I’m glad the heatsink is a good fit. Let us know how it goes!
Unfortunately AMC7135’s are not adequate for 2x li-ions because they’re linear regulators and thus overheat from the excess voltage. A buck driver would be ideal in this case.
I’m glad the heatsink is a good fit. Let us know how it goes!
Unfortunately AMC7135’s are not adequate for 2x li-ions because they’re linear regulators and thus overheat from the excess voltage. A buck driver would be ideal in this case.
I am going to go boost with 1x18350 or maybe 1x18650 in an l2n or other sf host.
The heatsink is a decent fit. Will need to be wrapped in either copper or aluminum to be a nice snug fit, and the sf head will need a couple mins of filing to fit properly. But for$10.50 I am happy with it.
Thanks for the info on the lenses InfinitusEquitas.
I know Pulsar already selected a diode, but those 9mm 445's sound sweet. 3 watts output with 2.3 amps in (you can go higher, but reduces life). No active cooling necessary. Other than costing about $40 more, what is the down side of these 9mm diodes.
Do you have the diode yet Pulsar? I understand there is a bar code stamped on the back. DTR has some images to help you make sure you haven't been scammed.
The main downside, is visually there is almost no gain in how impressive the beam appears. Just as with flashlights, going from say 50 lumens to 500, or 1000, or 2000, the perceived increase in brightness is not linear. In order to approximate doubling of brightness of even a 1W laser, you'd need 4W.
Depending on small variations that do also exist from diode to diode, in terms of wavelength, the 1.8W laser I have is often seen by people as brighter while side by side with a 2.5W one.
Also driven at higher power, you end up generating a lot more heat, so lower duty cycles, and you use up batteries. For the sake of a having a burning blue laser, there is really no point (at present) to go over 1.5W imo. Personally I even enjoy much lower powers more, since they are more comfortable to see without goggles indoors.
I believe Pulsar is buying from DTR.
Thanks again InfinitusEquitas. Great info. Sounds like Pulsar made a really good diode selection. Will he be able to use modes (using PWM) to effectively reduce output for low level use when he wants too?
You can reduce the perceived brightness by PWM but it doesn’t get truly safer like a non-pwm lower current would.
The individual pulses are still full current & with lasers high power pulses carry danger that pwm leds don’t. Pulses shouldn’t be more dangerous, or anything, it just a false sense of actual lower power & false sense of lower risk that it could give people.
Yeah, I will be getting my diode from dtr most likely after Xmas. They are pretty pricey and the kids presents have to come before my toys lol.
Not sure yet if I will have the cash for the driver this payday or not yet.
Just wanted to note here also, from date of order to arrival was 12daysfrom Israel m
Thanks Helios-. You and InfinitusEquitas sure seem to know your stuff. Great to have you here.
The original 445nm blue diode projector was A140 but I don’t know if anyone would think they are old enough to be “retired”. Everything is worth a shot tho. Tons of diodes in a single projector. Could always find one being sold due to being a damaged or maybe they upgraded for higher resolution or wifi.
C@sio XJ-A140
Likely any c@sio “laser & led hybrid” should have 445nm blue diodes. The a140 & m140 were/are just the most cost effective when buying new one just the strip out the diodes.
I still have the shell to an a140 somewhere. Long devoid of diodes.
Also nothing at all wrong with good old A130/140 diodes. They can't be driven as hard, but for 1W builds or lower power builds there is absolutely not reason not to use them :D
Was it the a130 that was the original one that was stripped for diodes? :zipper_mouth_face:
Yup, it was the original 1W blue laser diode. I think more of those than any others were fried :)
I would be in for some bargain bin diodes at the right price. But how much would it cost to get the little focusing lens thingy to put it in and how hard is it to install the diode in those?
That's a good question. I have trouble enough working with small flashlight stuff. That looks like a whole new level of smallness.
To the laser guru’s, review says this thing can pop balloons, cut tape? at 50mw!!?
And what is everyone’s preference for beam tint? 473nm looks like a pretty light blue, 450nm a dark blue, and 405nm purple? Do I have it right?
-Jamie M.
Well, I decided against the L2m host for this... for now at least
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As you can see, I decided against getting the driver this week, and I got the L2n host in grey. That will give the the choice of either a boost or buck driver for now. And, as you all know, blue and grey go together like... I dunno... deer steak, butter and onions
And yes, I do have a fairly large order of blue boots coming from IOS, that is taking forever.
At a very close distance, with black tape, or a black balloon, it would be possible to do that with 50mW 405nm, but it wouldn't be easy or fun. You really need over at least 100mW of 405nm to do things like that, or preferably more. Even more with other wavelengths since since they are not absorbed as quickly.
You have the wavelengths right... 473nm will cost you quite a bit more though since it's dpss. It's a nicer lighter blue color. Personally I prefer the goold old 532nm green. Of course 594nm is nice too, but it's much more expensive.
The problem with buying lasers like that from wholesaler china guy, is you never know what you're going to get from one laser to the next. I suggest one of the more reputable companies instead, like jetlasers, or laserbtb.