I have a HD2010 only a week.
it was a well-finished but without brand of tmart
the reflector was well finished.
After one week there was attack around the LED that slowly propagated to the center.
I have carefully polished reflector but it deteriorated incredible.
Now I should like him to polish copper it’s all gone
never seen a fragile reflector.
anyone know they sell new quality reflectors for the HD2010?
Howdy!
Unfortunately there isn’t any shop that sells spare reflectors for hd2010, at least i don’t know. A lot of us are seeking it, but it can’t be bought alone.
Well, next time you won’t even touch your reflector 
Was this in the form of a whitish haze that formed around the led? I’ve had a similar thing happen with hd2010s if the thermal path on the led wasn’t good.
The led get’s way too hot and starts smoking which can destroy the whole reflector, and that’s easily possible in a DD light with an aluminium pcb and often badly applied thermal adhesive.
I always disassemble these lights now and make sure things are good before running them at high currents.
The led could also have some type of contamination on it that burned off. You can't clean a reflector by touching it with anything. I clean mine by spraying with window cleaner, then spraying with water and then using high pressure air (canned air), to blow off all of the droplets before they start to dry off. If that does not clean them, then the reflector is usually ruined. If it is an aluminum reflector, you can remove all of the finish with 1000 grit sandpaper (wet sand and it takes a while) and when you are down to the bare aluminum, you can use polish to make a halfway decent finish.
yeaaah @stiletto We are so smart that every day we reflector with steel wool scouring :*
yes it was burned by heat so.
noctigon dedome xml2 a1
the flashlight never felt warm just slightly warmer after the walk.
it fell all the way to the crome is very sensitive to the HD2010 for damage not seen in other flashlights.
I’m completely in excel but it seems to me obtained under the chrome yellow
I’ve polished affair with the dremel but it remains mat with a yellow color now
The torch is now giving much flood and the spindle is maximum as mid or low not high
anyone have experience with spray cans chrome or something?
Let chromium at a specialist? that moto parts chromeert
You will probably get better results polishing the bare aluminum. I haven't attempted this, but a few members have with pretty good results.
I’ve polished but the metal is yellow
it is not pure aluminum but a kind of yellowish brass copper equivalent.
No matter what product I use it remains mat color, I do not blink at.
all options very welcome
With modification, you may be able to get this one to fit if the outer diameter is near 58mm:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1617/10006855/1543402-52mm-aluminum-smooth-smo-reflector
This thread has some information, but identifies no available replacement:
You'll get to aluminum if you keep polishing.
Btw, the reflector isn't coated in chrome, it's coated with aluminum in a process called aluminum vapor deposition.
No matter how much you polish your reflector, it'll never be as good as new. Maybe that's okay, but if not, you can ditch the reflector and install an aspheric lens.
Soaking in acetone will most times either bubble up the coating, or at least soften it so it's easier to scrape off. It will take way too long to get rid of all of it just by polishing.
Reflectors CAN be cleaned without scratching - use cotton balls. Paper towels, tissues, etc. are all far too rough and will destroy the finish. Cotton balls will not, even if used dry. Cotton ball + a little isopropyl alcohol works great for fingerprints and smudges - you MUST make sure all dust/dirt/debris is gone first though. Spray with alcohol, rinse with water, then clean with cotton balls.
i find these on internet
chromium
Self chrome ?
Small objects ( eg nuts and bolts ) you chromium yourself. You have a glass jar , vinegar , a cube of pure chromium (available at a plumbing or electricity thing) and a voltage source is required. The power source must provide 12 to 20 volts DC. You can also use a ( car ) battery before.
Proceed as follows:
Make it chroming workpiece completely clean and free of grease .
Fill the jar with vinegar .
Connect the negative pole of the power source to the chrome piece .
Connect the positive terminal of the power source to the block chrome.
Both Immerse yourself in the vinegar .
Make sure you completely free piece hangs in the vinegar .
Turn on the power .
If all is well , you see some bubbles appear and your piece dull / blue.
The chrome will take several hours . At a higher voltage is slightly faster .
After plating is a somewhat rough dull layer on the workpiece . With fine sandpaper to roughen you . For a high gloss you will need polishing.
When the metal plating in this manner, the chromium - molecules to be transported by the flow of the pad toward the workpiece to be chromium plating . Instead of a cube of pure chromium can also use an old chrome object . If it is larger than the object you have enough chrome to chrome to run this process.
Remember that it really chromium surface must be completely clean and free should hang . In vinegar Every place is still dirty chrome will not adhere . The gloss is not automatic . This has to be there yet. Furiously polished In real chrome parts are copper plated first . That goes the same way . Of course, do you need a block. Pure copper
I have it professionally chromium in a company, then it seems to me effeckt to be about the same whether the original HD2010 reflector, and much more durable and more heat resistant too?
Hmm, I wonder how much shipping would be to you? I have one sitting around where I bored it out around the LED so it could fit up in the reflector more for a better hotspot. I switched over to an aspheric so it's just sitting here.
there is one little company about 10 miles (+–10-15 klm) here arround that chrome things like motocycle bikes etc…
maybe better than the Original reflector 
Again, it's not chrome. Chrome is a very tough coating, and you would not be able to remove it so easily. Also, an aluminum coating is about 50% brighter than a chrome coating. That reflective layer in automotive headlights and most mirrors is there from aluminum vapor deposition for the last 60+ years.
As to why there's a copper or brass layer, I'll admit that I don't know for sure. One source mentions that a copper layer can prevent electromigration of the overlying aluminum layer, but I don't see how that would matter unless the reflector was designed to carry a current. Another source says that in early headlights, copper was electroplated over the brass base material that made up the reflector. The copper served to smooth the surface, and then an aluminum layer was electroplated over that. The same process seems to be used with flashlight reflectors, except the reflector is made of aluminum instead of brass.
This set of videos might provide more details, and if not, leaving some comments would probably yield the answers we desire from the uploaders.
Hey JonnyC, If he doesn’t want your bored out reflector I will take it. The hotspot on my new HD2010 is really bad so I was looking for a solution. I am in NY so shipping First Class mail is no big deal to me. By the way, did you see a big improvement in the hotspot?
PM'd
There's no copper or brass layer in the plating, the part that turns gold when you try to clean/polish them is the clear topcoat, whatever that's made of. I've damaged enough and then scraped them down to bare metal - there's a clear layer, then a silver metallic layer underneath.