I searched and couldn’t find anything on this. Its sad that so many great lights have such a limited life because they cant easily be taken apart without completely destroying them.
I dont have a TK-70 and would love to have one… but only if I could mod it. So for the sake of discussion, has anyone been able to remove the bezel and reflector to get at the emitters? Are they mounted on standard type PCB’s?
I wonder if the bezel is threaded at the end and glued with copious amounts of thread-locker (ala typical fenix stupidity :Sp ). Perhaps a great deal of heat would destroy the thread-locker. Since most thread-lockers give up with high heat, I have even more questions.
Is the lens AR coated? If so, heat would obviously destroy the coating.
Does anyone think the reflector or other components would become damaged with heat?
I dont care if the finish is discolored or removed, just as long as the parts arent damaged during the surgery. There was an early discussion on CPF about the various unassembled parts of the TK70 with photos but now I cant find it.
I have several 10k mah D cells and a few chargers, but no light cannon to burn them in. PLEASE HELP! :bigsmile:
Cheap enough but Fenix uses threadlock as strong as concrete. I did a TK35 and it required long application of a propane torch, and it still took my full strength to twist the heatsink out, head clamped in a big bench vise.
Why mod it? It’s a nice light as is, and the tint is good.
Id love to, but not if I cant swap out the emitters. Was the TK35 locked with red or blue, or some other color, like a glue? Any info you can provide would be appreciated.
Also, does the TK70 have a real AR lens? If so, Id guess that the AR coating would be destroyed by heating the bezel with 3-4 propane torches from different angles. I can probably come up with my own mega strap-wrench using a leather belt and two 2 x 4’s.
I opened up a TK40 (MCE) a while ago to try it with an aspheric. Prefer the reflector though.
I had a hard time opening it. Soaking in hot water several times to soften the glue, clamp and vice for turning all to no effect.
Then I used a torch, and the glue gave away. I lost patience and heated a bit longer then the time before. The coating of the reflector was vanished, and what was left lost bond to the aluminium. (Reflector is glued to the bezel) So use heat careully, and give the gluetime to soften. Try and try and try one more time.
I don't know how the driver is mounted, with the TK40 it seems to be potted to some extend.
The glass was not plastic and I don't think it was AR.