I would like 2 in Neutral White
No chance this is coming in XPL HI?
…or even in factory deomed XM-L2? Any possibility of a factory dedomed LED inside?
Will current still be improved? Stock was measured around 4,5Amp, so will that number be raised?
And a puppy! It should definitely ship with a free puppy!
Seriously guys, please, no more spec changes.
PLEASE - No “Factory” De-Dome for me!
I hate that Green!
Please leave it like it is.
OTOH - Genuine Cree XP-L HI… Let’s Go!
There’s a Huge Difference.
Thank you,
-Chuck
To help clarify, when you take a tail current reading with a stock DMM, the leads are too thin to give accurate amperage readings. So the numbers are always low. If 12 ga leads are used instead, then a closer to true reading is given. So if I show 5A, it’s because I used a 12 ga loop and read it with a clamp meter that can do 40A. If you put a stock DMM with stock leads on the exact same set-up, you’re gonna be disappointed.
The numbers are the only thing that actually changes here, the light is still doing 5A, making 1200 lumens, but your DMM can’t read it. Hope that makes sense. Some (most) of the manufacturers and vendors that we deal with take a reading just like most of us would at home, with a DMM they pull off the shelf. Took me a long time to figure out why my current readings and output levels were so different from what I expected. 12ga leads got me in the right place, then my DMM was limited to 10A. With my clamp meter, I can read the big numbers, like the quad I just built that pulls over 21Amp from a single cell. Test that one with a DMM and something will go poof! I actually broke connection with the meter reading 21.30A and climbing. Scared me!
Anyway, now you know why GearBest or any of the others will say 3.8A when some of us are saying 4.6A or more. It’s the quality of the equipment giving a more accurate reading. Output of the light is not affected, similar to when you tell the cop your speedometer was showing exactly the speed limit and he writes the ticket for 10 over. 
Just because the gauge is wrong doesn’t mean you’re not doing the speed! lol
Correct…no chance. 
No factory dedoming…sorry.
This D80 sample is definitely improved over the last one, I used a 25R, 4.3A and it got somewhat uncomfortable in 6 min to hold, roasting in 10 min and between there and 15 min of use I wouldn’t hold it in contact with my hand without moving it every so often. At 18 min I could feel it start to cool, 22 min and it was definitely cooling off, 40 mins and it was dropping temperature enough that I turned it off worrying the battery was too low. This is kind of the user’s perspective I wanted to test and that running on turbo constantly was not really a problem for this light, which it wasn’t as long as there is hand (heat sink) contact. It was 74 degrees out, and if you did not move the light around in your hand as you walked you would feel the burn!
Remember here: my DMM is a crappy one, so its probably doing over 4.3A with a 25R, and you can FEEL the heat. Secondly, if you remember, I was one of the people not happy with getting low A readings with the X6, and I like hotrod lights, so if it were low, I’d say I’m unhappy and I’m not! If you haven’t ever had a light that outputs this much in a small package, you may want to actually use one first before saying it needs more A. I don’t mind, (I would go higher in an ideal world maybe) but I’m going to bet there will already be a few “ooh its too hot” complaints; you CANNOT run this one on turbo by itself unsupervised, or even un-hand-heatsinked for more than a short time.
We are talking about fixing the mode spacing I think and maybe the memory pretty much only at this point.
Now the mode memory… the 6s memory I prefer, I think its actually not a very bright idea to have it trigger on 2s since you can switch your memory accidentally with ease and really its not a problem to wait 4 more sec every once in a while. It feels like a definite “mountain out of a molehill” scenario here with 6 second memory, I dont know what to say… So maybe think about this for a bit and see what people think before changing it?
It definitely seems like a very bad idea to have just 2 sec on a mode be memorized if you care about keeping it always starting in moon and ever want to go through the modes…I think if people think about this for a bit, those who think its a problem just imagine going through modes on your light, won’t you accidentally be setting memory randomly each time you use more power or show someone your light, or let someone change the modes?? I know I would be, 2 sec memory will be annoying.
Let’s see…what else…seems like a great light in a small package and well worth $20, love the knurling, the feel, the heft in the hands, the aggressive heat shedding fins, the fact it heats up fast and the unique throwy beam pattern. I think most important is fix the mode spacing of the first 3 to about 50% reduction each, and its ready! Memory timing if people insist, but I have a feeling those who push for the short memory will actually later prefer longer once they realize showing off the modes/using the light in any other mode even for a couple seconds literally will change their default on level memory.
There are some signs we may be able to get another tint here besides 1A and 3C as well!
Remember guys, we are trying to wrap this one up not go crazy with options, its not as customized as the A6 no, I think we are getting spoiled by that one already. 
But its still a great light, in fact right now its the one I’m using nightly on my dogwalks now, its hard to justify using any other small light at the moment (except for maybe my custom triple in warm white…but no throwy beam!).
Please add one 3C for me. Thanks.
Factory-dedomes are no hulks, their tint is quite normal…
That´s what I´m talking about :bigsmile:
Ok…this is NOT meant as criticism, but-why not? I had the impression, this light should be kind of a pocket-thrower- a tiny one, put still a thrower, and it is “made” (planned? Developed?) by forum-“freaks” (meant in a positive way!). You guys normally dedome everything that emits light, and on modded lights with throwy character that´s what you do first
So I´m just wondering why not, I just kinda expected it. Not at the BLF manker A6, it´s another kind of light- but at this one.
Ok- I did not doubt the performance of the light or your work, in no way
I only read about the stated ~4 ampere stock…I thought, those were measurements from forum guys with the right equipment and the will not to take china numbers :bigsmile: for stock ~1000Lumen I took 4A stock as reasonable.
Well, this is not the typical “2000 lumen” type measurement, its pretty real I just did another walk for about 50 minutes with a Panasonic BD cell at 65 degree temps outside, it still got hot enough to be reasonably uncomfortable to hold the head for most, and the cell is spent at 44 minutes, so average A is on target with a full BD cell taking into consideration it will drop below 4A after the first 15 min or so.
The reason no dedome or XPL-Hi is this was always meant to be a very simple change to the D80 to make it a much better light as I understand it, not changing major parts, and they weren’t even wanting to add another tint selection at first even. LuckySun seems to be pretty slow responding to things, and trying to change the LED at this point may mean an after-xmas light…
In traditional BLF fashion, this (again) huge group buy thread comes with a staggering amount of numbers, but with oh so little pictures, just one in the OP which hardly does justice to this light. What convinced me finally joining this group buy was not so much the numbers (I trusted Krono and others doing a great job on that) but actually having a LS D80 in my hand and feel how compact it is (that was on a german TLF meeting).
So now several folks have a sample, which is as good as final, can we have pictures please, also with he light in hand to see the dimensions?
I’m sorry. - I may have been understood.
“Factory De-Dome” means that LuckySun would start with a Regular Cree Emitter, and then remove the dome, Exactly as you or I would do.
“Cree XP-L HI” means that the emitter NEVER had a dome to start with, and so the proper amount of phosphors are added to begin with to give the desired tint. - THEN the emitter is Binned for Tint and Flux. - This makes a HUGE Difference, as anyone that has seen a Green Olight “Factory De-Dome” can attest too.
Please see the difference here in the beamshots in post #4. - See that Green? - That’s a Olight Factory De-Dome, Not a XP-L HI “domeless” emitter. - The XP-L HI would be the White one:-)
Again - A Cree XP-L HI is NOT a Factory De-Dome! - It was made without a dome. - It Never had a dome to begin with.
“Factory De-Dome” means that the flashlight company has removed the dome - Not Cree. - Cree is Not in the business of removing their domes.
Sorry - But because of language differences I needed to be clear.
.
Now, having said this, I agree… We need to leave it like it is if it is going to cause trouble.
Of course, a change in offered tint to 3D from 3C would be Very welcome, but let’s just see what comes up.
Very sorry for the misunderstanding,
-Chuck
On my side. I was not knowing differences between factory dedomed and XP-L HI- I thought, the HIs are factory dedomed.
So yes, factory dedoming those samples for the forum SE would be too much work- so one mor quote for SP-L HI
Djozz,
I will try to get a couple of pictures of mine after work. You want in hand and maybe next to an X6 and a C8 for comparison purposes?
Factory de-dome is out of the question. LS, I’m quite sure, has never done this and I am not going to experiment with this light. Having them do so would also raise costs. Just de-dome it yourself…even I can do that
XP-L or XP-L Hi is not happening either. This emitter uses a different MCPCB, and we will not be getting more samples, so again, I will not experiment this close to production and take a chance on using a board/emitter combo we haven’t tested as a sample.
I also tend to agree w/B42. Unless we get a VERY compelling reason to change on-time memory from 6 to 2 seconds, we will probably leave as is.
The main thing we are working on now is mode spacing. We will see about what we can do to change that a little. But keep in mind…there are no more samples forthcoming…so we have to be sure we nail it BEFORE production…so this could be a little tricky. If we keep it the same, there is one good thing (B42 pointed out). The High, being close to Turbo, is near the same output, but with less drain on the battery. EcoTurbo? 8)
I’m sorry about this. I have been very busy at work, and with the other GBs. I will also try to get pics posted, but they are almost no different looking than the stock D80. The only outward difference is the BLF logo and slightly different tailcap.
Here is the listing on GearBest. . It is not available, but just a place-holder for when the D80-SE becomes live.
kronos
'EcoTurbo' is a great find, worthy of an entry in the next dictionary edition!, I almost wish to keep the current mode spacing in order to be able to use this word every now and then! :party: