Group Buy-BLF X6-SE OP update-GB over.

Woohoo! Got mine in!

Not NW…cool white 1A’s (I ordered 2x NW emitters…my favorite is T6-4C so the 3C was very close [but I am not put off by cool white emitters either…just prefer neutral white light if at all possible]…they sent the wrong ones :frowning: ) but they are AWESOME…tons of light, feel great in the hand and are an EXCELLENT out of the box STOCK…sure they don’t deliver the whopping 3.5A, but lower current means they will run longer and still make buckets of light!

oh yeah…both boxes have tape…bleh

Thanks to ALL of those invovled in this group buy…very very very good deal and I now have a flashlight that says BLF on it :slight_smile:

Ok - from post #4135:

My two BLF SE's, both NW:

#1: on a LG HE2 @2.74A tail: lumens: 966 @start, 918 @30 secs

#2: on a SONY VTC5 @2.80A tail: lumens: 986 @start, 938 @30 secs

Update:

Well #2 is gone, but still got #1 before modding the hell out of it, so #1 is totally a stock X6 BLF SE in NW tint, out of the box:

#1: on a Samsung ICR 26C (laptop or power pack pull) unprotected cell at 4.20v, 2.44A at the tail: lumens: 870 @start, 836 @30 secs

I normally don't use protected cells in single cell lights, and the Samsung ICR seems to be middle of the road, certainly not an IMR or high powered. I have, what I think, is a proper DMM setup with short 14 AWG direct soldered in wires. Is this what you were looking for?

It seems quite impressive to me at 2.44A at the tail, not much of a drop in the first 30 secs, and 836 OTF lumens in a nice 3C tint -- not bad.

Note: all my lumens and kcd measurements are "my own" taken on an older LX1330B meter - kcd taken indoors and lumens in a PVC constructed lightbox, accuracy can be freely debated...

Mine has dry threads, i have not had a chance to lubricate and put a battery in the light yet, but it does look like a nice light, did everyone’s come dry?

This way is good though, i don’t have to remove old lubricant before using the stuff i have!

The threads on mine were as dry as a wooden…well, you get the picture. Nothing a bit of Nyogel didn’t fix, silky smoothy now. Only did the tail threads, the others I won’t be screwing and unscrewing.

Mine came lubed and with all parts in order. Thanks again Krono for a mammoth effort.

I keep hearing nyogel is the best, but all i have is this and it seems to work reasonably well
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10003861/1275200-jetbeam-mg20-silicone-grease-for-flashlight-mainte

Bort I used the exact same thing and believe me it sucks, it hardens over time and leaves white residue. Nyogel is the perfect flashlight lubricant based in my experience.

G'Day Lionheart_2281,

Did You buy the Nyogel in Oz?, if yes, where did You buy it from?

Thank You Very Much,

George

I use Campagnolo grease ment for bicycles but hopefully ok on flashlights too

I prefer Krytox over Nyogel, especially on titanium.

Nah mate, bought it off ebay from an overseas seller.

Durex Play lubricant. Guaranteed rubber safe too :bigsmile:
increased excitement when you play your flashlight or “flashlight”

One could use the whole line of flashlight accessories, latex anodization protectors, scented flashlight lubricants, edible flashlight acessories and of course flashlight porn
One could even argue li ion batteries and chargers provide more enjoyable vibes and longer runtimes for all your flashlighting needs.

Really? No flEshlight jokes yet?

After experiencing these lights for a bit, and many a ride, I want to sincerely thank the people that made this possible.

I couldn’t imagine having a current flashlight warmer than the neutral tint. Just making me wonder if there is no true white.

And I use jojoba oil for lubing flashlights threads. It’s what I have anyways, so if I get it on myself, no worries at all—I like it that way. It keeps the rubber in great shape too.

Now I need a great strobe flashlight, that I can use on my bike :smiley:

Off topic.

But you don’t want strobe for a bike, not unless you want to dazzle the oncoming traffic so that they then drive head long into you.

I’m not even convinced flashing beacon lights are a good idea, as judging speed, distance and precise location of a flashing light is so much harder than a static one.

Putting a whitevstrobe on the front and a red on the rear is the best way to be seen during the daytime. But I agree yhatit isnot a good idea for night time riding.

WarHawk - You're not kidding! This light does feel excellent in the hand - as I have been saying just like the Maglites sans the weight and size :)

Even at the outputs everybody is getting there are many lights being purchased for 3x and 4x the money of the X6 Kronos Edition :) and when many of those step down from their almost 1000lm they go to drop to 300lm :(

BLF could also stand for "Best Light Forever" LOL

This is Kronos quote from the OP;

“Good news is that it will be replaced by 4C tint…100 total will be made!”
“There will still be a total of 1000 X6-SEs made. Since lights have been overselling the commitment list, we have taken sales offline until these items are closer to being stock. We will then come up with a new GB code so that people later on the list can have an opportunity to buy their lights. It should be within about 1 week when they are ready.”

They appear to not be “offline” and worse yet T6 4C (4500K) sales can be taken, albeit at full price,
but won’t this affect BLF’ers from getting their 4C light if the supply is dwindled?

If we need to order now, that is all well and good, but we need the new code.
Thanks Krono for all your efforts.

Keith

Just tested mine using a KeepPower protected 2600 mAh (based on a Samsung ICR-18650-26H) and it was bright! going to check later if I can spot the difference using a Samsung INR18650-25R.