Ejected Filament everything is done by me that I could do, the springs which I bought from CN. 6063-T6 rods bought from UK, Brass rods bought from UK, then cut, screws from Austria etc. Could get anything locally unfortunately. Boards are 3oz copper thickness, for who cares 3 times less resistance than the boards people do at 1Oz copper, since there are narrow traces heavy copper is possible, on those narrow driver traces that is quite hard to do, or no one will pay extra.
I wasnt sure, but I remembered it was complicated though. It works anyway, not sure what I should be expecting though from it.
I just took some amp readings, using a DMM designed for automotive use, but it does 10amp. Its home handyman decent, not professional, but not bargain basement either so make what you will of the numbers. The leads are stock, but decent.
XinTD X3
Sony VTC5 4.06v
0.08
0.84
2.54
3 x Eneloop (Gen3) 3.86v in cradle
Low 0.05 *0.08
Med 0.51 *0.78
High 1.43 *2.01 (I went high last due to the way the light modes work so maybe it had already lost some amps)
The loops are fresh from the pack (I assume will do better fully charged), never been on a charger. The VTC is new, one charge cycle.
Edit: * = Amp retest with fully charged Loops. On high it was dropping from 2.01 to 1.85 quite quickly, close to .01 amps per second. But the fall slowed at 1.85 on. I stopped at about 1.81 which took around 20 seconds to get to from 1.85 (guess, I wasnt timing it with a stopwatch).
I have been replying in quite many threads regarding the resistance, etc when measuring current in series with the DMM. If you used my cradle you need to see 2.54A also with those Eneloops. Simply trust me and use 12-14AWG wire that are are not longer than 30cm and you will see the difference, just makes sure the wires have good contact in the DMM sockets. It really does not matter if your DMM is rated 10A or 20A, because they it comes down to resistance and available voltage in the circuit you measure.
But I used the same DMM and leads for both battery combos, or am I missing something in that? Im assuming the AA batteries could do with a charge, which Im doing now.
Yep cells could use a charge. VTC5 are world leading in low internal resistance while 3 Eneloops cannot compare to that cell model. Also make sure any spring is pressed as hard as possible because that will also cause variation with Eneloops.
A note I was suing the carries with a C88 where the carrier simply makes contact with the driver, on the X3 these is a contact board and some leads to the Nanjg driver, that is a poor design when it comes to a flashlight that is supposed to work of 3*Eneloop. On the C88 I didn't have to work with that "extra resistance"
A few people have posted in this thread that on 3 AA it will not hold full power for long, that they would sag really quickly. Given they are fresh from the pack, Im assuming they are maybe 70% to start with.
I can say that its still bright with the reduced current. I would still use it with AA even if thats all shes got. I bought the carrier first, as I like the look of it and thought it might come in handy, and then the light to make use of the carrier.
You can see the's graph here on Eneloops using and how it sags using the IOS carrier and XM-L2 T3, the plastic carrier should offer more sag than that.
My replacement X3 arrived after 11 days. Much better condition than the 1st. It also has jagged edges on the machined out portions of the fins on the head and a piece of stray metal or something stuck under the anno in between the fins. There is some play in the threads. The reflector has the same defect on the flat portion of the reflector, but to a much lesser degree.
Overall it’s acceptable. I am a bit disappointed though; I was expecting a pristine, beautiful light considering how much praise XinTD flashlights have received.
Or a working switch. I got mine to operate better, but it still isn’t right. I found that I could get it to function some of the time if I could loosen the plastic retaining ring a hair. Mine didn’t even come with a battery carrier. Last gearbest order for sure. I got a light that works reliable 50% of the time, and has a switch that can’t be swapped out.
at the photos, NOT as you described? There are forum members that claimed they received 3 (three) perfect lights. I would ask for third replacement as these are seconds, no?
LOL, mine should be here in 20 more days so my camera is ready for review.
eh, I’m probably being a little too critical. A normal person would probably consider the replacement I received to be perfect. They might notice the piece of stray metal under the anodization in between the fins. The edges I’m referring to on the head aren’t likely to be touched during normal operation. It definitely is a great performer.
ordered this one some time ago and it never arrived…
Please pm your order number to CSgearbest (or to me)
that must be solveable 
PM sent.
You should be critical, what you describe would be passible in my book but I expect it as shown. If the words “small imperfections may be present” were stated then OK, let buyer make the call. I can only judge by my only XinTD V4 which is perfect for the $30 price range light. That light swayed me to this GB.
That’s just me being too critical 
…but glad your is fully functional.
I got it this morning !
Its very bright, i am now thinking about improving it : this wont be a problem if i add 4 380mah chips to the stock driver right ?
is what Tom E did iirc. Search back for some mod links posted back a few pages. I did same to V4 qlite driver so it’s an easy mod.
I also added 2 of them (lack of skills prevented 4)
Hi guys!
Unfortunately I had to edit the OP.
some tints raised in price…
Your skills are fine! Lol, it’s the cost of solid copper rod that makes my hands shake… copper, the new gold.
edit , sorry M4D M4X, no quote for me today…