Finally I got the Convoy C8 I orderd - a it’s absolute amazing.
Best flashlight I’ve ever seen!
I think it’s even britgher then I need,
And it’s actually bigger and heavier then I thought.
Anyway, I have 2 problems -
I can live with 3 modes instead of 1, especially with the 2 second memory feature,
But what will happen if I’ll buy pressure switch?
Will it change mode every press?
2. My 18650 batteries are naked, so I wrapped one of them with shrink tube I had.
Unfortunately, it’s too thick now.
Can someone link me to shrink tube that will fit for sure?
Unfortunately, a pressure switch just acts like a Momentary-ON with no clicky. If you’ll experiment by cycling power at some rate, you can see how long you’ll have to leave it on for the mode not to change. That’s how long you’ll need to hold your pressure switch down, if you don’t want to change modes. Trying to visualize, by the time you’ve identified the target, aligned the sights & discharged the round, you’d probably not cycle modes anyway. And if recoil bounces the battery off its connections, letting go of the pressure switch at that moment would actually preserve the mode (although likely the next mode unfortunately). Of course that’s assuming you’re not going to use it on anything close enough to be dangerous (remember, Light draws Fire)…
Sorry, if it were me, I’d get better batteries. But you could try re-heating the tubing you have now. Sometimes it will shrink a little more with more heat. You could also disassemble the C8, spray a heavy coat of Latex paint on the inside of the battery tube, and when that dries you could use “naked” batteries as the paint would insulate it electrically. Or just go make friends with the local laptop repair guy & get a dozen or so free 18650s you don’t have to wrap.
To put it simply, it looks like, without having to remove the driver, to convert a 105c to Single Mode, the absolute easiest thing to do is solder a jumper between LED+ and VDD (RH pin of the 7135) at this point:
(Full disclosure, I haven’t actually tested this, except by accident; but the circuit is pretty simple…)
But I would assume you’d be changing your battery out after every shift… You’ll see how long it lasts during training. If you’re in the Firefight of your Life, you’ll notice it getting dim before the battery gets too low (maybe you’ll kill a battery, maybe that won’t matter) & thereby know it’s time to retreat to cover & replace the battery.
The assumption that you’ll be using this during a Lethal Force encounter changes some of our “usual” battery-management rules…
(thinking about it, you may want to get in the habit of putting something you can feel on each battery (in the dark, while he11 is crashing down around you) so you’ll know which end goes in first… Maybe a piece of tape around one end?)
Okay (sorry for time between posts.),
So the protection is for the battery?
Because I don’t care if 1 battery accdianlty die,
But I do care about the flashlight.
Anyway, I want to make it always 100%,
But I prefer to do it non permanent.
Is it possible?
And last thing, I need a recommend for pressure switch.
Not expensive one…
Fine.
Now, what will happen if I’ll not notice the the flashlight dims and the voltage will go too low?
and if I’ll choost to “reprogram” the driver to 1 mode (like I’ve been told I can do),
how do I do it/where can I find someone who able to do this for me?
I feel like I already spent too much on this flashlight instead buying the wf-501b…
(which comes with 1 mode and pressure switch at the same price,
And his size is more comfortable for me.)
Not much. Your worst-case scenario is, you’ll discharge a battery to less than 2vDC and maybe you’ll have to throw that battery away.
Your charger might be made so it refuses to recharge one if the voltage is too low, but the cheapest chargers don’t seem to care.
Yes. It’s explicitly made for the C8. Any of the pressure switches for a 501, 502, etc. can be disassembled and the switch plate, cable and pressure pad can then be swapped into your tailcap.
Look into your tailcap. See the spring? See the plate (circuit board) the spring is soldered to? Look around the edges & you’ll probably notice a retaining ring of brass or Aluminum which will have two wee dimples in it. Get some hemostats or fine-tipped needle-nose pliers to put in those dimples & simply unscrew it. The guts of the tailcap will come out when that retaining ring is removed. Make sure the retaining rings stay with the tailcaps they came with, but the guts should Lego without any problem. Easy-peasy.
His size may be more comfortable for you, but you’re shopping for your rifle. The C8 will work better with your scope, unless you have one of those silly 1x “scopes” like on the Steyr AUG, etc. It sounds like you may have some magnification, which means the extra throw of the C8’s large head would suit your sighting system better at likely target ranges.
Speaking of targets, I like you so I must remind you:
“Light Draws Fire”.
I personally chose a 1x illuminated reticle for darkness, but YMMV.
I know, that’s why I don’t buy another one and sell/give away the C8.
I just opened the tailcap and it’s really simple, buy for 3-4$ I prefer buying another one.
Now I just need my C8 to be 1 mode, and I want to know how to program that.
Can this be done with arduino?
