Thanks for the pic! I’ll give that spot a try. There are no grooves for o-rings on the pill.
Yep, the pill is damn beefy! Weighs more than the rest of the flashlight put together!
-Jamie M.
Good job! It should be an easy fix. Oh BTW stop teasing us with that SC600!! LOL
It’s an SC600w! OMG orgasm, now I just gotta put some film on the front to make it a floodie and I’ll be in love 
-Jamie M.
Thanks, lets see if it improves with an oring, it should.
I think it is the same lens I've got on another zooming, I will check in the morning, if it is, it is not a bad one.
Woot! Cleaned the reflector surface with 99% rubbing alcohol and a qtip and man, the qtip was BLACK when I was done! It came out absolutely flawless, other than the few dents, which I'm afraid might cause artifacts :( So I'ma paint it flat black anyway :) Will post pic when the paint is dry ;)
*EDIT: Paint's dry :)
Went to Home Depot and got a $1.53 o-ring kit and it had the perfect one in it! Super tight fit, had to use my vice to "press" the head on!!! Nice and stiff to slide, but slides like butter, nice and smooth, no grit no noise! I'm loving this thing now!!! Will try and post a beamshot in a bit to show how the beam looks with the reflector painted :)
Got her all put back together, super duper clean, cleaned all the threads too and re-lubed them with my favourite grease, just waiting on the battery to charge for a beamshot :)
*EDIT: I don't really like the silver "ring" visible in the above pic, so I took her all back apart and am painting the entire front of the pill. Should turn out sweet :) Just waiting on the paint to dry (again) then I'll take 1 more pic. Just 1, I promise ;)
-Jamie M.
I love the pics, wish more members had the ability to take pics like you!
Keep 'em coming!
Viktor
Hehe 
Thanks. I try!
The entire pill face re-painted:
All re-assembled. OMG love the look now! Super stealthy, can't see anything in there except the LED in the middle! WOOT! Looks so amazing :) Love it.
Here are some beam shots. It was tricky to photograph, it was my first time so I apologize. I absolutely LOVE the beam quality now! Flawless, perfect brightness throughout, nice sharp cut off, absolutely no artifacts! WOOT!!! I can't get over how bright it is, even when zoomed all the way out!!! Blows away every other flashlight I've got! Makes the SC600w look weak!
The weather is terrible out right now, so I wasn't able to get any outdoor beam shots :(
This might be a really dumb question, but this flashlight is 5 mode. I thought it's supposed to remember what level you had it on last time, and turn back on in that mode? And I thought it was "double click" to change modes, not just turn off, turn on, etc. Like I always want it on High, I don't want to cycle back through the other four every time I turn it on to get back to high :(
EDIT: Ok, got it figured out 
I just wasn't leaving it off long enough before turning it back on!!! If I shut it off on high, leave it off for 30 seconds or more, it'll start back on high!!! But if I try and turn it on too quick after turning it off, it'll cycle to the next mode.
-Jamie M.
Do you perhaps have Sipik SK68, Small Sun ZY-C10, Sipik SA-22 or Sipik SA-9?
Can you do a parallel beamshot of any of those, alongside your Keygos M12?
I'm rather interested in zoomies, and have those stated above on the way, and your beamshot of Keygos looks excellent. You might just get me interested in it. :)
Oh yes, please post a zoomed-in beamshot of M12. If you do a comparison beamshot, do both fully zoomed in and zoomed out. ;)
Viktor
Umm, all I’ve got are the Zebralight SC600w and the Fenix TK-11 
I will set up both for beam shots, and I will zoom the Keygos M12 in to match the beam size of the other two, as well as do a full zoom out shot. Not sure if I have enough wall space, but I’ll try
All flashlights are the same distance from the wall (approx 18"). If the Keygos beam shot looks "blurry" it's because it's so close to the wall. From about 4ft and farther the square LED zoomed in beam is perfectly focused :). Also, I couldn't figure out how to lock the white balance on my camera, so if the Keygos looks "blue" it isn't. The Keygos is "cool white", the SC600w is "Warm White" and the Fenix TK-11 is "Neutral White".
Ok, left to right: Keygos M12 on Highest fully zoomed out/flood, SC600w on Highest, Fenix TK-11 on Highest
An off angle pic that helps show the colour better:
Trying to match the beam size to the SC600w:
And with the Keygos fully zoomed in. It was totally messing up the camera and making the other two beams barely visible, so I had to change the exposure to get the camera to take a picture. Also, the white balance is much closer to real life on this pic:
All of the flashlights were turned on for the same amount of time (approx 15 mins). When I went to pick up the SC600w it was absolutely burning hot!! The Fenix TK-11 was very warm, and the Keygos M12 was barely warm at all.
-Jamie M.
Great pictures toysareforboys.
Sorry for being a pain in the... but it is an interesing light, and you are the only one who has it, so if you have enough patience, here I go with more questions.
Whenever you can if possible, just measure the beam diameter in flood, and in throw, at one meter from the wall to be able to compare it with other similar zoomies.
When it is at full throw, is the square well focused, are there any rings arond it?
Did you manage to measure the amps it is consuming?
Do you know the driver diameter, in case we want to replace it?
Does it let you know when are the batteries almost empty, with a blink or something similar?
And the last one (hopefully), did you measure the full lenght of the flashlight? It would be good to know how pocketable it is.
Yikes! It’s 4:44am here, so I’ma get some sleep now. Will work on your requests in the morning (or afternoon depending on how long I sleep in :laughing:.
Edit: Cause my micrometer was already on my desk:
Overall length when zoomed out/flood: 147mm
Overall length then zoomed in: 163mm
And cause my volt meter was out too:
On a Keygos IMR 26650 4800MAh at 3.98v (it's been used LOTS this evening) it was pulling 1.07amps. I will test it with a freshly charged battery tomorrow :)
Nite nite.
-Jamie M.
Thanks toysareforboys.
It looks like it is not consuming that much then, a better driver should improve it.
Have a nice sleep.
I see it turned out pretty decent. Good job! I hope this inspires you to start modding lights and i think you will end up doing good jobs. Many cheap flashlights needs tinkering before showing their true potenital.
If i may add, a matte black is reccomended vs shiny one. It seems you got a rather shiny one. Be sure to clean aluminium throughly everytime you paint it since it doesent like to stick paint much. And residual greasy stuff or impurities would make the paint job much harder.
I might get one for myself also. It's rahter beefy internals has sold me.
Have you checked how good the emitter is contacting the pill? If there is any goop under? Might have a great impact in longevity and help reduce sag to minimal.
I love this thread. Jamie is very helpful and takes great pics. :)
I love the paint job, and looking forward to more details, what yavi asked.
Keygos M12 is getting more and more interesting by the hour.
Every time I use this flashlight, it impresses me more and more. I just did the bream spread tests, and even in my fully lit basement (very bright, pool table, ping pong table, etc.) it just blew my mind!
I will edit this post and update it with the answers to the other questions asked. For now I have:
In flood mode: 1m from wall = beam diameter of 1.12m (58 degree beam spread)
In zoom mode: The "tight" bright white square of light = 10cm x 10cm, including the unfocused bleed on the edges when shooting this close, 14cm x 14cm
I cranked up the exposure so you can see the outer "ring" as well as the spill:
In real life it looks like this: *you might have to turn your monitor brightness up to see it*
I was using high temp flat black BBQ paint, but I do agree, it’s not as flat as it could be. After 1 coat it looked really flat, but after three coats it got kinda shiny. I always clean with 99% rubbing alcohol, and if the surface is polished or clear coated I sand it with some 420 grit wet sand paper. I’m a flashlight noob so no idea how to get the emitter out of the pill. I must say it’s assembled very poorly. It’s like the emitter was pressed in there crooked, this caused the reflector to get dented and not be centered to the LED, etc. If you can provide me info on how to get the emitter out I’ll take a peek. I have lots of super good quality thermal compound from building computers
I dropped in a freshly charged (4.18v) battery and the current draw was only 1.01 amps?? Wacky! I love how NOT HOT this flashlight gets on extended runtimes, compared to my SC600w and my Fenix TK-11 How hard can you drive an emitter like this? 1.5amps??
-Jamie M.
Thanks for the shots!
You are going to make me buy this thing... 
It's an XM-L, you can safely drive that at 2.8-3A, but it WILL get hot at those currents. M12 seems to have decent cooling, but I wouldn't go over say 2-2.5A, to keep it as safe and cool as possible but still with quite increased output than on 1.1A.
Viktor
Edit:
Here are the specs for XM-L: http://flashlight-wiki.com/Cree#XM-L
Feel free to browse that article and the rest of the wiki. Loads of useful info there.
that's a tough question - but in a very ideal situation (better heatsinking than in most flashlights), over 4 amps to the emitter
if I owned that light (m12), and I probably will, thanks to the info you've provided, I would probably change the driver to a 3 mode w/ hi of 2.4 to 2.8A to the emitter...
I have a thrower w/ good heatsinking that is >4A but I never have that on for very long. The M12 I'm sure I'll do very long runs w/ it on hi, and like you don't want it to be hot in my hand
That link is great! Looks like 3amps is the sweet spot, over that you’re just adding heat/killing run time for not much increase in brightness
You've given me the motovation to disassemble my perfectly clean assembled flashlights and measure the driver diameter :)
EDIT: The driver diameter is 20mm :) Got some links to a 3 mode 3 amp driver I can put in it?!? :)
Ohhh, sexy. 3amp 5 mode driver, but it says 17mm?! http://www.lck-led.com/p846/Constant-Current-LED-Driver-Board---5-Mode,-3.3-4.5V-Max.-3.0A/product_info.html
-Jamie M.
Most are 17mm, which should not be difficult to adapt, the one I am using most, and I would recommend you as it advises of low battery (when it reaches 3V) as the 26650 you are using is not protected, it is a good feature..
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020073
Yo can get the mode configuration you want soldering it.