GB Clone Offically "SOLD OUT" 10/21/18 XPL HI 1300LM Focusing AKA Cometa 2016

Okay i am tripper! The disc that holds the LED in place is the same on mine as the new ones!

Only difference is the grounding protection in the battery tube that sits over the pill and the tail cap is brighter on the newer Cometa’s .

This is the included 26650


Left side is the new Cometa and Right side is my original


I do have some tape on my original but my solders are flat so its not needed its more of a just in case


Vappower 5200mAh 20A 10A outline @ E-CigaretteForum

Related review: Imren Purple 22A 5500mAh 26650 Bench Test Results...only a 10A/5200mAh battery!

What are the above (plastic?) discs? Insulating discs for the cell's head with a hole for some protruding spring, cap or whatever in the driver? Why additional tape?

Cheers ^:)

Hmmmm, my 2 arrived today; charged the batteries and gave one a try (after ensuring no shorting issues) and after switching on briefly, it now no longer works.

Investigated and it seems that both springs have compressed, presumably from overheating :weary: the battery rattles back and forth due to no spring tension.

I will double check the potential shorting points, but suspect both springs are probably toast now; does anybody know a good source for replacements. that can handle a little current?

That’s the anodised aluminium front cover for the driver. the hole is for the LED to poke through. Additional tape is to stop the solder points on the LED scratching through the anodising and causing shorts.

So it begins……. :person_facepalming:

Wonder if they fixed the sloppy driver pocket?

BlueSwordM is running a group buy for Very High Current Beryllium Copper springs.

All the large springs are taken, but there are small springs left. (Don’t know what size is in this light.) I believe Blue Sword M said he may be ordering more large springs at some point.

But if you do not solve the shorting issue stronger springs are not the solution! Its like bridging a fuse with a massive copper bar. Now the spring has worked as a fuse and stopped the short. A bigger spring would allow higher current if you short it again.

The disc is what holds the LED in place. It is made from anodized aluminum and was causing shorts because of the bad soldering jobs on some lights.

Appreciate the advice, but I’m acutely aware that overcurrent has heated and ruined the springs; good to know they work as a crude protective device though, just need to source suitable replacements now.

Think I found the source of the short after disassembling the entire light in order that to reassemble, testing at every stage of disassembly and reassembly for shorts, I spotted a large split in the wire to the LED, right at the point where it bends through the pill:

Sleeved the split wire, reassembled everything (actually used some thermal paste as opposed to the sniff of the barmaids apron that was used originally), Kapton tape on the top of everything and it works again, to a fashion. Not sure if brainbox might’ve fried as it doesn’t seem to respond quite as it should, though the springs definitely need replacing before I can look into it further :slight_smile:

Aha, the holes in the pill for the wires have sharp edges too…
So basically this light has to be disassembled completely and all parts have to be checked and taken care of, and then you can reassemble the light.
Yeah, sounds like my hobby. :slight_smile:
I think the loose head can be fixed too by using fatter O-rings.
Looking forward to receiving this light.

Except for Emisars or BLF-Lights, that is what most of us do anyway, I guess :smiley:

From what I hear, the head on the Jaxman Z1 doesn’t rattle.

Ok, driver in my first one is seriously compromised; now only operates in 3 modes L/L/M - compared to the fully operating one.

Not sure I can be bothered with challenging BG over the issue, but wondered if anybody could point me to a good replacement driver that would work with this setup?

Don’t quite remember, but wasn’t it the A6 driver they were putting in these?

Actual driver boot is ∅22mm like Jaxman Z1, doesn't it? You could go Kaidomain's H2-C boost driver plus XHP35 HI. Sense resistor is 1206 imperial units, 75mV sense, thus add an R100 over the stock R050 for up to 2.25A driving current. More info here: Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy)

Cheers ^:)

No, I would not bother BG with issues with this one. We knew that this is the Cometa with known issues and we are getting them cheap because of that. See it as a wonderful host and that you have to look over every part to get it right.

As long as they’re not glued shut. :person_facepalming:

Its got the upgraded BLF driver from the X6 driver.

I was going to put an SST4O in mine but the hole is to small for the LED. So i will drill the hole out with a 5mm drill bit see how i go.

I’m amazed at you guyz
doing this all over again
at whatever price