Help - Newbie question

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

Hi All,

After spending most of Saturday reading up on different flashlights on this forum and others I need a little help.
I’m currently looking at the Convoy S2+/S3 , BFL a6/Astrolux s1 as a torch for my kids/wife for general use and use while camping.
Im also looking at the Astrolux S2/Astrolux SS as another option and I am wondering how much of a difference the SS model makes.

What I’m wondering is which would be better for extended periods of use (30min+) without getting to warm.
I read that the higher modes get hot so I’m wondering which modes would be suitable for normal use and what sort of run time you would get out of them

I don’t see these being modded any time soon if that makes a difference.

Also if anyone can suggest some nice Cells for these that are easy to get from Downunder that would be great as most of the links I see for buying the batteries seem to be in the states.
I’m thinking I would like some 18350’s as well as the 18650’s.

Edit: also any suggestions on which led tint to get would be great,

2

Since you said you want your kids/wife to use the flashlight, does that mean you want the flashlight to NEVER get too hot, no matter how high of a mode your kids/wife runs it at?

For example, for the Convoy S2+, you can choose 3x7135, 4x1735, 6x7135, or 8x1735 chips. More chips means brighter output at the highest mode, but more heat. If you want to make SURE your kids/wife can NEVER burn themselves, you need to pick a lesser chip configuration, like 3x or 4x. This is also true if you don’t want your kids to blind themselves with a 1000 lumen burst from high or turbo.

3

If your wife and kids are going to use it you may want to consider the ui. I handed an astrolux s1 to my dad, he got it stuck in strobe and couldn’t figure out the ui before he quit in frustration. Some people can only handle very simple lights apparently. Gave him a cheap Coast that only turns on and off. He might discover the zoom one day.

4

I would say that my kids are big enough and smart enough to know if something is getting to hot and what to do about it if I show them how to use it. (kids are 12 and 14)

so never get to hot is probably overkill. I was thinking about the 6x7135 config as a sort of compromise .

and yes the ability to make is a basic flashlight with only a few modes would be a good idea I think. Did I read that the A6 has different modes available?

5

I think 6x7135 is OK if you don’t mind the head getting quite warm at the highest mode, but still manageable.

My personal preference is 3x7135 for the 18350 lights to get the most runtime, 4x1735 for the S series, and 6x7135 for anything with a larger head. I don’t need 8x7135 because where I live (Silicon Valley), I don’t really need that much brightness. Also, even with a 6x7135, I usually use the low or medium modes on my night walks, because the high mode is quite bright, and ruins the nighttime mood and atmosphere, plus it could scare or blind people or bicyclists also walking or riding on the trail.

6

I personally would not give 12 y.o. kids a light that runs on (removable) Li-ion. Kids those age might try to short circuit the cell deliberately. But that’s just me. I’d stick with AA lights.

7

I’m not worried to much about the kids trying to destroy the batteries. we have had RC car’s, Planes and helicopters around here since they were born and its never been an issue with any of the lion cells for them

as for the driver, does the A6 driver allow for better heat control as it only has the 1 x 7135 and a Fet. allowing for lower lows and higher highs in one driver? can you program the A6 to cut out the turbo modes in normal use?

edit: ok quick look on the A6 firmware page , it seems that you cannot disable the turbo mode , only really change between 4 mode and 7 mode options.

8

G'day Scorpia,

I suggest you consider the BLF X6-SE V2/Astrolux S2/Astrolux SS torches, these use ToyKeeper's Superb Bistro firmware/UI. Bistro was developed after the A6's firmware (also ToyKeeper's creation).

This firmware enables you to configure a multitude of mode groups, including "Muggle Mode":

~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25 : Contents of ToyKeeper/bistro/bistro.txt @Revision 208 (by ToyKeeper) (Rev 206 used by Manker for BLF X6/X5)

http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/tiny25/view/head:/ToyKeeper/bistro/bistro.txt

Astrolux S2 U$24.99 CREE XPL-HI 1400LM EDC LED Flashlight 18650

http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-S2-CREE-XPL-HI-1400LM-EDC-LED-Flashlight-18650-p-1037831.html

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Start Quote -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Configuration options:

The config mode has several options.  It will blink out a number to 
show which option is active, then "buzz" or "stutter" for a bit.  
Click during the "buzz" to select that option.  Some options may 
enter a secondary config mode after the light turns back on.

Options include:

  1. Muggle mode / simple mode.  Good while lending the light to 
     others.  It overrides other config settings temporarily:
     - low/med/high, in that order, with high at about half power.
     - no moon, no memory, no medium-presses, no hidden modes
     - the only config option is the option to exit muggle mode

  2. Mode memory.  Off or on.

  3. Moon.  Select to turn moon mode on or off.  This is in addition 
     to the other regular modes, so you get 2 to 9 levels when moon 
     is enabled.

  4. Mode order.  Low to high, or high to low.

  5. Mode group.  Choice of 1 to 6 regular modes from low to turbo, 
     or one of 3 special groups.  After clicking, the light should 
     come on in a special group-select mode.  In this mode, it 
     slowly blinks 9 times, pauses, then repeats.  Turn the light 
     off after N blinks to select mode group N.
     The mode groups are: (output is approximate)

     1. 1300 lm only
     2. 8, 1300 lm
     3. 8, 235, 1300
     4. 8, 104, 506, 1300
     5. 8, 75, 254, 642, 1300
     6. 8, 50, 167, 366, 757, 1300
     7. 140, 1300, strobe
        (police modes)
     8. bike flasher, battcheck, 8, 140, 1300
        (biking modes)
     9. 4, 36, 140, 500, 1300
        (like group 5 but lower)

     Example: To select group 3 (low-med-high), let it blink three 
     times then click the button.

     Note: 140 lm means 100% on the 7135 channel, while 1300 means 
     100% on the FET channel.  Both are no-PWM modes.

  6. Medium-press.  Off or on.  If on, a medium-press will allow 
     going backward through the mode sequence, and hidden blinky 
     modes will be accessible.

  7. Thermal calibration.  Set the temperature at which the light 
     will begin stepping down to cool itself off.  After clicking to 
     select this, the light should turn on in a special thermal 
     calibration mode.  It will start at a medium-low brightness, 
     wait a second or two, then step up to turbo.

     - To turn off thermal regulation, click within the first second 
       (while the output is relatively low).

     - To set a new maximum temperature, leave the light on until 
       you think it is too hot, then turn it off.  From this point 
       on, the light will use that new temperature as its maximum 
       allowed heat.

       Note that there may be a delay between when you feel the heat 
       and when the MCU feels the heat, so the value saved may be a 
       little bit lower than expected.</code></pre>



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End Quote -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


 


Best Regards,


George
9

You can also trim the danger possiblities by getting short tubes for 18350 cells. This has the added benefit of allowing the use of 16340 primary cells as well. A6, X6, S1 all share this capability.

10

+1 for anything using bistro with muggle mode. It sounds like you and your kids are wise with li cells. So, go bright if your going at all. Especially If you are looking at more than one light. Get atleast one with an fet+1 driver set the thermal regulation to a good temp(bistro required) and then you have the brightest light in town :wink: this way, if you need less light you’ve got it and if you need more, you’ve got it and then some:)

Note: this may or may not be bad advise;)

11

Will those lights run on 3v primary cells?

12

No

13

G’Day George :wink:

That muggle mode does seem like a nice option. it does seem to fix most of my issues with the s2+ and the A6. pitty you cant get that driver with those lights.
I’m assuming the torch can be left in muggle mode if required.

So now my question is does the nice Stainless/copper SS version make any difference? it looks great but at a decent cost difference.

ah well , I will probably just get both :slight_smile:

Also if I’m buying from Banggood is there some batteries that I should purchase while I’m there?

14

I Do like the idea of the 16350 size cell’s.

I currently have a on the road m3 currently on the way to play with because I liked the size.

Any ability to swap batteries and sizes between the lights looks good.

(here we go, I’m already looking at modding)
Is it possible to get the driver board with the bistro firmware so it could be fitted to the S2+ and or A6 type lights?

15

Yes, you can get the X6/X5 driver with Bistro from Banggood:

U$8.99 BLF X6 X5/Astrolux S2 S3 SS SC Flashlight Driver

http://www.banggood.com/BLF-X6X5-Driver-ATTiny25V-Based-and-FET7135-Power-Channel-Configuration-p-1051559.html

Note that there is a discount code for it (makes it U$6.50): bistro

Btw, I have used this driver in the A6 & it is a Very Easy replacement. (17mm driver)

But the Convoy S2+ will require a DTP MCPCB.

Best Regards,

George

16

Yes, the torch can be left in the Muggle mode (or any other) until you change/reconfigure it.

The SS/Cu version with its Copper section that houses the driver & DTP MCPCB enables better heat dissipation.

But it is much heavier than the Al version, but it is a Beautiful light.

I have both the SS/Cu & the Al versions & both are Great lights.

Re batteries get these:

U$11.59 2PCS INR18650-30Q 3000mah 20A Power Li-ion Battery for Samsung | Banggood

http://www.banggood.com/2PCS-INR18650-30Q-3000mah-20A-Power-Li-ion-Battery-for-Samsung-p-1015666.html

And you get them for U$8.49 with M4D M4X's code (PM me if you want the code).

Best Regards,

George

17

Well, thanks for all the updates.

I have ordered some batteries and i am starting with a Convoy s2+ with 4 drivers from banggood.

I will also be ordering a Astrolux S2 once the funds allow and then i will look into other lights.

In the meantime i will do some more research on runtimes and see how these run once they arrive.

I will be ordering more as i want at least 1 torch each for the 4 of us.

18

Your only problem will be the need for a direct thermal path copper mcpcb. The lights you mention have aluminum heatsink with a layer between the led and heatsink. The max power for these types of boards is 2.5-3amps. The drivers you ordered will be capable of 4-5amps and will cause the led to over heat if left on the current mcpcb. You can order new LEDs already on the dtp mcpcbs or order the mcpcbs and transfer the led yourself. To do it yourself you will need a stove with your wife’s favorite pan :wink: or a heat gun.

You can order the LEDs or mcpcbs from mtnelectronics.com. The lights you have will require the 16mm size.

19

A6 is a great light the driver is very nice . i think the light is still on sale for 20$… $5 less than we all paid
If you don’t use LMR high power batteries the light is not going to get as hot
I’d get either a 3d or the 5a tint … neither is great but better than a standard bad cool white emitter .

20

You will have to change the Convoy S2+'s Non DTP Aluminium MCPCB, to a DTP Copper MCPCB. Otherwise you will "cook" the LED with the Bistro driver.

Btw, the BLF A6/Astrolux S1 use a DTP Copper MCPCB, so if you replace the A6 driver with the Bistro driver there is no problem with LED heat dissipation.

Best Regards,

George