today received my Sams 30q. Only About 2A on my D80 3c. :_(
DMM brand? Used custom leads? High current measurements are too much dependent on the method to not mention how it is done.
batteries from GB
http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_196913.html
Measured high current on the tail without switch
vjik, if you used the stock probes with the DMM your numbers will be quite low on a high power light. If you use 12ga leads maybe 6” long you’ll be a lot closer to actual. When I first made the step up from stock probe leads, I used 12 ga solid Romex household wires. Doubled over one end so it’d go in the DMM. Stiff, difficult to work with, but the difference was amazing. I then got some 12ga Turnigy Silicone Coated wires that are very flexible and it became much easier, soldered gold plated banana clips on the ends.
Then came the clamp meter so anything over 10A wouldn’t blow the fuse and now I seldom use the DMM for anything more than continuity testing.
freeme has a group buy going on for the UNI-T 210E clamp meter, about 30 members here have bought that one, including myself, so it might be a good option for you and it’d keep us all “on the same page” as it were. 
EX: My Velleman DMM with factory leads shows 2.22A on a X6 MT-G2 light. Using the 12ga leads gives 5.61A. I just got the UNI-T in the mail today, it shows 6.39A and my Mastech clamp meter shows 6.09. The slight difference between the clamp meters might just be from running down the pair of 18350’s at such high current.
I still do not quite understand how does this way work. So the heat from the emitter will soften the dome? And then what to do?
Heat softens the connection between the dome and the emitter die/substrate. I usually cut along the edge of the circular dome with a scalpel first, then turn the light on in Turbo and in about 20-30 seconds the dome will flip off with slight pressure from the scalpel. I use the tip of scalpel to lift from the opposite side to the bond wires. Very slight upward lift, when the bond softens you can see the separation come between the two surfaces. I gently peel it up and over, flipping it off the substrate. I’m able to look at it because I use a welders mask lens.
XP-L’s don’t like this method, work better at a lower heat. XM-L and XM-L2 do this easily, in the light, takes seconds. XP-G2’s can be finicky.
So my D80 arrived today and I wanted to post up a big thank you to everyone involved in the GB - really appreciate all your hard work and wow, what a torch!
First impressions are good. Strong light, feels good quality.
I’ve never modified anything in my life, but I wondered if anyone has changed the reflector? See, with such throw there’s a strong hotspot when used close up. I wondered if I could reduce that……perhaps by changing or orange peel’ing the reflector?... I literally know nothing, so I might be on the wrong path, but I’d gladly sacrifice some throw for less hot spot if that’s possible at all.
Try some diffuser film/tape. Others say its the bomb. Simple too. Apply and remove from the lens at your fancy. Someone on forum was selling strips here not long back.
Nightshade, check out this link for what it's all about. I think you'll like it.
That does look absolutely perfect, but sadly it’s US only and I’m in the UK. I’ll drop him a PM and see if he knows where I might get some over here. I much prefer this idea over permanently modifying my reflector - thank you!
Something else to look into is getting a broken or non working display screen from a cell phone or laptop. If you disassemble the screen you’ll find diffuser material which you can use. Just cut it to the size of your lens, unscrew the bezel and place it on. Here’s an instructable about making weird glasses but you’ll see the material.http://www.instructables.com/id/Diffuser-Polarizer-Glasses/
Check out old lumens on you tube. He sprays some sort of clear coat directly on the reflector which fogs it out and diffuses the beam.
Maybe its asked before, but I got 4 D80s, 1 x 1A, 1 x 3C an 2 x 5A. I can’t find any markings on the box telling me what tint each light has.
Any way to know what tint it is without turning them all on and compare?
If I am not mistaken the lighter the color of the phosphor on the emitter, the cooler the tint should be, thus the darkest colored ones should be your warmest tint and lightest colored ones you coolest.
Just install batteries in all and turn them on. You will instantly see the difference in tints.
My tint was not printed on the box either, however there is a stock number on the BOX LABEL. Compare box stock number to webpage listing stock number and you'll see on webpage which tint you have.
That compares with gas de-doming, don’t know if the tint shift is similar as you have yet to “fire it up”. Gas de-doming often causes a shift towards pea green in the tint, very few people actually like that.
Hot de-doming isn’t trying to soften the silicone dome, the dome comes off intact and still firm. And it’s not introducing chemicals or heat that you wouldn’t otherwise already be using when operating the light.
As you see above, I trim around the base of the dome with a scalpel first, turn the light on in turbo, then lift gently on the dome with the point of the scalpel. Within 20-30 seconds it visibly peels away from the phosphor, flipping over towards the bond wires and releasing. Many times there is still silicone under the bond wires, which is fine as it supports them. Sometimes I clean off the remaining silicone from the substrate, sometimes I leave it on as in this pic.
Emitters done in this way usually have a much more pleasant tint. Which is why Richard does them this way now, never uses a solvent anymore. He does Hundreds (if not more)!
Edit: A pic showing results from gas de-doming… building a triple
Where do I find it?
On my box I can find the following numbers:
E-D05-B2-309
117876901
15.12.01
Thats one box, but I can’t find any matching numbers on Gearbest
When you go to webpage enter that number in search bar it will bring up the tint you purchased
117876901
(All 1 results)
117876-901 > 1A
117876-902 > 3C
117876-903 > 5A