Does that look about right for the Shocker (BTU driver)?
Also, I noticed that the O-ring inside the Shocker bezel is kind of messed up. Part of it is visible (looks like a “worm”) on the flat part of the reflector. Before I try to fix that, does the bezel ring just unscrew and then re-arrange the O-ring?
The bezel does simply unscrew, so no problem getting to that Orin’s that way. Your numbers are actually VERY low for a BTU. I’ve never heard of a CW being under 100k. I’ve tested one stock at 119K and one at 125k. You might want to increase your distance you are measuring it at, but I still don’t think it will make up the difference that yours is lacking.
Not sure what’s up.
Makes me winder if your meter is under-reading? I have a feeling that if the DD’d and dedomed XP-G2 is on copper (Sinkpad/Noctigon) it would be reading north of 100k based on what I’ve read from Tom E’s results.
The lux reading is the main reason I was posting. I’d seen that folks were saying 100K+ lux.
I was taking my readings at 11 feet (3.352) from the meter, then:
lux @ 1m = (distance squared) * (my lux reading)
I got that “formula” from another older thread I had.
Is that right?
BTW, I got the Shocker with the “BTU Driver”, and not the “DRY driver”. I also ordered a DRY driver with the same order, but it’s not being used currently.
I was just out with my shorty STL-V6, and the BTU Shocker, hitting a treeline that’s ~100 meters away from our front porch, and both the STL-V6 and the Shocker hit the treeline, about the same brightness. The Shocker beam at that distance is quite a bit larger, but, while the Shocker beam may be a bit brighter than the STL-V6’s, the brightnesses looks kind of similar.
For 3 IMR's, the Shocker should be in the 130 kcd range for sure - 77 kcd is definitely low. Did you hunt around for a while to find the absolute highest reading? Think some of the meters capture the highest measurement automatically. Also, 3.3 meters is a little on the short side but I get pretty good results at 4.3 meters, but takes a lot of hunting around that hotspot.
I'm thinking you are seeing the difference you are measuring (close), but both measurements are lower than expected.
I would not measure the BTU at one meter. Back off to three or four meters and calculate it back to one meter. Higher powered lights need to be measured from further away to be more accurate. http://www.ledrise.com/shop_content.php?coID=18
Edit: Now I see your latest post. Duh.
Yes - 1 lux at 1 meter is 1 candela, technically, we should always quote candela units. kcd is short for 1,000 candela. when someone says lux, you should always assume they are just reading it off the meter, while candela puts it in perspective to a distance which has a standard definition that can be compared and rated at.
That result is again strange - normally a KK ICR should do better than a TF 5000, but the KK INR's are higher resistance than KK ICR's. I got a couple of each, though regretted buying the INR's -- didn't learn about the difference until after I bought them.
I agree, it’s strange, but this is the same meter that I used in that other thread with the same HD2010 (although I was using the Efest IMR with the earlier test). I’ve been using the HD2010 as a kind of “benchmark”, since the lux readings for an HD2010 with EAST-092 seems to be fairly well-known.
The distance is, I think, accurate, as I’ve measured it several times.
The only other difference from the earlier testing is that I’m now testing in a slightly different “environment”, so that I could get the new distance.
Earlier, I had the meter attached to the front of our fridge, but we got a new SS fridge last week, so now it’s mounted on the front of the SS fridge (rather than a white one).
Could the meter battery be low and would that cause lower lux readings? The meter’s still fairly new, and I haven’t really used it much though :(…
Puzzling…
Edit: Tom E, I found the earlier thread/post:
In that, you mentioned:
and it appears that I am getting 40Klux/Kcd at 1m with the HD2010 at ~4.22 amps?
If that’s correct, then it appears that the Shocker lux I measured should be “correct”?
Edit 2: Did you already mod the HD2010 so that you got the 57Kcd?
That’s a good question. With the light on, looking at the lens from the “side”, there is a bluish tint, but the lens is kind of really dirty. I haven’t tried to clean it yet.
Can I ask the following: Has anyone (other than me) gotten a BTU Shocker (with the BTU driver) that is producing less than the 130Klux that others have mentioned?
