Hi all,
Would someone be able to identify the LEDs, and tell me if it’s worth salvaging the board/LEDs? The internals are kinda toasted, with 0 continuity across multiple components.
LEDs are in a busted downlight, discontinued.
Company: SHINE GLORY LIGHTING LTD
Model: BL-D6-13YYZZ
Driver: unknown
Input:120V AC, 0.125A
Power: 13W
Lumens: 1100
CCT: 3000k
Thanks in advance!
Looks like any 6V 2835 type LED would do, as long as they can handle 1W each.
Even 3030 emitters generally fit on a 2835 footprint, I highly recommend SunLike 3030s which are ultra high CRI and available in 6V on AliExpress for under $5 for a 20 pack.
I kinda wanted to try fanagling an anduril 2 portable desk lamp :3
**I want to say the site listed these as 90cri, they came out of a damp/dry rated fixture in the bathroom.
Why would you want to do that? I could see the appeal of the desk lamp, but why use Anduril for it when there are other choices? After wasting about an hour yesterday trying to get Anduril to malfunction so little I could get some benefit out of it I’ve decided I’m not buying anything else that uses it.
The time might not have been completely wasted, it could be a warm up to switching an old laptop to Linux.
What is the problem? After going through maybe 35 lights that Use different flavors of Anduril, I have yet to have one that is unusable. Just curious… Maybe someone can help you out with it.
Mainly because it has one of the more efficient NiMH regulated drivers on the planet. 70 lumens for 3 hours? ×5 for a NiMH Dcell? Multiple cells in parallel! Imagine a base that could take 4 d cells in parallel, thats nominal 40Ah vs. 2 in a standard eneloop, or 20x the runtime at most given brightness levels. I don’t remember exactly, but I believe on a full f15 running around 150 lumens, my runtime was somewhere around 2.5-3.5 hours. If we did 4×26650@ 28Ah as opposed to 1.5Ah, we would get at least 40 hours of runtime at that brightness level. Even if we bumped the draw up to around 2A, we’d still get around 12 hours of brightness at a 350-400 lumen level, that’s not too shabby for a desk lamp, in my opinion.
In my case, I think I’d stick to NiMH D cells. I’m trying to come up with a water resistant collapsible cell holder design, and I’m thinking nested sprung adapters.
Yeah, that’s about the same ratings as a “100W” hotwire bulb equivalent.
Could probably run directly off the mains with just a capacitive dropper. Or maybe even an old ballast from, say, an 8W fluorescent fixture.
The problem was I read the directions, I followed the directions and couldn’t achieve the desired effect. Even after doing the reset recommended for use after not being able to get the light to respond as desired multiple times.
I had wanted (and it was definitely a want and not a need) to get the candlelight mode to activate for an event we went to tonight but gave up on it and used my Convoy T3 again. Time for the anduril light to go back in the junk drawer.
I’m glad it works for you. If I didn’t have other lights that served me needs and didn’t want to try some of the extra features some people rave about I probably would be happy with the light I have with it. But I’ve got other lights that serve my needs better and made the mistake of reading the directions on how to use one of those other effects, followed the directions on how to achieve the desired effect and failed to get the light to malfunction so little it would work. So the anduril light goes back in the junk drawer and I go back to something that serves my needs better.
Typically, that’s a 3h, a.k.a. “click + click + click AND hold”. That’s 3 clicks, keeping the last click held until the modes activate. In candle mode, holding the button alternates brighter and dimmer, where too bright and too low will eliminate the flicker effect.
On older firmware, like mine, april 20, 2024, it will memorize the last submode within that grouping if you specifically reenter that grouping. It’s like if anduril is a house with rooms, and you went into the bedroom subgroup, and remembered to leave your wallet on the bed. If you need your wallet, you enter the bedroom and go straight to the bed.
A 2c, or double click, will advance the mode, like moving your wallet to the desk, then to the closet, then to the hamper, etc., but it’s still within the bedroom subgroup.
A hold (1h) in party strobe/normal strobe increases/decreases the frequency.
A hold in bike strobe increases/decreases the brightness.
Please let me know if there’s other questions you might have.
Did I miss which driver you’re referring to?
The one for the d3aa, I forgot to mention that
Thanks for the help, but I lost interest in trying to figure out why the instructions I’d followed earlier (including the one to reset everything) don’t work now and took the battery out of the light, out the light back in the box it came in and out it back in the junk drawer with all the other unneeded miscellaneous debris of modern life.
I bought one light with anduril and nine without it last year. That’s enough anduril for me when there are so many other options that serve my needs better.
