It’s ugly conditions over there: http://www.reuters.com/article/2015/08/09/us-china-economy-inflation-idUSKCN0QE01720150809
I will test my 30Q again now, last result I got on Lii500 was 2803 actual mAh. Now testing on one of my brand new BT-C3100s. Running the usual @1A program.
But 2800mAh for a 3000mAh battery is within the limit, with inexpensive testing chargers? And since the battery has a cutoff V @ 2.5V, my chargers can’t go so far down. They stop at 2.8V. So I think the battery is the real deal.
I’m more worried about high-amp performance than capacity. Do you have a FET driven light you can try it in?
Think 30Q is supposed to be a high drain cell, that is, discharge at 5A, for example, without much drop in voltage. Can you run 30Q in your brightest flashlight and see if brightness is maintained?
1) Gearbest has massive translation problems, just like the majority of these Chinese sellers, reading the info and questions and answers can be highly amusing or sadly frustrating as the ill-equipped to translate staff get all kinds of questions partially or fully wrong. So to deal with them, you have to realize this.
2) Many of these companies do have some false/bad products, which if you buy from them, you learn to use the tools you have to get compensation for the bad products or take a loss from them if you can’t, its part of the online gamble dealing with foreign companies. Its up to you to decide if its worth taking the gamble. If a company keeps doing this and getting people asking for refunds, Paypal will increase their fees or not work with them anymore, an incentive to keep online companies a little more honest.
3) A sale does not mean something is wrong with the item, its up to you to take your best guess and assume the reason, then act on it accordingly. The item could be listed at the wrong price (has happened before and I have gotten deals this way), it could be fake (has happened before to me), it could be a loss leader for something else, another group buy special price for an ecig group or company that got listed for everyone by mistake (has happened before), it could be the person who posted he asked for a deal from them who got the price (again could be employee mis-pricing them accidentally, or accidentally revealing how much profit most make on these batteries), it could be a huge stock of these batteries they got from a company collapsing and selling stock, or want to get rid of them for something else, or any number of reasons. The problem is you can’t know, you can only assume based on information you have, and if you ask their CS department you are likely to get a mis-translated answer which likely wont give you the real answer EVEN if they actually translated correctly AND they actually know the reason or not… so roll the dice or don’t, but I don’t think a decision to roll the dice is irresponsible unless you think every purchase from this kind of companies is…
4) I have purchased OK items and good items from Gearbest in the past, I feel they are just as likely as any of the other Chinese companies to have a good item, and they have refunded me when I had fake items without Paypal. So I rolled the dice. I will test the batteries too, and I will ask for a refund if they have passed off fakes unknowingly/knowingly.
I have no way of knowing just like you all don’t, remember the old “to assume makes an ass of u and me” 
So really I think the most useful thing to do is get those here who get them to test them to see if they are real first…going on some info is better than an assumption.
What of the following flashlights is best:
Convoy S2+ 7135*8 T6-4C
Convoy S2+ 7135*8 T5-5B
Eagle Eye X6 Cree XM L2 U2 1A
Sunwayman G25C Cree XM L2 U2
It’s the only ones I have that is not fake ones from Ebay. Or that is using 18650. I have some 26650 lights:
Shadow JM35 (can use only one battery I think)
Warsun “2000LM” (maybe 1000?) CREE XM-L2 X60
Since those lights don’t use high Amps (Convoys@ 2.8A for example), you shouldnt be able to detect difference from a standard good battery. Even if you had high drain lights, unless you have two of the same tints, its going to be hard to tell any difference between them by eye anyways…you need a high powered light that draws above 5A to tell much of any difference really, the only other way with what you have is to drain them for a while. If you had two of the same tinted Convoys and ran them continuously on high for 15mins to 30 mins, you may be able to see a difference…as the voltage drops, the high drain 30Qs should be able to keep up A output better through time to the end of run time than standard Samsungs, but it really doesnt prove anything.
Ok, I have more then one of the red S2+ T6-4C tint. Can run a test tomorrow (it’s bed time now) with the 30Q and
a) Samsung ICR18650-30B - 3000mAh or
b) Panasonic NCR18650BE - 3200mAh
c) Panasonic NCR18650B - 3400mAh
d) Sanyo NCR18650GA - 3500mAh - 10A
e) LG MJ1 - 3500mAh - 10A
What will give the best result in this test?
IF the Convoys are the same tint and IF they are running at the same A, the closest in capacity should be the Samsung ICR18650-30B @ 3000mAh since the 30Qs are supposed to be 3000mAh. If you start the test this way and the above is correct and the capacities of the batteries are very similar, you THEORETICALLY should be able to detect a REAL 30Q as slightly brighter near the end of run time as the batteries get tired…but when this point is, whether you can visually see it are really unknowns. Let alone the fact I do not know how long the 30B maintains a 2.8A discharge. Best bet would be to select a cell you can compare on HJK’s comparator and look at what time the drop should occur and observe at that point. Remember though, your Convoys are going to get uncomfortably hot in this run @ 2.8A in any case, and that this whole test is a crude approximation which may not give any usable results with so many unknowns, and proves nothing…but it may be fun
- interesting, @ (at symbol) changes the font here, the changes in font and bolding above are due to the symbol, bolding and font changes are not done on purpose in the above.
Don’t do it Ken.
It will tell you nothing, and is not worth the risk to your lights.
-Chuck
I will not damage the S2+ on this test? This is flashlights that is real (not fakes) and I’m planning to sell them. So if they get damaged, or any signs of wear on them after a test like that, I can’t do it. Selling them as new (because they are brand new )
Ok, you did reply on my question before I asked it. LOL
Ha. Well it shouldn’t be a risk as long as you keep them in a heat sink (such as your hand) or monitor the temperature. But, yes it will only give you a good guess if anything at all, and doesn’t prove a thing, I was really attempting to impress how difficult it would be to even detect without the right equipment.
Only do it for fun! And dont run the batteries down past the low voltage warnings either…
I assumed and forgot to include that one would only do this with a heat sink (such as your hand), since 2.8A in a Convoy will get it very hot if left on high for that long without a heatsink or cold weather, it is perfectly safe that way, I have run Convoys at 2.8A continuous to dimming output many times. But if you are selling them, you shouldn’t be using them in any case.
I have 13 of them coming from GB the next weeks, so I’m interested in this thread. But I do not want risk my lights, for thats almost $100 I’m selling them for ($45 each, with a 2600 battery and a charger).
But think I just will follow this thread to see if anybody gets some results. Since I have no way to test it’s actual A, I’m just guessing that they are real, because of the mAh. If they would sell a fake battery, why not do it like the 5000mAh 18650 battery they have? Put a crappy battery in a “good wrapping”.
Don’t know if it has anything to say, but since I got the battery, it has just been laying in a plastic box, and the voltage was now on 4.15V after around 2.5 weeks.
Ken, what was the Voltage say 1 hour after removed from charger?
4.20V
The voltage loss after 2.5/52 seems a bit high, But it could be OK.
Keep monitoring their voltage.
I think most people overreact by now. I tested my uf-1504 with DD xp-g2 s4.
I compared my gearbest LG he2, Panasonic 2900pf with a keeppower imr 4200 and imr 2500.
I got ~4A with all imr-batteries and ~3.3 with the panas. So I’m just thinking that somehow gearbest sells cheap batteries for now. We’ve seen wallbuys and fasttech sell batteries at great prices for a while earlier, but then adjust the prices upwards.
And since the 30Q battery has been tested for the capacity, I’m thinking of buying a couple of them…
Latest test results on my Opus BT-C3100 v2.2 is 2967 mAh @1A - so there is nothing wrong with the capacity.
Ken,
How hard would it be to get that white GB sticker off? - Looks like it wants to come off by itself:-)
I hate stickers like that placed on anything.
Anyone ever tried to do any PVC plumbing with fittings from a home improvement store? - Agg! - A damn sticked on each fitting:-(
-Chuck