With Firefox, it’s OK.
“My Account”“My Tickets”>“Check my tickets >>”Email or Ticket:” If you put email address it display all tickets
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Hi Gearbest,
Yes! - I too want a Blue Convoy S2+ with a XM-L2 1A emitter, please.
Thank you,
-Chuck
ww - got that working in IE as well, as long as I get into the site through a direct link and not the homepage.
Never noticed the "email" option before - weird because I'm logged in. So double entry of email gets you list, cool! I found all my inaccessible tickets this way! Thanks antiparanoico!!
It's listed as having a stainless steel bezel - is that correct? It doesn't look like SS in the pictures.
Is that pricing a mistake? If not, that is pretty dang impressive for a Nightcore.
I got the T43 in from GearBest - be careful with this one. Lots of hype. It's cheapened down, no more stainless steel - the bezel is aluminum. Can be a nightmare to mod - there is a little see-thru window below the switch that has a plastic c-thru plug in it (to see green/red statuses) that prevents you from removing the threaded body. The bezel, though now made from aluminum, still has the same awful threading quality the original T08 has - threads don't match up well, not many threads, etc. On mine, the body tube thread to the pill/head was glued - I was able to crack it open, found out you can simply push in the c-thru plastic piece that was blocking the unthreading, then when I went to unscrew the body - really bad cross-threading - could not get it to un-screw clean. Forced it with piles of aluminum dust coming out. Now I have it apart but with little threading left. If I mod this one, I'd have to probably epoxy it together, or maybe try alum or copper tape, dunno yet - it's pretty bad.
Keeping it pure stock, you won't have or see these issues. But stock, it has a pretty poor tail assembly that has high resistance - two long spring for each cell, and a P60-like spring below that for allowing the cell negative contacts to spin around on a PC board - the P60 size spring is the electrical contact between the tail PC board and the body.
I don't know why, but they continued on the poor threading from model to model.
Thanks antiparanoico, now I can see all of my tickets 
Sharp Eagle ZQ ( 16340)
Hardly the claimed “World’s Most Compact”.
Size is listed as 90mm long
And 600 lumens from 16340? Maybe, but Not for long….
Hype is one thing, but out-right lying is fraud. For this <$8 light: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_44313.html, it's listed as having a SS bezel. So I opened a ticket about the error and my disappointment. GearBest's answer: how bout $2 off? I don't really care about the money, I just wanted them to fix the listed spec - they simply would not answer me on that question - totally ignored the issue.
I, as most have, got used to the mis-information about lumens, and can understand the confusion between copper and brass, but aluminum vs. stainless steel? Or plastic vs. aluminum reflectors? There is no excuse. Also there is no excuse to advertise CREE XP-L when it actually is chinese manufactured inferior LED's. The advertised specs are always superior to what it actually is.
I recently purchased the red version of the Cree XM – L2 T6 2400lm Diving Flashlight When it was up for offer a few months ago.
Is it normal for the batteries to drain on them after a few days? I wondered if the magnetic switch keeps a certain amount of current flowing even when not in use.
Well, a mag switch is really working like an e-switch, so depending on the driver design, there will be parasitic drain. Sounds like your light may have a fairly high parasitic drain unfortunately. Some guys here know how to measure it - I don't, but I know with our custom firmware we are using now on the ATTiny13A MCU drivers, we ensure the parasitic drain is as low as we can get. Pretty sure typical run time is in the months on standby. Always good to have a "lockout" feature in the light. For those lights that do, a slight twist of the tailcap will break the connection and eliminate parasitic drain. Lights like the ZY-T11 clones have this feature, as well as the SupFire M6 (ultimate soup can), etc. That's why these two lights are on the top of my all time favorite list of lights to mod 
. Also up there are lights like the Warsun X60, Yezl Y3, or pretty much any light with a side e-switch that also has a tail-switch that cuts off power -- works same way as the "lockout".
For dive lights, I recall reading here on BLF a diver saying he always re-lubes the threaded connections on his dive lights after each day of use. If you do that, then might as well pull the batteries between uses as well, or at least remove the tailcap.
Don't quote me as recommending this light, but back on topic, this light: gearbest.com Sharp Eagle - Warsun look-alike looks outstanding at that price. It appears to be a re-branded Warsun X60 for $20 - great deal, potentially, if it's the real thing.
GearBest - you guys should be informing us of this deal for sure...
+1
Also would be just a little worried that if they can't get the power-button aligned straight on the photo-shoot sample, then what hope do we have for a good example? Plus even the surround looks a bit dinged...
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Hey, a question for Gearbest — you’ve in the past offered “Sharp Eagle” brand flashlights.
Is there actually a “Sharp Eagle” company that makes those, and could you put us in touch with someone who can answer this?
How to take THIS ONE apart to get to the emitter, to modify it?
(GearBest sells that one: http://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_193397.html )
I ask because GearBest has been more responsive than any other supplier to actually getting information to and from the people who make various flashlights.