Getting ready for my first mod - advice for a C8 - UPDATE: Big success!

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Hi all,
Thanks to this den of addicts helpful support group, I think I’m ready to start my first mod. I have most parts on hand, and a ready host in my stock Thorfire C8s. I’m happy with the build quality and throwing intensity of this light, but the tint is pretty cold for my liking, and there’s a slightly annoying ring around the very outside of the spill. I also wouldn’t mind if the hotspot were a little bigger, even if I have to sacrifice some lux/throw. (I realize these lights were designed to be throwers, and I like checking out the far side of the field behind my house, but I’m not looking to create a pencil beam.) Finally, I’m ready to start playing with something!
Ultimate goal is to get this light to a good neutral-warm tint, as bright as possible, without narrowing the current hotspot.

To that end, I’ve purchased a few goodies:

  • Qlite Rev.A 3.04A 8*7135 driver with Guppydrv from RMM
  • BLF A6 driver from Banggood (not delivered yet)
  • XM-L2 T6 3B
  • Nichia 219c
  • Spring bypass “gootwick”
  • 20ga silicone wire
  • AR coated glass, C8 OP reflector

My questions:

  1. Are there any combinations of emitter + driver that I should avoid, or should I just mix & match until I’m happy? From what I can tell, both the XM-L2 and 219c are happy with plenty of amps, so both drivers should be “compatible” with either emitter, and I’m not in danger of pushing too many amps. Am I missing anything there? (FWIW - most of my 18650’s are old laptop pulls, but I’ve recently picked up a Panasonic NCR18650PF and a Samsung 26F, both from RMM, for potentially higher outputs.)
  2. Does it matter what order I do mods? I.e. is it important to do a spring bypass or replace any wires before adding a more powerful driver?
  3. Anything I’m missing, or should I just jump in? Pretty sure I know the answer to this one ( :wink: ), but I thought I’d check to be sure I’m not making any rookie mistakes that are going to fry something right off the bat. :~

TIA!

(Edit: Leftover parts aren’t a problem - I have a Thrunite Neutron 2A that needs a new emitter, a small 4xAA lantern with a tint that’s way too cool, and a few other ideas…)

2

The Nicia 219C has a fairly low forward voltage. I have been told that a DD FET may not be the best choice for it… That does not mean that there are not folks out there doing just that. I have built a few C8’s and so far my favorite config for a light that is not meant to be a pure thrower is a FET driver, with A6 firmware, a good ML mode (I know boo’s are coming my way) and an XM-L2 2C mounted on a Noctigon. Braid your tail cap, replace the driver spring with a brass button and away you go. You should see 4.2 + amps on a good build and will have a crap load of light on high! For my general builds, I also like to use a light orange peel reflector. I find that it makes most rings disappear, maybe not the one from the somewhat long bezel.

Have fun! Matt

3

The 219C, being a smaller emitter than stock will give you a smaller hot spot, just what you said you didn’t want :frowning:

Sorry,
-Chuck

4

No need to be sorry! This is what I’m trying to learn. I’m sure the neutral XM-L2 will be a tint improvement over stock, and the 219c will be appreciated elsewhere.
Will an OP reflector affect hotspot size?
Thanks!

5

Yes, it will affect the size to some degree. It will also cause the hot spot to blend out a little more and will increase the width of the beam. The OP bounces more light around inside of the reflector as it hits the small bumps, it eventually makes it out the front but not on exactly the same path as the rest of the light. A SMO reflector tries to push all of the light straight out the front, if the light is focused well it can shove a lot of light into a very small hotspot.

With an XM-L2 I tend to like the OP reflector, but it is personal preference. You need to build a couple and get the feel for what they do.

This is a very cost effective C8 and they have a good selection of reflectors for it, from OP and SMO for XM-L and a SMO for XP-G sized dies. The host is very well made and the parts selection on the site is very good… You can pick up a couple of empty pills or reasonably priced brass pills with LED and a driver, the drivers are replacement fodder but they will be good enough to compare beams with different configurations. Not long ago, I started down the C8 rat hole with one of these lights. I do own Convoy’s as well, but they are integrated shelf and a little more difficult to build. I do not own an XTinD, maybe some day. I do have a reflector for one. :slight_smile:

I like Qlite drivers, they are so well regulated and very even through out the discharge cycle. They also do not place as high a demand upon your battery.

$10 KD C8

Couple of reflectors:
SMO 1
SMO 2

Notice the base difference, one is XM-L and one is XP-G.

If you decide to go that route, user BanL on our site can guide you to correct parts for the light.

Matt

6

Finally got around to doing this mod last night, and I would say it was an unqualified success! I even had fun. :slight_smile: My C8 is brighter, has a pleasantly neutral tint, has a bigger hotspot, has a more gradual transition from hotspot to spill, and lost the annoying ring around the outside of the spill. I completely accomplished all my goals for this light. :smiley:

I used an XM-L2 T6 3B on an aluminum star, the Qlite 3.04A w/ Guppydrive from RMM, a light OP reflector, AR glass, and braided the tailspring. Amp readings at the tail went from ~1.9 to ~2.9 (this is with stock leads on a free HF multimeter, so definitely not very accurate, but the increase was measurable).
I don’t have a good light meter, but measuring reflection off a white wall with my smartphone lux meter, readings on high increased from ~200 (stock) to ~260 (post-mod). These are merely arbitrary numbers, but they seem to do a good job quantifying the relative light levels before & after the mod.

One minor question/concern: after wiring up the emitter & driver, and putting the pill back into the head, I went to tighten the retaining ring to secure the driver. Tightening this ring kept twisting the driver, even when I tried to hold onto it. Twisting the driver would obviously twist the wires to the emitter, which would eventually put a lot of strain on them… Is there any way around this? Pre-twist the driver in the opposite direction, so it “untwists” itself when I tighten the ring?

A few random pictures: (headings above pic)

New emitter, with plenty of thermal goop

Driver, before securing in pill

Braiding the tail spring. Did I let too much wick up into the base of the braid? Is that a problem?

The obligatory beamshot! (Admittedly not too helpful without a “before”, but at least you can see the lack of a ring around the outside of the spill?)

7

You have done a nice upgrade there. The soldering looks orsm as well. Does the spring compress without interference from the solder wick?

8

Congrats on your success, and that beam profile looks highly usable where many don’t- a good balance!

Phil

9

That is a great upgrade, good job on the selection and work!

How do you like the guppydrv? I believe mode 10 has four modes with Moon-L-M-Turbo, so that will be a good one to set…

10

Great job! First mods are always so fulfilling.
There’s nothing so rewarding as clicking the switch…and light comes out the other end.

11

Nice work. Lovely looking beam you got there.

Yep.

12

Great solder job. Open the DOOR the C8 wants OUT :smiley: