I made a mistake earlier it is biscotti I flashed I will correct my post. No lighted tail cap.
I wonder if it is the cut traces then. Tonight when I get home I’ll Solder blob those back together.
Can you show us a photo? Usually such a “cut trace” cannot be easily soldered.
Here is a before and after but piss poor photos.
I scraped away a bit of the mask beforehand.
Unfortunately I forgot to check for continuity in the related parts before re-assembly.
But the light still behaves the same.
Photos are way zoomed in an attempt to show the fine detail of small parts. I may pull it back apart to test continuity, if I do Ill make another attempt.
https://i.imgur.com/BzoUXWm.jpg
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Ok I pulled it back apart to test trace repair/re-connect.
Pin5 to resister was good but there was no continuity to the middle pin of the 7135 chip, so I fixed that.
Now every thing functions as it should. :partying_face:
So this is my first successful flash.
I do want to try Babka just for the simple shortcut to battcheck as I have no use for any of the other blinkies.
Here is hopefully a better pic of the repair such as it is.
glad it’s functioning well
Hi guys. I have idea to flash original biscotti hex file on Ttiny84 because I only have it at moment and to try on bradboard how it’s work. Is that possible at all? Also I have questions is there any schematic of original biscotti driver used in Convoys flashlights and if they have also OTC capacitor.
Flashing the original hex file won’t work - those are compiled for a specific chip. At minimum, you’d need to recompile. Though with the ’84 you’ll probably need to make sure you’ve got the correct pins defined and such. Minor changes though.
You have to use -c stk500v1
Flash newbie here — is buying a driver from FastTech with “Nanjg 105c” in the name still the best path to success for flashing custom firmware?
https://www.fasttech.com/category/1612/diy-kits-parts-led-drivers?sort=r&keywords=Nanjg+105c
They don’t seem to be available in the 3 * 7135 driver configuration which I wanted for a safer light for a kid (i.e. no lighting things on fire even if I screw up the firmware).
Would any of these work:
https://www.fasttech.com/category/1612/diy-kits-parts-led-drivers?sort=r&keywords=1050ma+AMC7135
Or would I be better off getting a 5 * 7135 Nanj 105c and pulling off a couple 7135?
Side question, wth does “Nanj 105c” mean anyway? Thanks!
The Nanj 105c is a good driver and probably the simplest to work with. Some of the off brands I have seen in the past were mcu locked. I dont know if thats still true but I would order the Nanj to be safe. Buying attiny13a’s and replacing the mcu would fix the locked issue if need be. I would just buy the 8 amc735 driver and take off what ever is needed to achieve the current I wanted, then I would have spare amc7135’s. The 4 amc7135 board was single sided if you had rather have that (Nanjg 101).
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BLF has migrated to more of the FET+1 drivers now or a varrent. Lots of firmwares for these drivers if you get the ones with a attiny85.
The BLF crew is starting to branch out to a lot of other type drivers now, buck and boost, or both. Its a exiting moment seeing all this happen.
They are using more advanced MCU’s that are better and have lots of new features so the firmaware can have new better features.
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As far as I know the drivers at Simons store on Aliexpress work for reprogramming. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1012980984.html
Thanks for the reply — while I like your idea of removing 7135 chips and having spares, I have less faith in my micro soldering skills. I’m sure I can get them off but it might not be pretty. 
And I would prefer the cleaner layout of the single-sided board.
So the 4*7135 Nanjg 101-AK-A1 is ok, would the 3*7135 Nanjg AK-47A also be ok, it just needs to be a Nang board?
From what I gather Nanjg is the manufacturer of the board (not any of the components), is that correct? What do the other numbers refer to?
First time success flashing the green 3/5 mode convoy driver to Biscotti (after I followed advice of gchart for cutting the trace) :+1: I recommend the Pomona clip, it’s so much better than the cheap ebay one.
I pulled a red biscotti convoy driver out of a C8+ from Banggood because it’s buggy firmware. Flashing was successful but it’s still buggy. Is there another procedure that I need to do?
Either one should work. The mcu doesn’t know how many amc7135’s your using, there all wired parallel.
I forgot to mention that Mtnelectronics in the states has these as well for faster shipping.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=240
I have no idea what all the naming and numbers is about with these drivers.
I successfully installed the driver.
I assume the AVR tools are no longer needed. Correct?
https://www.microchip.com/mplab/avr-support/avr-and-arm-toolchains-c-compilers
I’m planning to buy a Convoy S2+ and/or S21A, and want to define my own mode group.
Is that possible?
I can’t locate the thread, but today I’ve read that some PCBs are glued into the flashlight and some not. It was an old thread IIRC. Is that still the case?
This is my first attempt at programming a flashlight, so I want to start out as simple as possible.
Convoy started to use many non-ATtiny drivers. Some are soldered to the pill, some have a retaining ring, some might be glued. Do you have everything else? ISP programmer, SOIC clip, source code? Some drivers are “locked” by pulling a pin high and you have to cut the trace.
I can’t help you with Windows, only Linux. Biscotti can be found in ToyKeeper’s repo (just google for ToyKeeper and flashlight-firmware).
AFAIK I have everything I need. I Both the software and hardware listed in the OP.
The only thing missing now are the flashlights.
As said above - about adding your own mode group, all depends on the driver, whether it's re-programmable with one of our versions of firmware or not.
This driver made it possible to flash with my new computer. I wasted many hours installing the same two drivers with Zadig, updating device drivers as well as uninstalling and reinstalling avrdude and the usbasp. Originally I could connect to my gxb172 driver a couple times in a row then nothing, rebooting the computer didn’t help. Then the next day it would work for a bit and flake out again. Then it stopped working all together, tried a different usbasp but no luck. Usb2 or usb3 port made no difference.
It wouldn’t ever talk to an 85 or 25.
I can now program a bare 25 if the jumper is set to five volts. I can program the gxb172 directly from arduino at both voltages, the baud rate is very slow so maybe the 25 can be programmed at 3.3 volts if I slow avrdude down. My old computer and the new computer are both windows ten. Flashing used to be so simple, not sure what’s so different about the new computer.
Next step is to order two new usbasp’s and do the firmware updates to get rid of the set sck error. Then get atmel studio working.
Might even try getting the usbasp working inside atmel studio. Looks pretty straightforward in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPcgjkQn2eE
Hey wizards. I would like to upload biscotti to the red Convoy driver and to 105C, but with 20 clicks to the settings. Unfortunately, when I change the value from 9 to 19 in this line:
if (fast_presses > 9) { // Config modethe LED lights up (or not) in the low mode and does not respond to clicks.
I tried different amounts of clicks and 14 clicks (value 13) is max.
Does this setting need major changes? Why can't it be easily changed?