They run cool at 1 amp and members here have run them at 1.4 amps on copper. 3 LZ1’s would be like a nice UV spotlight since I know what just one can do. As for a host, if I was to make a 3 LZ1 light for searching the beach for hours, I would use something like this.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=80&product_id=250
As for mounting a LZ1 on DTP copper, djozz is a master at modding a MCPCB. Doing something like this is like childs play to him.
Well, if you are up for a bit of DIY, and have an external battery pack like for a power drill, I would recommend this circuit to power your LEDs:
With a standard 12V tool battery you can power 3 LEDs in series, with 24 V (maximum voltage for this circuit) 6 are possible. With a standard tool battery (12 V, 2,0 Ah) you should achieve 2-3 hours runtime.
Those bicycle lamps you postet are nice, but I’m not sure how good they are for modding.
Maybe you can find something like this in a hardware store for cheap:
Once you have decided on a power source, choose a driver circuit that accepts the respective voltage, slap your LEDs in place and you are done.
The pictures you posted are cool, but most old reflectors for incandescent lamps are nor well suited for LEDs. It’s best you stick with a lamp that is already built for LED technology, as the reflectors should work well enough even it’s not the right kind of LED. Also you won’t have to worry about a custom heat sink.
If you chose a rechargeable light, chances are good that you will be able to use the installed power source and charging circuit.
Amber selected for djozz 
I’ll have a look at the links on the two previous post later. Thanks
uh. It takes me some time to answer, cause i have to look up all the (to me) unknown flashlight lingo
Calmaja that steam-punk flashlight/gun thing looks awesome! :heart_eyes:
Jubeldum, that Supfire looks nice. I like that the fact that each reflector is “whole”. I cant help but think that flashlights with triple reflector which have shared middle (don’t know what to call it) is going to have some spill.
whole reflector vs. reflector with “shared middle”:
vs
Yes, as I wrote earlier. I’ll give it a try modding my own surefire 6p with the chinese uv led. If i screw up, it’s no big deal. But for the more expensive setup with three Ledengin Z1 or three of the Nichia uv led’s I’ll need some help from one of the pro’s inhere. And of course I’ll pay for the work
At work I actually have a Makita flashlight. Only with one reflector though (the below is not mine -but that’s the model).
But I think at my current DIY skill level that’s not an option
I’ve done a lot of DIY on woodwork, but never really tried tinkering with electronics. But I like to learn, and I loooooove flashlights, so maybe I’ll give the more serious electronics DIY projects a try later on. For now my surefire 6p project is more than enough
Some of my latest woodworks (click for larger versions):
I too have no idea if they are usable.
In fact I’m not sure if I should go with a flashlight or a bicycle light.
I don’t have enough knowledge about the different flashlights and battery types to make a qualified “pros and cons” list about what to choose to suit my purpose.
Maybe someone could help me make a qualified discussion whether to go with flashlight or bicycle light .
My requirements would be:
p60 based ( for example http://www.surefire.com/illumination/flashlights/6p-original.html )
Pro:
Con:
Larger handheld (for example http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=54#.VMbPu8mODDc )
Pro:
Con:
External battery / bike light (for example http://www.fasttech.com/product/1527801-solarstorm-xt30-3-cree-xm-l-u2-4-mode-2400lm-led)
Pro:
Con:
Bump!
Any thoughts on my pro/con list for larger handheld vs bike-light? I’m still in doubt whether a bike-light with external power-pack would give any advantage over a handheld.
I ordered a p60 setup from customlites ( thread here ) - It’s for a gift -but I’ll use it myself until I get a setup of my own.
So the setup for myself will be either one NVSU233A
or a setup with three LED Engin LZ1
As for hosts for the two setups I’ve narrowed it down to either
Single led:
Uniquefire UF-1405 or Courui Big head or any other good host with lots of run-time. Haven’t been able to find single led hosts with 4x18650 or 4x26650
Tripple led:
DRY 3xCREE or FandyFire UV-S5
Any other suggestions would be much appreciated
I would loooove :heart_eyes: a host like the BTU Shocker but haven’t been able to find a bare host. I think buying a new one and then trash the led’s would be overkill.
Edit: Found a host kit!
I’ll wait and see the results of djozz’s tests before I make the final decision on a setup of one or three led’s.
Now I just need someone who can build it for me 
Those flashlights you want to put the uv-led in are enormous and can handle lots of current. Depending on what led you are going to use the current will be 1.5A max, and although big head lights throw better these 'modest' uv-leds feels a bit out of place in such a big light. IMO, if throwing a beam far away is the goal, a C8 style flashlight suits this led better, or the Uniquefire 1407 if a narrow beam without spill is preferred. And go for the Nichia led because the die brightness is higher than the Ledengin uv led, so it will throw further.
Getting cross-eyed from browsing the forum 24-7 for the last week :-p
As for the enormous flashlights. Well I’m easily impressed, and those big chunks of metals really impress me. I can relate to those of you who cant stop buying flashlights without really having anything to use them for. Must resist!!!
Still totally n00b here -sorry
“C8 style” refers to the head of the flashlight?
Some spill would be OK. My main requirements would be a good illumination at 0-10 meters. So you are absolutely correct. Not really a need for a long throw :shy:
Edit:
But I like the idea of a zoomie as I would be able to regulate between searching nearby (flood) and at a distance of 10-15 meters.
For a zoomy, you have to consider whether the lens transmits ultraviolet light. I think glass usually transmits the wave length you want. Most clear plastic has ultraviolet absorbing dye added to it, as UV is often a nuisance.
I read about Polycarbonate a week ago, when searching for info on what protection glasses to buy for UV-protection. And it turns out my Oakley glasses are made of Polycarbonate which blocks all wavelengths of UV light.
I did not know that zoom lenses was made of that kind of plastic. Thanks!
Now this looks fun.
This!
Plus this!
Instant tan!
I wouldn’t put it past Cereal Killer to build a UV abomination like that. He’s been known to build some monsters. J)
I got the amber samples in today. These are some quick pictures comparing three 365nm leds. I will have to think what further tests I can do. At least I have to build the Nichia led into a flashlight one of these days to get some more light out of it, this picture was made using the bare led connected to a led-tester at 50mA. And the exposures of the pictures should be comparable.
The left four pieces are brownish pebbles that were send together with the amber for comparison (good idea!), then a small scrap of copier paper to show how 'proper' bright fluorescence looks like, on the right are all pieces of amber (and there's a lot of dust on the black cloth, it appears 
). The camera was on daylight setting. The amber shows only mild fluorescence (in reality the difference between pebbles and amber is even less than shows on the pictures) so for amber searching at sea I suspect that you need a good beam intensity. The faint whitish visible light that the Ledengin and the chinese led put out besides the UV I think are in the way of identifying the amber because it is in the same intensity range as the fluorescence. I think that the Nichia wins for amber searching, but that a 365nm UV-light will not be a miracle tool for this. (time and Hestbech will tell..)
White light (Nichia 219B 5000K 92CRI):
Ledengin LZ1 360-370nm:
Royalighting RY-3535P 365nm:
Nichia NCSU276A U365:
Where I heard about this long ago, was for light pipes to channel light from ionizing radiation detectors. These pipes are usually polyester (Plexiglass, Lucite & I think Perspex). Since some of the light is UV, one must specify that the material be ultraviolet transmitting. They work by total internal reflection.
djozz -fantastic!!! I’m so thankful that you had the time to do the test. And do it for a total stranger. Its a BIG help. Ive been thinking about flashlights and amber 24/7 for the past 14 days. And browsing BLF 24/7 for the past week. I think I’m becoming a flashoholic. Already ordered my first two lights :shy:
Did you shoot the photos in complete darkness?
If you get the time, maybe you could take a photo with the Nichia and no white paper. Maybe the fluorescence from the paper is masking the fluorescence of the amber.
Oh -and I did a test with yellow glass in front of the camera. That also made the amber stand out by removing some of the visible purple light.
I’m a bit puzzled that my cheap crappy no-name 390-400nm uv light apparently gives better results than the Nichia???
Shot with my phone, lighted by my cheap uv light (total darkness, under my duvet):
Edit:
The German wiki (quote above) says amber is fluorescence from 320 to 380 nm
This page says 320 to 365 nm
So it makes even less sense that my cheap uv lamp at 390-400nm works.
…
Getting a headache :weary:
Oh screw it. I’ll make a lamp with a Nichia NVSU233A anyway!
Thanks Fritz t. Cat
I also read about UV pass filters here (scroll down to “Barrier Filters”)
Maybe I’ll do some tests on the Kood filer he mentions. (a Google search for “Kood Yellow designed for B&W” gives a lot of hits.
Maybe the difference is the amber samples?
Could be -but some of the smaller pieces are the same. I made a selection of different shades and mailed them to djozz.
