A camera is a bit different. The tripod mount is usually on the bottom, where you donāt see it, plus, oftentimes or always (for me) in a case, and if thatās the case, the screw actually attaches the case to the camera.
With the M6, that hole is just āout thereā to be seen. I actually thought it was the switch button when i first got the light :)ā¦
I know itās a heavy light, and I may be imagining it, but if you squeeze the battery tube, it kind of feels like the metal āgivesā. I didnāt try squeezing it really hard, for fear of denting it permanently, though.
Also, on the tube, on those sunken strips/channels, on mine, each one has a small white/silver āspotā at the front end of the channel. Iām not sure if it didnāt get anodized or what?
EDIT: I think that you can actually see those spots on the light on their web page:
Hereās a perfect solution. I just checked a pack of nylon license plate bolts that I got from Auto department store. (Oreileys I believe) You know, those rotating racks they have when you first enter the auto store? They just happen to be 1/4 x 20tpi and are marked on the pack as so. Perfect Solution.
And they are BLACK NYON. All you would have to do is hack saw one to length. Cheap and EZ.
Mine is the same. I read somewhere they flatten those āpointsā so your battery is not gouged when twisting and turning the battery case. Seems like they would do that before the anodizingā¦.dunno.
I don't know that I would trust it at all. If the batteries were in series, yes, but since they are in parallel, and it starts on high, I wouldn't trust it to provide any protection with only one battery. I guess with 2, or 3 it should be ok, but definitely risky with one.
I would be using a 1/4āā UNC Cadmium or chrome plated phillips head roofing screw in it. They have a very big head which looks like it would cover nearly all the polished area around the thread and the ones I use have a large phillips head and flat blade screw driver slots which would make removal or fitment easy even with a narrow coin. They also have a very short profile.
One of the LEDs in one of mine diedā¦ they are mounted on a triple star. Didnāt have a replacement XML T6 to solder on, so I am putting three XML2/T6/3Cās in it on 20mm noctigonsā¦ also one of my 3x3A custom SRK driversā¦ thermal adhesive is curing right nowā¦
Should do 2700-3000 real, honest, American lumensā¦
I removed the old driver, re-installed the driver retaining ring, and my driver sits on top of the retaining ring (with a piece of double-sided tape keeping it in place).
I decided to use the stock emitter plateā¦ the M6 reflector would short to the Noctigons and I did not want to mess with insulating it (plus the wire thickness would cause the reflector to sit a little high). Iām going to use XML2 U2ās on it (or U3ās if I can find them)ā¦ oh well, bye-bye to nice tintsā¦
The wires connect to the stock emitter plate near the edge where the reflector canāt get to them.