[GB ended,discussion only] CRI > 80+ NICHIA 2000K-6500K [E21A/219B/219C/319A/144A/757GT-F1(Optisolis)]

Black Toraja or Aceh Gayo, that’s my coffee. Don’t mix em

Yeah I like to blend everything, coffee, beer, juice, cider, food, and apparently light. For me I really wanted a 3500k-4000k light with as much red as possible. I think I ended up with more red this way than I would have with just straight 4000k emitters. To each their own, more options are always better.

Clemence, will you be restocking the 219B SW45K R9080 at any point, or are they gone for good? Now that I have used a few they really are nice, heck, I’ve been happy with every Nichia of yours so far. Awesome to finally have tint choices in Nichia high CRI.

No, not now or in near future. Depleted by the MCPCB at the moment.
As soon as I can, I might include 219BT-V1 R9080. But the main goal is get the full 2000K-6500K R9080 E21A lineups, and of course all BBL binned (e or f) this time. E21A is the future IMHO

- Clemence

Look forward to trying them out with your new board. I tend to agree that better color and efficiency are the future, and E21A seems to have that.

Once boards are in stock I will be buying a bunch of them with the whole tint lineup. Interested in them for lantern and area lighting use.

Suggest you try the sw40 9080 still in stock

Seconding this. That may be my favorite emitter ever at this point. Its fantastic.

That’s 1 of the 4 in my quad, I also have a 219C SM4070e, which has more rosy color to my eyes, just less deep red, hence 9050 vs 9080. I have 6 more of the SW40s too, they will be seen again.

thanks for all the info

I eat all my desert first, then all the meat, all the veggies last… not a mixer, but some of my best friend are mixers :-), and I learn a lot from them

I confess Im presently playing with a pink filter on my golden nichia triple sm303… so the more I think about it, what you’re doing makes sense, even to me…:slight_smile:
Rock On!

also appreciate your detailed comment on the difference in red and pink in the e variant… all fun trivia for me

segue
re: VirEnce LED offerings… heres a repost of the binning of the sw45 (and sw40)

I have a couple sw40 coming, but now that I have that little yellow square in the forefront of my mind, I may have to apply some pressure to one of the sw45 hoarders I know… LOL

onwards!

Gratitude and respect to Clemence for making it possible for all of us to have so much fun

Do you think 16 pieces of E21 are possible to use with direct drive in the BLF Q8 Flashlight?
I downt know if the Vf is a bit too low for direct drive with 4 emitters per battery. Are they good if you overdrive them?

Based on Djozz’s test, the E21A was not a good performer above 2A with normal 119 board. I don’t know if the new board would squeeze more out of it. Djozz would validate this later when I received it. If you can run all 16 pcs in parallel, then it’s possible to input 32A. Or 8A in 4s4p.

Do you still have any 144A PCBs? Any compatible footprints?

Old VirEnce S3030 only, the first prototype for VR16S1 (fits E17, E21,119, 144, and 233) should be ready in 5 weeks time.

144A is closer to 5050 but without thermal pad I thought? I haven’t taken the one I bought out of the tape yet.

The 144A is 5050 and would be a great drop-in replacement for the XHP50 if only it had a thermal pad.

I have one with a Djozz board in a wrong-voltage Wizard Pro. It’s my most used light despite running at half power since the driver is current regulated for a 12V emitter. The light it produces is beautiful. There’s an interest list to get it put in to production (with the right voltage 144A).

I like the idea of downgrading the Wizards Pro to 6V. Should be much more efficient (less load to the boost driver). The turbo mode can be used as the highest mode safely. BTW Zak, how’s the moonlight? Is it still usable?

- Clemence

It runs for an hour on max on an HG2, makes about 850 lumens and won’t thermal throttle with modest fan cooling. The increased efficiency of boosting less seems to offset the decreased efficiency of the emitter. The lowest mode is very low indeed, but usable to avoid obstacles in absolute darkness.

Thanks for the info Zak.
Great,will mod all of my 3 Tiaras and 4 Wizards later. I finally sent the defective headlamps for replacement. Waited to almost two years because I didn’t want to get another defective replacement.

- Clemence

Today I had the time to sort pictures in my camera's SD card. Below are some nice shots I took during my last 1400km Java - Bali - Nusa Penida scooring trip.

Paiton Power Plant, Probolinggo, East Java. WB = 5600K

The biggest electric power plant in Indonesia. It's "only" capable of 815 Mega Watt a fraction of those in China or US. Low Pressure Sodium lighting used almost exclusively for outdoor for their ultra high efficacy, long life, and cheap investment. A night visit to Paiton could be a nightmare to remember for tint snobs. With negative CRI everything looks orange under LPS lights.

Pasir Putih Beach, East Java. WB = 5600K

No colour editing, it is what it is. A good natural example of above and below black body locus. Also to show you that both tint preferences do exist in nature. Cloud formation and humidity heavily affect the sunset/sunrise tint.

Mind the bad stitching, my hands were too shaky from riding (no tripod). WB = 5600K

Broken Beach, Nusa Penida, Bali

Clear hot sunny weather, looks like 6500+K (my camera set to 5600K)

Nichia NV4W144AM sm573 R9050 @15 watt, 60º TIR optics, WB = 5600K

Coconut everyone?

- Clemence

Thanks for the nice pics!

The last picture is really like it is taken outside in natural lighting. :slight_smile:

No it wasn't. Took it next to my work bench in the workshop.

Same location:

- Clemence