And if the protection circuit fails? Many of the IC chips put on protected cells are very cheap parts, they’re known for failure. They also severely limit current delivery in high drain cells making it a mute point if you have a light that needs more than 4.5 or 5A.
When you start relying on technology to protect you, well, Shi* Happens.
So for next project a good idea would be to specify the type of protection supplied.
Mitko, you need to do something with that bypass! Too many loose strands of wire, you’re going to get a short and it might not be pretty!
A single strand of 22ga or 24ga wire, silicone coated, with a bit of a coil to it will suffice.
YOU are the protection circuit!
I was going to ask what’s that stringy thing! I would solder that in a nice blob and not let it loosy-goosy with that many amps in a metal tube.
For those that don’t recognize that beauty, it’s the led4power LD-1 with 2-step low voltage protection (3V-restricted power; 2.8V-sleep)
Then Dale for the next project you should state that as part of the specs!
argolite, I don’t know if it completely shuts off below 2.8V or not. It steps down and warns, and I THINK it shuts off completely at 2.8V, but am not sure.
What I DO know is, if you’re trusting the circuitry to protect you then you’re putting your life and the safety of others in the hands of the Chinese engineers that designed the driver and the Chinese manufacture of the same.
Are you SURE you want to do that?
Sure m8, its only for the test, actualy, th emain X6 issue are those springs, i will just w8 for the family to go bed, then will rework it as it sould look
I could envision those wires pressing out when you screw it all together and shorting out a VERY capable cell! Yikes! 
I was a bystander.
Heh
DBCstm, you tested on X6 XP l emitter ? I wonder, will the beam be more tight wituout dedoming using XP L ?
Beam profile will be the same. However, Cree made some silent changes to the XM-L2 that end up with it having a higher Vf, limiting how hard we can push it. The XP-L will take more current than the new version of XM-L2. Die size remains the same, beam profile is unaffected by swapping the two. De-doming either one will tighten the beam, but also change the tint in the majority of cases.
That said, even at the lower currents allowed with the new wave of XM-L2, output remains high…maybe not as high as the older emitters or the XP-L but it’s only a couple hundred lumens difference and around an amp less power being consumed. Some trade-offs, but pretty good ones for the most part.
I’ve put a de-domed XP-G2 in the X6 for 100Kcd with an FET driver. 
I don’t trust anything. I just want to know what this driver does. And I certainly hope that others would not rely on a single point of failure once we have the information.
Well, last month i acidently visited IOS, and XP L-s were just 4.9 on that lovely copper PCB of theirs, so i bought 3, V5 2a i think, the problem with dedoming is this:
I dedomen one V5, but the tint became like 4500k…tried also U2 1A, even worst, dedomen too t6 0d from FT, it became green!
I dunno what bin should i choose, othervise i like dedomen emitters
I had it go down to low and I cycled it back up to turbo repeatedly, to the point that turbo would only stay on about 2 seconds. I didn’t take low so far out that it shut down. Once it’s on low it can take a LONG time to drain the cell to a critical point and that’s only pertaining to the life of the cell, not any danger per se. Taking the cell below 2.5V can damage the cells ability to recharge, even put some cells to “sleep” such that they won’t recharge in the majority of chargers.
To the best of my knowledge, letting one run till there’s not enough juice to power the LED is, in and of itself, not dangerous.
The XP-L V5 2A is currently the highest bin available for de-doming as is the XM-L2 U2 1A. It’s hit or miss how they come out, but I’ve had better luck keeping the tint high when de-doming with heat as compared to gasoline. YMMV
I’ve stuck 4 XM-L2 U2 emitters, de-domed, in a Terminator before and had them show that green hue…$36 dropped that had to be changed again as I hated it!
To my findings, the de-domed emitters are at their best when pushed hard…5.5-7A.
Sorry Dale my bad will fame or blame Krono only in the future for this project
Krono gets the credit, it’s his baby!
I would have dropped it when everything got so controversial. Or I would have ironed out what I wanted the light to be, then offered it…no input as to options from the masses. Since there’s no possible way for everyone to agree on the same specs, it’s fairly pointless to take all the suggestions. Someone is going to be disappointed, even as someone is delighted.
I think it’d be awesome to have led4power make the drivers for a BLF run of lights, but again that is not in my power to make happen. And I don’t think I’d wish it on Neven…can you imagine building 800 drivers by hand? Yikes!
I like building one at a time, much more fun for me that way… built the driver, build the light, play! :bigsmile:
Heat you say…havent tried that, just read about it…any links or tips ? Thanks in advance
Yeah, LD1 driver is very good, i love it