Who knew that I wasn’t the only guy who adores LED’s? It’s wonderful to see that I’m not alone. Gone are the days when I would break out the collection only when I was alone. No more suffering in silence, I now feel empowered.
I’ve been lurking for a few weeks, now it’s time to wave the hand. Howdy! I really have learned a lot from you guys, thanks…
A question, if I may… Since the arrival of my 3T6 my TR-1200 has been gathering dust. I would like resurrect the TR-1200. I’m thinking something really floody and seriously bright. This could be a really good photographic tool. Can anyone suggest what would be required to pull this off? I have SMT skills and rework tools, no problem there. Any ideas?
Lastly, up until now, my Defiant 3D would throw light farther than any light I own, that is up until I received my Jacob A60. That pencil thin beam pushes light farther than that big Defiant does. The Defiant is brighter, but the A60 pushes what it has farther than the Defiant. That’s something that needs to change. I’m looking for a light that throws farther and brighter than my A60 (without spending a fortune). Anyone care to help me spend my $$$… And BTW, I learned about the A60 here, thanks again.
Unless you do some mods or buy something like a k40 or tn31 you are not likely to find an xml that will out throw a Healthy A60. You can buy a Small Sun ZY-T08 and de-dome it and you should be there. That new MAXToch SN6X-2Xw sounds like it should do it no problem. I forgot about it. Sounds like a heck of a thrower.
If you want a flooder, I would probably but in 5 xml2-t6’s at 5000k, with the dome on, on sinkpads, and figure out a way to get say 3 amps to each emitter for 15a all up. Probably gonna be basically 3 samsung 20r’s direct drive!
To beat the a60, join the a60.
Get a noctigon 16mm with xpe2 from intl-outdoor, lap the anodizing off the host, mount with artic silver, change all wires to at least 20 gauge, and if the driver isnt putting out 3 amps, make it.
Should be close to 200k lux - the perfect pencil beam!
15 amps w/ XML. I like it. Is there a driver that can do 15 amps?
About the A60, I’ve printed your reply to me. Easy stuff to do. Checked out current at the tailcap, 1.6A, and like others had noticed, current goes down fast as thinks heated up. Cleaned the contact surfaces, things start getting warm after 30 secs or so, and no more sag. The things I’ve learned here… Just one more thing, is there a replacement reflector for the A60?
Re-wire the XR-Es to parallel, ditch the driver and make it direct drive, and it's quite impressive for what it is. It'll even run from two cells in series as long as they're average cells (at around 10-11 amps), but two hot rod INR/IMRs in series will kill it dead quicker than you can blink. There's enough room in the tube to fit the cells into an inline-parallel adapter, that will net around 6 amps and is the best bet if you want it to be reliable and usable, and not just a 15-seconds-at-a-time party trick.
