Here goes the budget…… please put me down for four (4) NW units.
I don’t understand this. It would seem to me that a higher frequency would be better for lower modes, or at least as good. Can someone explain to me why moonlight mode would require a low frequency PWM?
First of all, I would bring back the mode memory. I’m repeating myself here, but it is annoying to switch through the modes every time.
Anyways, here’s my opinion:
Moon, 13 lumens This is good for a low level, comparable to Fenix E01. I would not call it moon mode tho. No need for lower mode than this in this light, but I know some will disagree. If this level is reduced to 1lumen, then the other modes should be readjusted too.
Low, 64 lumens I like this level, it is plenty of light for a general use. Comparable to the old 1xAA LED lights.
Med, 536 lumens This is too far from the previous mode and too close to the next mode. Should be adjusted to ~200 lumens I think.
Hi, 730 lumens I’m not sure if I’d ever use this mode. If I need lots of light, I use turbo. So maybe this could be hidden and only used as fall back for turbo mode. Or maybe it could be lowered a bit into the ~600lumen range to make more difference between turbo and Hi.
Turbo, 990 lumens Good, let all the lumens come out!
Short version: 13 lumens, 64 lumens, 200 lumens, 600 lumens, 990 lumens. With mode memory. That’s how I would do it.
PWM works by turning the LED on/off really fast. It is hard to turn 1000lumen light on/off so fast that it would appear to be 1lumen, while still making the light appear like it would not be blinking. The “on”-time would have to be 1/1000 compared to the “off”-time. There should be lower current controlled mode to allow the 1lumen mode work properly by using PWM on that lower current controlled mode instead of the full 1000 lumens.
I’m not expert on this, but that’s how I understand it.
I think we should go back to the settings from the beginning of this tread.
I’m also good with 5 modes, but not without last mode memory.
I think we can all agree that we are not going to agree on the modes AND should not deviate from what was already decided. The purpose of the samples should be to check build quality and components. Those that really do not like the modes will end up changing them anyway.
The only change from original that I would request is last mode memory as in the stock X6 and hopefully an easy way to disable (for those that do not want it) possibly through the soldering of a star (or similar) without the expense of changing the driver. To me the absence of the memory will make these shelf queens and although I have committed to 4 units and will stand by that I simply will not be able to purchase the remaining quantity that I was hoping because they will be too aggravating to have to keep cycling the modes all night long.
If the build quality is good (can't see why not) then we should proceed. Of course..does anybody have the courage for a "drop test" 
?
I agree about the modes.
5 modes probably does need mode memory. At any rate I certainly wouldn’t want a light like this if it starts in low with 5 modes and no mode memory.
3 modes and no memory would be ok (although I don’t object to memory), although a light this size should really be firing up in High.
Mode ordering:
H - L - M
That way it’s only one click away to get to low.
If it does start in low (bah!!!) then:
L - H - M
If it manages none of these, then it’s probably not a light for me.
Thanks, Blinky1. That’s how I understand it, too. And because it has to be “off” FAR more than it is “on” in order to produce a proper moon mode, I’d think a faster switching (higher frequency) would be better. The eye catches the blinks because they are too far apart in time. So, the closer they are in time, the less visible the blinking will be. Switching at a higher rate would mean that the time between “on” times can be reduced, while at the same time, the percentage of cycles where the light is “off” can be increased. I don’t understand how lower frequency PWM could be required for a moon mode to work, when it seems the opposite is true.
I’d much rather a 1000lm light start in low if there is no mode memory.
There can’t be a double tap to high on this light. It’s a mechanical switch.
I also agree that dropping the 4th level out of the sequence and using it as a fall back for Turbo would be a good idea. Then the difference between level 3 and level 5 (currently) would be significant and recognizable.
The eye really needs about a doubling in output to really notice the level bump. This is especially so on the higher modes. In practice, the jump from 13 lumens to 65 isn’t bad at all and 65 still is a good indoors level. Walking around some with it last night right before I went to bed the 2 bottom modes seemed pretty good.
I would like to see that 13 a bit further down but not necessarily drastically. I don’t fly a fighter jet, have no need for a fraction of a lumen moon in sheer and total darkness. If I did, this wouldn’t be the light I’d use.
Someone else can do the drop test and run over with a tank, that kind of stuff makes me wince and I can’t bring myself to do it to my own lights or anybody elses, at any base cost. Now, if it were a PITA light and not working…
I was expecting to see the familiar Eagle Eye X6 logo on the opposite side, and would welcome that back onto the light. I really think they deserve recognition for the work they’ve done here, and the blank side seems odd.
I wouldn’t mind seeing the belt clip a full circle that could only be removed with the tail cap off. It would be more reliable on a belt and the clip would have to be mangled to lose the light.
I don’t have but one other light that kept a belt clip on it, I don’t usually trust em, but I do like it on this light.
Edit: Oops! Forgot about the new Fenix TK22, it’s got the belt clip too and it’s staying on. Just got that one recently… in all honesty it will be sitting around a lot with these Eagle Eyes lights in hand. 
Can you check it for water proofness? That’s the same config my original one was and it wasn’t the very least bit waterproof. I know the o-ring looks like it goes in that reflector groove but all I changed was swapped it to the front of the lens and after that the light survived not only a dunk but went swimming in my pants pocket (not on purpose) and was submerged 5+ minutes and came out dry. With the red o-ring in the stock location it didn’t survive a 30sec dip.
You see, I struggle to relate to that. If I grab a 1000 lumen light, it is most likely 99.99% of the time because I want a 1000 lumen output.
If I only want low or less, it just seems obvious to me, to simply pick a different light.
Keychain and compact pocket EDC lights have a claim to start in low. But that’s about it. But this light is at least 2 size classes above those.
For me, this is an excellent size for an EDC. I like using an EDC in low to med most of the time, as though it were one of the smaller less capable lights. Cell lasts a long time. But on the occasion that, when out and about a bigger light is needed, well, it’s still right there on the belt.
If I know I need 1000 lumens walking out the door, the EDC is still on the belt and an additional, larger light, is grabbed. One that has cell capacity and thermal run time to do 1000 for sustained periods.
Then again, my 3” neck light does 921 lumens…
I too would EDC this and do other lights of this size. But it doesn’t stop me not hating to have to shift through a load of modes.
If there was an easy way to switch the ordering, that would be better than memory tbh, e.g.
Default H-M-L no memory.
However some kind of button press or slider on the driver changes it to
L-M-H no memory.
It would suit all then.
That’s what I’m thinkin’ too. I want a light that has the capability to light up whatever I need lit up. I don’t want to have to think about which light in my collection is the right fit for what I’m heading into. Sometimes, I may not have the chance to exchange lights before I need either a lower or a higher output. In professional audio, the system is intentionally designed to have a certain amount of “headroom” above the highest normal usage levels. It’s not unusual at all to want to have power to spare. But, being able to scale it down to a low enough level is equally important, if it’s going to be useful in the widest range of situations and circumstances.
I don’t want specialist flashlights for every occasion. I want every light I own to be both bright enough and dim enough to be used wherever a light is needed. And most of the time, I want to start on low. Even probably half of the times I need high output, low is still a better place to start. One thing I really appreciate about my Olight S20 Baton is that I can always choose to start on moon, no matter what mode was used last. Then again, with a quick two-click from off, it goes straight to high, so it is really the best of both worlds!
I 2nd that, my “normal” work day is 11 hrs. Get some rest bud.
weekday you guys play?
I've just posted my review of the sample light. Output numbers to follow tonight or tomorrow. ;)
If it’s not to late to get on the list for one in NW, count me in. Thanks.