My LG HG2 I think (brown) is at 75 milli ohms. Full charge though. If that matters
So the case is closed, so to speak .
So I got bad cells? I’m still pretty new to the differences especially the ohms. That’s very new to me. Only reason I knew about that is because of the charger and I asked David on here.
Your cells might be still be all good, but the way the button tops are installed perhaps not by solder but only held by the plastic wrapper (I am not sure which way yours are though) are what increases the IR well beyond the normal acceptable level of less 80, and does have a direct bearing on charging rate, and charged capacity, resulting to diminished discharge capacity.
Does look like it’s held on by the wrapper but I’m not sure. Should I message Richard on here and let him know about this problem? I think he goes by RMM?
Didn’t see this post till just now and it looks like my button top 30Qs are held on by the wrapper with the button top picture on the left. This blows!
Take the bottom tops off if they are just held by the wrapper. Cut the clear wrapper and remove it. And cells back to factory spec. The cells are fine new cells. All button top and protected cells the ir is much high then unprotected. Easy fix if you need button top, remove the ones on there and use solder blobs
Top left nipple is what I have.
I don’t have a solder iron so I can’t do that. I haven’t soldered since high school (2005).
Well they do make some magnets you can put on top of the cells. Or if they power the light they way they should be let them be. On some lights that require button tops like the haikelite, mf01/mf02, q8 etc you can pop the little tabs off the positive end of the battery carriers. They are just barely glued in. Then you can use unprotected cells with no problem
I got ahold of rich and he said it was the charger. Used my D4’s and they charged up just fine. Slower but it worked. Thanks for the help guys. Much appreciated.
I get very similar results with my C4-12 and the same 30Q button top cells from Richard. Unfortunately, the IR testing feature in this charger is quite inconsistent, at least on some cells. I’ve observed IR as low as 52 and as high as 646 with these cells, and that’s on fully charged cells. If you check it on depleted cells, it’ll be even more inconsistent. See my full review for more details: [REVIEW] MiBoxer C4-12 Charger
It’s not that simple. If the button tops themselves are not spot welded to the battery, then they should have a metal piece under them that is spot welded.
This is a 30Q button top I got from Banggood about 6 months ago. These measure between 40 and 50 milliohms on my C4-12.
It seems a bit odd that his reads so much higher. Is it possible that his button tops don’t have the spot welded piece under the button?
I’m wondering about the other strange readings he got. Why would it say 49% charge if it was at 4.2v? Maybe a faulty reading due to an overly high resistance reading?
(Keep in mind that the full charge rate of 1.5A is only used when the battery is low on charge. As voltage goes up, the charge rate tapers off)
I got ahold of Richard and he said that my cells are fine and are spot welded.
All I know is I paid 50 bucks for that charger for it to be a piece of junk it seems. It’s frustrating.
I don’t want to take batteries apart or use magnets. I just want to know why my numbers and volts are all so messed up with that charger. Seems like it’s not really what it’s said to be. For mine at least.
My cells were at 40% when I set the charge rate to 1.5A. That’s low enough right?
Any idea how the D4 charger charges the 30Qs?
I’ve used that (2 in each D4) but I’m not sure if that’s a better way to go or what not.
That 40% is the your cell’s ‘state of charge’ when you started the charging process.
You seem to be over reacting. If it’s not reading the internal resistance accurately it’s no big deal. Just set your charge rate manually. (This is what I do. I set my 26650 to 3A and my 18650 and 26350 to 1A. I might set my 30Q’s a bit higher, like 2A.)
Start with 4 identical cells at 4.2v, use them in the Q8 until they run down a bit, then check to make sure they are all at the same voltage. This is where it’s handy to have a cheap digital multi meter. If one of the batteries are not the same, it might not be making good contact in the Q8. Assuming they all gave good contact, they will all run down equally.
You can check each ones voltage in the same charger slot. Is maybe slot #3 giving you a lower voltage reading? A few people have had a problem with slot #3 for some reason.
If you think the charger is malfunctioning you can always send it back if you got it on Amazon. If you got it from overseas then you might need to contact Leomiboxer and show him what it’s doing. It always helpful to make a video showing you putting the cells in and seeing what the readings show. If it seems it’s a bad charger, he will probably send you a new one.
You can’t let little stuff like this ruin your day. Lol
I know. I was meaning to ask if when I started the 1.5A charge rate with the cells state of charge, would the charge rate drop down to them super low levels like they were doing? .10A, .25A etc…?
I probably am overreacting sorry. I’m just getting confused with this ohms thing from different people (I was told I shouldn’t go over 400 by a member on here a while ago). So 999 600 whatever doesn’t matter really?
What volts should I run the cells down to? And where do I go to get a cheap multi meter?