to be 5a but I’m not sure seems a bit greenish need to compare it with my a6’s I suppose.
Thanks for the opportunity krono! 