Hey guys, Do you have ant input on this light? I bought last one on shelf. I do not want to open unless I plan on keeping it. But before that I need info of quality, etc… Otherwise, I will return it. Please advise. Thanks.
I can’t advise about the 15x LED but this reminded me that I have the same flashlight in a single emitter version that Harbor Freight sold many years ago, It’s also the 3x C battery configuration and looks exactly like the 15x LED one you have, except the head looks slightly different. It’s long discontinued and was replaced by the 15x LED version, which apparently is now also discontinued. (it’s not showing on the website) I did see the 15x LED in the store a while back and wondered about it too (can’t remember how much it cost) and that was the last time I thought about my single LED version.
I liked the light greenish color shiny aluminum body and rubber hand grip, I always thought it was such a great flashlight, it was very bright with a far reaching spot beam. But this was before I began getting deep into lights about 7 years ago…
It was chucked in a box and long forgotten many years ago. As soon as I read your post and remembered having it I immediately went and dug it out, hoping I didn’t leave batteries in it! (which luckily I didn’t) I unscrewed the head and much to my surprise it has a standard 20mm star mcpcb! It has “LUMILEDS” printed on the board, (Philips/Rebel/Luxeon?) It sits on an aluminum pill that is threaded into the body tube. But trying it tonight and seeing its weak bluish beam it’s hard to believe I actually thought it was great!
It’s DD, 0.00 ohms between the (+) emitter lead and the contact board in the bottom of the pill, and the (-) emitter pad is soldered directly to the pill. There’s a spring between the contact board and switch.
Just for kicks, since the 3S cells = 4.5v (3.6v with NiMH) I began thinking about a simple emitter upgrade, using an XM-L2 led/mcpcb that I removed from another light. Also maybe bypass the contact board spring or just remove it and wire the board directly to the switch. It has a deep SMO reflector (which appears to be plastic) but has a ringy beam, so maybe some DC-Fix would be the ticket.
You probably don’t want to push too much power with a plastic reflector, so still keeping 4.5V from alkaleaks might work fine. I’d use a generic 7135-based driver. Dunno what size driver you might fit in there, but personally I prefer regulation across most of the battery-life, vs a constant decline and inconsistent light levels.
Hell, from FT you can get a 20mm star with 1 or 2 7135s on it, no separate driver needed! 700mA is pretty decent, and won’t cook/melt/char the reflector.
Beam0, The exact reason i bought light was the blueish silver color of barrel. The last one on pegs. No wonder why it does not work AKA DOA. It goes back first thing tomorrow before I head into office.
Did you get a good deal on it? Have you checked to see what the problem might be?
But really it probably isn’t worth messing around with unless it was less than $10. It’s pretty amazing what you can get these days for $15-$20. I bought mine long ago before I knew what a real flashlight was, I wouldn’t buy one now knowing what I know but it’ll be kind fun to try and mod mine since I have it.
I paid $12.89 out the door. The light would not even turn on with brand new Energizers. DOA right out of sealed package. The reason I bought it was color of light, use as defensive tool if needed. None of it matters considering thing does not start up.
BTW, I do have the HF lube. Will go and buy another one. With the 20% coupon.
OK yeah don’t know what I was thinking :person_facepalming: I de-soldered it now, he contact board is actually nearly 24mm and the shelf is about 1mm wide, and only 2.3mm of room under the shelf.
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So it looks like the star with 7135 is the best way to go, not sure what kind of emitter it would use though it looks like the emitter wires get attached outside (not through the emitter base)
Maybe it would be easier to use this one, already has an emitter (warm white!):
It doesn’t say it can expand to 700mA but there’s the place to add a 7135 at 6:00, the question was asked (by two BLF members) in the discussion, but no one answered.
“Everything you can expect from a cheap generic emitter and an AMC7135 driver. I was surprised by the tint, very nice (if you like neutral/warm tints)”
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Or I could use something like these and just fit the 1050mA or 1400mA driver: