The XP-L V5 2A is currently the highest bin available for de-doming as is the XM-L2 U2 1A. It’s hit or miss how they come out, but I’ve had better luck keeping the tint high when de-doming with heat as compared to gasoline. YMMV
I’ve stuck 4 XM-L2 U2 emitters, de-domed, in a Terminator before and had them show that green hue…$36 dropped that had to be changed again as I hated it!
To my findings, the de-domed emitters are at their best when pushed hard…5.5-7A.
Sorry Dale my bad will fame or blame Krono only in the future for this project 
Krono gets the credit, it’s his baby!
I would have dropped it when everything got so controversial. Or I would have ironed out what I wanted the light to be, then offered it…no input as to options from the masses. Since there’s no possible way for everyone to agree on the same specs, it’s fairly pointless to take all the suggestions. Someone is going to be disappointed, even as someone is delighted.
I think it’d be awesome to have led4power make the drivers for a BLF run of lights, but again that is not in my power to make happen. And I don’t think I’d wish it on Neven…can you imagine building 800 drivers by hand? Yikes!
I like building one at a time, much more fun for me that way… built the driver, build the light, play! :bigsmile:
Heat you say…havent tried that, just read about it…any links or tips ? Thanks in advance
Yeah, LD1 driver is very good, i love it
On Watchuseek when creating project watches they discuss every feature before voting the idea being that after a vote happy or not with the outcome end of discussion moving on to the next feature but every project still seem to be an Herculean task for the group responsible.
Just a Suggestion. Start a separate X6 modifications thread rather than putting everything in this thread which has gotten too large to conveniently find information. Also the thread covers too many subjects.
And the WUS project watches are in the affordable range - $300 to $500. Lots more than a $20 light.
Well I like the idea of a feature discussion possibly, however I’m pretty certain a “auto-off” or “nanny mode” of this light is not going to be popular and should not be added. The reason being is many people would rather have the option of being able to run the light as long as possible in an emergency and possibly ruining the battery instead of being left in the dark in the middle of the forest when you are hiking, unexpectedly in the dark after normal discharge of the battery, or get lost on a trail in the dark, forgot to recharge a battery, etc etc. If you don’t have the choice to run it on low, you essentially don’t even have a light with you. This “feature” becomes a big problem.
The other reasons I think this outweighs the concern of leaving it on all night is two fold: it is hopefully much more likely to forget to change a battery or grab a not fully charged battery or be in a situation to need a battery past its normal discharge cycle than it is to leave a light on un attended all night for most people. And, secondly and most importantly, the person leaving a li-ion on all night un-attended has solutions available to them. You can solve this either by taking responsibility to shut off a light, running it on lowest mode only, or buying a protected cell, whereas the person with emergency need of a light and an auto-off feature has no way to change the function of the light for his/her needs. Really, if you have a tendency to leave lights on all night, you should not ever be using Li-ion un-protected cells anyways, not many lights actually turn off on low voltage, so if you encourage this habit of using it irresponsibly, eventually you will use some other light that doesn’t shut off.
So, we have two opposing concerns with this “feature”, and the fact that the need for use past low voltage auto off is probably (hopefully) more likely than running it all night unattended, the former is a “need” while the latter is irresponsible, and the fact that the former situation has no solution whereas the latter has several solutions available to it, makes this “feature” one that shouldn’t be added. Not only that but then there is pricing/driver ability to even do it.
Just got my original 2 lights in the mail, last ones to arrive. And the mail carrier came to the house with other packages, didn’t have this one. I knew it had hit our post office this morning and described it to him. He didn’t have it. But, about 4 minutes after he left I hear a horn out front…he found it in his vehicle! Woohoo!
So I have my 2 CW in hand, narrow tape completely around the box on both. WTH? Such a nice effort on Neal’s part, such a stupid move by the shipping dept.
One of these will probably get a Triple mod, the other will stay as is (if I can pull that off)
We’re not sure it hasn’t already been added
I just spent some time at Ace Hardware and found that two 15/16 X 11/16 X 1/8 " O-rings fill the clip ring of the BLF Special very well for a good cigar grip .
About low voltage protection.
I suspect that it should be different depending on the type of battery you use. If you want to fully use the extra capacity available in a good NCR-battery, then you want to have the low voltage protection lower than if you use (all?) other types of Li-Ion batteries. That is an argument for having the protection in the battery and not in the flashlight. And in the mind of the user as well...
My first light just arrived the same way as far as tape is concerned and I got the tape completely off of the box top and sides by heating the box and tape over one burner on my gas stove. I held the box about a foot above the burner flame which I set on high to heat the box cardboard and tape. The tape pealed off almost completely clean with no box damage. No need for a hair dryer or a heat gun.
Considering that the box was also wrapped in thin sheet foam which was taped the box tape served no actual purpose as far as keeping the box closed and contents inside the box unless it was meant to do so inside the factory prior to the sheet foam wrapping of the completed filled box.
Spoken like someone who’s had to chew the protection board off an 18650 with their teeth in a cave…
The good thing about voting is getting rid of “I am pretty certain”
The bad thing is it can make the product middle of the road bland
The stock X6-SE driver has LOW VOLTAGE WARNING that kicks in at 3.2/3.3 vdc. It will start stepping down to Mode 2 (?). a quick bump of the switch will bring it back for a minute or two at a time then it will eventually tell you NO. I do not know if it will completely turn off because at the very low draw it will next to forever to get to 2.6/2.7 volts but I think it does (based on prior conversations somewhere in this thread and pm's).
As for protected cells, even for gifts, I have found that they are a false sense of security. Had one where it did not shut down and another that shut down at 3.5 volts...ugh!
I can definitely confirm it steps down to mode 1, and starts blinking once per second. My X6-SE warning triggers just below 3.05 V, which is identical to this popular Nanjg 105c 7135 driver (tested by swapping the same cell around). On an NCRB at 2.85 V, I can step up to mode 2 for less than 10 seconds before it steps back down.
pics please
Yes I agreed voting could be good, but the final decision is for the group buy organizers. You can always argue someone may do something stupid with this or that part of the light. If you try to solve them all, eventually you have a neutered moonlight and low mode only out put light with foam bumpers, no sharp edges, turns on/off automatically with a light sensor and turns off when facing upwards, so that nobody stares into the beam and blinds themselves, burns anything or hits themselves with the light or causes a concussion or cut impacting themselves with the light, or can walk in a predetermined level of darkness by choice because its deemed “dangerous”…and 2 people buy it.
It is also almost a non-issue, since this light has a moonlight with a tiny draw, it should be able to run all night after stepping down, from 3.05V warning before becoming too unsafe.
In this case, when there are several ways you can deal with a safety issue, the safety issue “solution” causes other safety issues and loss of use for another group, it shouldn’t be done. Especially when one solution is readily available that doesn’t alter the light, it’s easy to employ and those users concerned about it should do it anyways (buying a protected battery for anyone who isn’t a flashoholic or responsible should be done by default), I don’t think there is really a need to vote over this one! Making your light auto shut off if you get lost in the dark is not a “feature” that’s very safe in the first place…I hope we never get this “feature”… 
Sorry for the hurried , crappy cellphone pic .