A couple of thoughts. First, what weapon are you mounting the light on? Handgun? Long gun? In any case you want something that will take the recoil and not screw-up. Stick w/ a single mode light, no chance of output changes when you don’t want them.
What batteries? LiIon rechargeables? Lithium primaries (CR123)? If you’re in the field then stick w/ CR123s, no charging needed and the cells will last 10+ years.
I’d suggest a SolarForce L2T. It’s a clone of the Surefire Z series weapon-lights, its tough and will mount easily. Add a single mode XM-L2, a charger + 2-3 18650s, and a dozen CR1234s and you’re good to go.
I think I need some answers before choosing a flashlight.
Batteries - I have these (2 of each) Dropbox - Error - Simplify your life
Can I use them? They don’t have both sides flat… (can I remove the bump some how?)
Also, can I use 2 cr123 batteries instead? Which configuration is better?
Btw, someone just told me I can get cra123a batteries for free at the radio department anytime,
so that can help with saving money.
And if flashlight supports cra123a batteries or 16340 does it mean it supports the other one as well?
2. Light color - any major difference between 6000K-8300K? Which shade is better for me?
4. I’ve been searching around for information and found this topic - Cree, Luminus, Seoul Semiconductor, and Nichia LED comparison
Can I just assume that the one that generating most lumens at, let’s say, 300mA, is the brightest one?
So if the led and the battery are determinate the lumens, how does the host matter?
Is hosts are just for zooming, different glass in the front and heat management?
I think I’m missing something important… :~
It isn’t so easy at all brighter means not more useful…
Because a light like a 502 with xml will make more lumens but if you are outside and shine on a far object the xpg2 will be better to see it.
There is lumen and throw necessary. But this depends on what you want. A deeper reflector gives more throw but is also bigger in size(like a c8). There is also a differents if the reflector is smooth(thrower) or orangepeel(Floodier). Given the same current and reflector a xpg2 will throw further than a xml because the light emitting surface is smaller.
I wouldn’t recommend a 502 because they aren’t so reliable and good build like a convoy. Convoys are the best budget lights, high quality cheap price.
If you want p60 like the 502b check out solarforce, these have nice hosts and drop ins which are useable with either 18650 and cr123a.
They also offer forward clickyswitch which is what most soldiers like.
Your batteries have no label? Why? what cells are this?
The miller charger will charge them if it are 18650 liion cells.
I read here somewhere that the cheap wires switches tend to fail, is this something you need.
Light colour depends on what you like 3000k is warm white 5500k is around neutral white like sun light and above there is cool white/blue tint.
If I give up the zoom function I definitely need a flashlight that designed to throw light…
So the xpg2 with smooth reflector is the best even it’s much less bright?
And as I said before I want to but a simple flashlight, if It won’t be enough I’ll buy another one.
My batteries are li-ion (came from 2 different powerbanks),
3000mAh, 2 micr18650f8 and 2 mrc18650 (I think).
Both couples are definitely rechargeable.
And I didn’t understand about the cr123a batteries.
If I can use 18650 battery I can also use 2*cr123a batteries,
Or the host need to be modified for using both types?
The driver(electronic circuit) has to be build for the use of cr123.
One 18650 has 4.2V fully charged, if you now use two cr123 these have 2*3V so 6V.
That is why on some drivers there is written 3-6V or such things.
The dimension of 18650 are 18mm diameter and 65mm long
a cr123 is 16mm in diameter and 34mm long
That is why cr123s in a flashlight for 18650 can rattle a bit, if this disturbs you could use tape to make it thicker.
The batteries in the picture look naked, if this is the case you should shrink wrap them. Search the forum for info about that for example here
Most flashlights use the aluminum body as a path for negative connection(like on cars) if the bare cell has contact with a bad spot of annodization in the inner tube you could get problems for example a always on flashlight.
You also should be aware of modes, in most cases it is useful to have different brightness which can be select with a short off/on over the power button. But I am unsure if this is very useful for a rifle mount because it will always change the mode if you only shine it momentarily…maybe a one mode drop in is the best….
Have you checked solarforce?
Dropins available with different modes.
really good quality and the dropins also work for cr123s, wiresswitches also available but it will cost around 30$ for a light and dropin and 15$ for the pressure switch tail cap.
maybe some of the p60 connoisseurs can chime in because I don’t have different dropins to compare…
If you are curious how the different led behave in terms of throw and light output you can simply buy a second dropin for your p60 host. That is the advantage of this style of light.
I wouldn’t call a p60 host a thrower, because of the small reflector. You can search the forum for the threads of hunters searching a light. The most guys seem to favor C8 or a Jacob a60 because of the throw…
If you give up the cr123a compatibilty a convoy C8 maybe a good candidate.
Actually I peel 2 of them because they had glue and some sponge from the powerbanks.
I have some shrink tunes at home so I can fix that if necessary.
It okay that they have the + bump? And that the bumps are different?
Cause I’ve seen 18650 that has flat at both sides.
About solarforce, 30$ is too much currently. As I said,
If ~10-15$ flashlight won’t be good enough I’ll but a better one,
So I’ll probably take ultrafire 501/502b.
I just need to know if my batteries will work with it and with the chrager I mentioned.
If the + bump is the highest point of the cell it will work in every case if that isn’t the case some flashlights/driver which don’t have a spring on the positive side can’t make contact. If the batteries are quality cells can be only found out if you have the shrink wrap and Google the numbers which are written on it.
If they have a too small bump to make contact you could make a solder blob on them, if you have a soldering iron.
Thanks!
I understand that smooth reflector won’t be good if the led is perfectly centered,
What I assume will happen in a cheap flashlight.
Can I replace the reflector itself or replacing it means replacing the whole drop in?
The orangepeel reflector give a smoother hotspot and spill, smooth reflectors sometimes produce rings which you can see if you shine on a white wall. In nature it often is no problem but some dislike it.
Yes, These 502b are p60 Hosts, that means you can simply change the dropin.
You can also build a dropin by yourself if you want.
These Dropins have the disadvantage to be not ideal in thermal management, because they naturally have a bit of air between them and the flashlighthost. some people wrap them in aluminum/copperfoi to make better contact to the housing and to be able to drive the LEDs with higher currents… Search the forum for info. http://flashlightwiki.com/P60 http://flashlightwiki.com/DIY_P60
I had some time yesterday so I saw some reviews on youtube,
and I wasn’t very impressed of the wf-501B throw. (Curenntly it’s 25$ for everything I need.)
I saw the ultrafire C8 which is much better thrower,
but but almost couldn’t find any with 1 Mode (I defenitly need 1 mode only)
Is it possible to mod 5/3 mode to 1 (High only)?
I saw this guide -
but i’m not sure this is the right way… he removed the driver.
It is possible to mod it to one mode, the way this guy makes it is just a direct drive…you often can simply remove a capacitor or do other mods if you have a soldering iron…
As everybody said a c8 is the way to go for a small thrower… Convoy c8 is great value for money, driver is well known and modeable. 13.99$ with coupon: NEWC8CM
3xaaa to 18650 adapters onlly work in lights which are made for it. Theses adapters are usually around 21mm wide and don’t fit in a 18650 battery tube which is around 18-19mm wide…
Defenitly buying it. (isn’t this the same as Ultrafire C8?)
Can I mod it to 1 mode with soldering iron?
What does it means 2 group mode?
Do I tell them which I want or I have both and have the ability to switch?
The form is similiar on all c8 but the convoy has superb quality. Much thicker material, better anodizement and goodthreads.
These convoys have a nanjg105c driver which has two mode groups in stock. You can switch between the groups if you switch the light on in low, wait some seconds until it blinks, half press and now you are in the other group.
It can be modded to one mode by bypassing the controller, that would give you always high 2.8A.
These drivers also can be reprogramed with other firmware which has your dreammodes. You will need a computer with USB and a USB programmer for some bucks…this would be the best because you would maintain batteryvoltage detection.
Once you have your light you can simply make a new thread, I guess this one here just gets read by us two
This is one option, not sure if it is the best solution but it will work 100%.
Check this pictures.
The leg PB1 of the controller switches the 7135s on, if you now connect this with VCC it is always high…
A much nicer way would still to reprogram that controller or to buy one which is reprogrammed to one mode with battery monitoring…
