I agree 100% with the idea of the 12300 cell. I think that’s the perfect capacity, maybe with a Turbo of ~300 (stepdown to 150ish?), but then well spaced modes, like a Moonlight, 15, 60/75, then Turbo. I know some people don’t like turbo, but I think as long as it’s not a crazy stepdown or way out of line with the other modes I would like the option to be there. I have the Nitecore TIKI (which I love) and that’s how it works, stepdown is after 1 minute 20 seconds, down to 120, and I think with this we could do a bit better, probably a full 2 minutes if we have a bit more size for heat dissipation due to the 12300 size. Just my opinion, of course.
Would be I interested in 3000k
It would need an e switch (I dislike twisties- my only gripe with the Mag Solitaire), USB C, and a reasonable battery capacity, maybe 350-400 maybe? I like the idea of TIR/optics as well. For the emitter, why not do something like a Samsung LH351D high cri?
Any update on this one? I’d buy a couple 10180 with SST20 4K for sure. +1 to USB C.
When I asked in June, Barry said he would send an update when available.
This still going on? Anduril and reflashable code would be a must for me, other stuff is open.
Isn’t this the SC01?
for me, the one mode light is the best for true keychain, now rocking skilhunt E3A as a keychain flashlight. And ofcourse one hand operated.
Yes I’ve been edc’ing a 1aaa light in my watch pocket for years. It’s ok to have 2 or 3 brightness levels but no blinky modes please. Don’t need 100s of lumens. A 350 lumen 10180 powered keychain light (SC01) is almost scary and crazy. 500 lumens is a traditional car headlamp. But, a 1aaa light IME is too big for a literal keychain light. Even 10180 is too big. I have a custom 1xLR44 light there now, but before that always had something like a Photon.
The rectangular lights that look like car alarm remotes are interesting as pocket lights in their own right, but I wouldn’t want one on my keychain either.
Keychain lights are less important than they used to be, now that everyone has a flashlight in their phone.
Added: I’ve always had trouble with e-switch lights turning on by accident, to the point that lots of them have lockout modes and the ones that don’t, should. Twisties IME have not had that problem. So I do like twisties.
Ok, thinking about this some more, forget Anduril (I’m guessing this light will use way too small a processor if there is one at all) but keep the 10180 battery, keep the light as small as possible, twisty is good, and I’d say eliminate the built-in USB charger to keep the size down (see Lumintop EDC Pimi for how this would look). There should be either 1 mode of about 10 lumens, or 2 modes of say 3 and 30 lumens. No blinking, no 300 lumens, make the light really nice rather than worrying about the cost within reason ($20+ is fine). I see this as a slightly upscale replacement for the classic Photon Microlight, rather than a photon grenade as TK put it.
Why don’t I buy a Pimi? I’m tempted though 1) copper seems like a stupid material for a flashlight, because of dings and tarnishing; Ti is much nicer. 2) it is too bright / kills battery too fast. I’d want it backed off to about 10 lumens as mentioned above. I wonder if I can do that by changing a resistor or something.
I wouldn’t want the 12300 cell because of size and because it’s hard to find. At that point you’re making a pocket light. I use 1aaa for that (fits in my watch pocket ok) but ideally I’d like something thinner. The Nitecore Tube is just 7mm thick and was quite tempting, but I’m told it is not a very good light, and the levels are poorly chosen, so meh.
Lockout procedure takes too long and PWM is visible on low, else this is a good light. I’ve had countless of them open to swap the LED. It was somehow rumored that it does not have LVP, but that’s not true. I like the UI (except for lockout) for it’s ramping and momentary features. At the same time it is easy to operate. Modes are moon and max (i.e., low ), but as I said, there’s “stepless” ramping. Press and hold from off and stop when it’s bright enough.
Gave away some of them and never heard anything negative.
The small 10180 are terrible cells. Take away lots of space for, what, 80 mAh? My latest baby, the TF Minix, is about the size of the Tube, somewhat thicker, and has 300 mAh. I only would kick mode memory out, maybe use a warmer CCT LED (BLF Edition? ), but that are minor complaints. Anyway, this little beast made me rethink my AAA choice for keychain lights.
what is that?
The Minix looks nice but I like keychain lights to be tiny, and don’t particularly want a multi-led light or a UV light. UV messes up eyes so I would only use a UV light for particular applications, no need to EDC one. Red is great for night vision but I’d want 660nm red (hard to find) and if the same light does both red and white I’m sure to turn on the white by accident and maybe get other people mad at me if they are also night adapted. So I’d rather have a separate red light. I just ordered a couple of Sofirn C01 in 660nm red and that will fulfill an old desire of mine. I currently have a CMG Infinity in the traditional 635nm red. (Edit: correction, the ones I ordered are 670nm not 660, sounds even better).
80mah is a reasonable amount of energy, equivalent to 240mah at 1.2 volts, about like an old time AAA nicad. 80mah can run a led at 20mA for 5 hours. The classic CPF EDC light (Arc AAA) was tuned for 5 hour runtime which was around 30mA for 3 lumens with the Nichia BS leds of the era. Today’s leds will do maybe 6-8 lumens on 20mA? That is really enough for a keychain light most of the time, imho. A burst mode of 60 lumens would be equal to an old school Surefire 6P tactical light.
I’ve noticed something else interesting: zinc-air cells (used in hearing aids) have tremendous energy density compared to the other cells we use. A #675 cell, exact same size as an LR44 watch battery, has as much as 600mAH at 1.5 volts. The drawback is they start consuming their “fuel” as soon as you peel off the little sticker that covers the air hole, and use themselves up in maybe a month all by themselves. But you can slow that down by putting the sticker back on. They are fairly affordable at around 20 cents each at Costco in packs of 48, since hearing aid wearers use them as consumables. The 48 pack is actually eight 6-packs (little dispensers), which is convenient.
So I wonder whether something like that might be usable in a flashlight, maybe in conjunction with a capacitor. The light could be a reverse twisty with its own little air hole, so when turned off the hole would be sealed and slow down the battery self-consumption.
better with type c port