The head is integrated. I mean the emitter shelf is 8mm thick for better heat sinking.
Sorry for bad english
The head is integrated. I mean the emitter shelf is 8mm thick for better heat sinking.
Sorry for bad english
Exaggerated lumen numbers those seem, Yoda says. According to the Cree documentation, a 2S2P N4 bin XHP70 emitter would be beaming ≈2300lm at 85°C.
5000-5500 lumens at 6'5A?
That is with the emitter riding on the Hulksink, in an integrating sphere collecting ALL of the output…
Sorry!
Cheers ^:)
P.S.: only low-CRI Crappy White and N00b White? Sheesh! :D
Will get one if reviews are positive and worth the price!
I wonder what it’s like to hold this light. It looks like it’s head heavy, so you have to grip it in front of the buttons where the cooling fins start to keep it balanced. Is it comfortable to hold in such manner for a long period of time…
Thanks for point that. In fact The body is much heavier than the head with the 4x18650 batteries installed. The balance is comfortable to hold.
Like the looks of this light as well. Will the led be mounted to on copper DTP star? I think a smooth reflector xhp35 hi would make a great thrower.
I like the heavy block vertical (Fins) heat sink(s) at and below the emitter shelf, having a integral shelf, this should do well to dissipate a substantial amount of heat! Hopefully the inner cavity walls are thick too!
From the OP i suppose so :
Man this thing looks thick and juicy…. me like very much so far…
The UI looks similar to the Olights with two switch improvements, which is great. Can’t wait to see what this thing can do.
I’ll PM my address to you
Thanks, I completely missed that when I first read it.
Have you tried to make a Shaved Dome to the XHP70? Should be a really nice thing to ~ double the intensity.
6,5 Amp drained from 4S battery or to the Led ?
With what and how they will be covered the control buttons? I hope it is not a glued plate
I’ll be watching this. I’d like an XHP70 and might like to see a choice of SMO and OP reflectors. I don’t hunt white walls.
If you are still picking emitters I can say without a doubt that if you want to appeal to BLF, try to get your hands on a nice neutral/warm (something in the ~4500k range like the 219’s) HIGH CRI LED.
Either XHP35 or XHP70, they are both offered in High CRI. Throwers in particular lend themselves very well to warmer tints IMHO and high CRI is always good.
Other then that ditto the rest, options are very good. I could very well end up with both an XHP35 and XHP70 version if the price is right.
If you are still picking emitters I can say without a doubt that if you want to appeal to BLF, try to get your hands on a nice neutral/warm (something in the ~4500k range like the 219’s) HIGH CRI LED.
Either XHP35 or XHP70, they are both offered in High CRI. Throwers in particular lean themselves very well to warmer tints IMHO and high CRI is always good.
Other then that ditto the rest, options are very good. I could very well end up with both an XHP35 and XHP70 version if the price is right.
Hello HaikeLite,
Not only do I agree with Mr. Ace, this seems to be the current trend as well. Manker is offering models with High CRI neutral white Nichia models, as well as Lumintop with the Tool Ti/Cu, Worm Cu and IYP365 models. Even mainstream Nitecore is offering the new TIP with these emitters… High CRI XHP70 would appeal to many here I think as well…
Specs looks good, amps to the LED, shelf thickness, DTP board are being mentioned which means you guys know your stuff. I’m curious about if you have made other flashlights before, maybe under another brand?
If you go with XHP-70, make sure to use the highest bin, and price it sensibly so it can compete with the Convoy L6.
If you go with XHP35 HI, target at least 450kcd because you’ll have two strong competitors from acebeam and trunite.
Have you tried to make a Shaved Dome to the XHP70? Should be a really nice thing to ~ double the intensity.
6,5 Amp drained from 4S battery or to the Led ?
Hi start90a
What do you mean by Shaved Dome?
6.5A drain to the Led.
Battery is 2S2P.
Thanks
With what and how they will be covered the control buttons? I hope it is not a glued plate
Metal plate with screws to cover the transparent button tight. Waterproof IPX8