I am in the process of building a new light. It’s a Convoy L2 host with an MT-G2 on a Noctigon from IOS and a 5A LCK-LED driver as recommended in the L2 Ideas Thread.
Anyways I assembled everything, chucked in some batteries and am not getting any power to the LED leads. Its not the switch as I tried shorting that and still nothing. One other thing that has me a little confused is if I check the resistance between the contact board earth ring and the battery spring in the centre - to the leads which power the LED there is a resistance on all combinations. I.E. Earth ring to positive lead, earth ring to negative lead, spring to negative lead and spring to positive lead. Whilst the ones which don’t make sense to me are a huge resistance they are still registering something. Is this normal? Any ideas of what I can check?
it could be shorting out, I’ve sometimes had to use a little insulation tape to isolate the positive from ground, its a dammed tight fit and on the last one, I just insulated before I started rather than risk it.
It should be completely open circuit imo between ground and positive, I can go and check that tomorrow if you wish as I have one here, but if I remember correctly, they do short out pretty easy and simply wont light, their a pretty tight fit too, on both of mine the shorts were between contact board and main board, I’d try taping up the driver side of the contact board then reassemble.
That driver will run an mtg2, I have one doing just that, so its not an issue with the mtg2 emitter (unless that’s where the short ends up obviously).
try removing the retaining ring, pull the assembly out and hook it up to two cells with some wires and an assistant if necessary, see if it lights up
I’ve used a magnet and tape to join two cells externally, if your really involved, two wires with crocodile clips can link the driver then just touch the cells with the other ends to test, you just want light for now
What I did was detached the driver board and upgraded the wires on the driver to 22AWG silicone ones, cleaned off all the solder blobs using some copper braid wick. Then the 22awg cable is 2mm in diameter so I drilled two small holes through the driver board, one up through the middle of the battery spring and one on the edge near the earth ring contacts. I covered the back of the contact board in Kapton tape then poked the driver wires through the contact board and soldered the positive to the base coil on the spring and soldered the earth to one of the earth ring contacts/retaining ring. It looks neat and works perfectly, it allowed me to push the contact board right up against the driver board as the hole I drilled were lined up with the wires on the driver.