Thanks toysareforboys.
It looks like it is not consuming that much then, a better driver should improve it.
Have a nice sleep.
I see it turned out pretty decent. Good job! I hope this inspires you to start modding lights and i think you will end up doing good jobs. Many cheap flashlights needs tinkering before showing their true potenital.
If i may add, a matte black is reccomended vs shiny one. It seems you got a rather shiny one. Be sure to clean aluminium throughly everytime you paint it since it doesent like to stick paint much. And residual greasy stuff or impurities would make the paint job much harder.
I might get one for myself also. It's rahter beefy internals has sold me.
Have you checked how good the emitter is contacting the pill? If there is any goop under? Might have a great impact in longevity and help reduce sag to minimal.
I love this thread. Jamie is very helpful and takes great pics. :)
I love the paint job, and looking forward to more details, what yavi asked.
Keygos M12 is getting more and more interesting by the hour.
Every time I use this flashlight, it impresses me more and more. I just did the bream spread tests, and even in my fully lit basement (very bright, pool table, ping pong table, etc.) it just blew my mind!
I will edit this post and update it with the answers to the other questions asked. For now I have:
In flood mode: 1m from wall = beam diameter of 1.12m (58 degree beam spread)
In zoom mode: The "tight" bright white square of light = 10cm x 10cm, including the unfocused bleed on the edges when shooting this close, 14cm x 14cm
I cranked up the exposure so you can see the outer "ring" as well as the spill:
In real life it looks like this: *you might have to turn your monitor brightness up to see it*
I was using high temp flat black BBQ paint, but I do agree, it’s not as flat as it could be. After 1 coat it looked really flat, but after three coats it got kinda shiny. I always clean with 99% rubbing alcohol, and if the surface is polished or clear coated I sand it with some 420 grit wet sand paper. I’m a flashlight noob so no idea how to get the emitter out of the pill. I must say it’s assembled very poorly. It’s like the emitter was pressed in there crooked, this caused the reflector to get dented and not be centered to the LED, etc. If you can provide me info on how to get the emitter out I’ll take a peek. I have lots of super good quality thermal compound from building computers 
I dropped in a freshly charged (4.18v) battery and the current draw was only 1.01 amps?? Wacky! I love how NOT HOT this flashlight gets on extended runtimes, compared to my SC600w and my Fenix TK-11 How hard can you drive an emitter like this? 1.5amps??
-Jamie M.
Thanks for the shots!
You are going to make me buy this thing... 
It's an XM-L, you can safely drive that at 2.8-3A, but it WILL get hot at those currents. M12 seems to have decent cooling, but I wouldn't go over say 2-2.5A, to keep it as safe and cool as possible but still with quite increased output than on 1.1A.
Viktor
Edit:
Here are the specs for XM-L: http://flashlight-wiki.com/Cree#XM-L
Feel free to browse that article and the rest of the wiki. Loads of useful info there.
that's a tough question - but in a very ideal situation (better heatsinking than in most flashlights), over 4 amps to the emitter
if I owned that light (m12), and I probably will, thanks to the info you've provided, I would probably change the driver to a 3 mode w/ hi of 2.4 to 2.8A to the emitter...
I have a thrower w/ good heatsinking that is >4A but I never have that on for very long. The M12 I'm sure I'll do very long runs w/ it on hi, and like you don't want it to be hot in my hand
That link is great! Looks like 3amps is the sweet spot, over that you’re just adding heat/killing run time for not much increase in brightness
You've given me the motovation to disassemble my perfectly clean assembled flashlights and measure the driver diameter :)
EDIT: The driver diameter is 20mm :) Got some links to a 3 mode 3 amp driver I can put in it?!? :)
Ohhh, sexy. 3amp 5 mode driver, but it says 17mm?! http://www.lck-led.com/p846/Constant-Current-LED-Driver-Board---5-Mode,-3.3-4.5V-Max.-3.0A/product_info.html
-Jamie M.
Most are 17mm, which should not be difficult to adapt, the one I am using most, and I would recommend you as it advises of low battery (when it reaches 3V) as the 26650 you are using is not protected, it is a good feature..
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020073
Yo can get the mode configuration you want soldering it.
from the looks of the pictures (BTW: My screen tastes like dusty 1 year old MTB bike tires with a hint of playboy calendar - who would have known? )
And a thank you for giving all the info on this light! That is cool!
I like the light so much but I must resist ( I have a resisting habit. But it is out of order lateæy - been trying to get it to kick in LOL )
I cant wait for some links to outside beamshots in high res to lick! LOL
OMG sexy!!!
That sounds EXACTLY like what I want! A firefly low, and mind blowing high WOOT!
-Jamie M.
If you plan to ever run that high mode longer than 3-5 minutes with the 3A driver, the flashlight will get TOO hot for your taste, trust me.
I'd rather order the 2.3A version: http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020064
With that one you will be able to run high for much longer and it won't get too hot.
I have an XM-L flashlight whose body is simply too small to radiate all the heat generated at 2.8A, and after about 5 minutes it gets so hot that it's uncomfortable to hold. If I left it running longer, it would certainly exceed Li-Ion recommended/safety temperature range (I think it's about 60°C).
Viktor
Have you ever seen this guys LED driver boards? http://www.taskled.com/techlflex.html
Makes em in 20mm, and any current level you want (up to 3.5 amps). Fully programmable user interface, single sided PCB for great heatsinking, etc. Looks like a great solution!
*EDIT: Looks like you need to run a separate switch to run that driverboard. You can't use power on/off to change modes, etc. Looks like for use with a digital switch.
-Jamie M.
I don't doubt that it might be one of the best drivers available, but it's too expensive for my taste:
http://www.taskled.com/order.html <-- LFlex V3 = $25
Also, don't mix up the width of the emitter board with the width of the driver board. You said your emitter was 20mm, take a good measure of the driver itself.
Feel free to post pictures of measurements. ;)
Viktor
I just measured the opening at the back of the pill where the battery terminal is. How do I get the driver out? Looks like it’s soldered or pressed in?? http://likestuff.globat.com/FlashlightStuff/LensSize_L.jpg
-Jamie M.
Probably press fit, soldered, and glued ;) I've never successfully removed an already installed driver - I just plan on having to destroy it.
Dammit, I'm tempted to get this and install a 8x7135 board with custom programmed modes (as I do with all of my lights). I already have a quality 26650 sitting around.
Can you post a close-up of the driver?
That little cutout near the edge might be a way to get in. Try stucking a small screwdriver or something similar inside, and gently tilting it to lift the driver. Don't break it untill you get a replacement driver, please. :)
Viktor
I don`t think it will get that hot on high at 3A, the pill has a lot of aluminium, I would prefer the 3A version, and if you still feel it gets hot use it on med.
I ended up ordering this one: http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-132/3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit-Board/Detail (was able to use the discount code CPFuser at checkout)
3 mode (low, medium, 2.8amp high! YAY!!!) with memory, reverse polarity protected, and fully regulated to keep full brightness until batteries depleted to 2.8v.
Can't wait to slip it in her!!! :)
-Jamie M.
Can you give us some more details (or pictures) on how you protected the LED while applying the paint? Did you paint with spray/airbrush or brush?
I've bought a spray can of matte black, and will probably do the same thing, but I have no idea how to efficiently protect the LED itself while applying the paint.
Viktor