The spring bypass connects the spring directly to the positive lead on the LED, bypassing the PCB all together. I had been planning on using 18 AWG silicone wire (also from mtn) but I’m not sure if it will fit through the hole in the PCB. Here are my questions:
Will the stock 22 AWG instead of 18 AWG be fine for this build
If I wanted to go with 18 AWG would it be ok to use a drill and slightly enlarge the hole in the driver?
Would it be better to bypass the spring to the PCB and then run a wire from the board instead?
Is there anything else I should be aware of before starting?
Thanks for the datapoint! Do you think 22 AWG would be ok instead? I had thought about buying the 20 AWG teflon, but it’s currently out of stock at mtnelectronics. It also seems to have significantly fewer strands…
I’m not too concerned about heat since I doubt I’ll be running it on MAX for more than ~30 seconds at a time. I’m mostly just concerned that the wires will get damaged by having too much current going through them or that there will be a significant decrease in output. Given the lower Vf of the 219Cs, I’m guessing the output won’t be greatly affected by a 0.1V drop though….
I’ve built several S2+ triples using the stock fet 22 awg wires—- on average they pull around 10.25 amps for XPLs—Some as high as 11.75 amps
Ifind a bigger improvement was running a wire through the switch board from the tip of the spring directly to the switch,then add a small brass washer to the spring tip—I also started taking the spring of the driver and installing a brass button—this way you don’t compress your switch spring as much causing kinking of your wire