Help with soldering supplies

I damaged one of the Nichia LEDs on my Emisar D4 so I’m using this as a teaching experience on building. It’s been over 10 years since I’ve soldered, but I have a background in industrial brazing so I have the basics down. What I need is help with is supplies.

I ordered a replacement Neutral White - XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K board from Intl-Outdoor.
I replaced my old 25w Radio Shack iron with a Weller 40w iron.
I have a spool of 60/40 .062 rosin core solder that I plan to use. Would this be OK for the two connections I need to make?
What thermal paste do you suggest? Amazon links for small amounts preferred since I don’t plan on building a lot of lights.
What flux should I get? Again, Amazon preferred. Could I get by without it?

you should use a hot plate, very useful when reflowing led, and it’s cheap

Thanks for the link, but I’m not reflowing. I’m taking the easy way out and replacing the entire board with LEDs already installed. Afterwards I will have a 4x board with 3 perfectly usable Nichia LEDs that I could reuse.

I see, i thought you gonna reflow new led, it’s cheaper
For TIM, i recommend any decent brandsk( artic mx-4, nt-h1, etc), you wont see much difference about those

Soldering gear most iportant is a temperature controlled iron
Those normal 25 or 40W get way too hot, tip is usually burned and solder does not want to stick on it

Your solder will be fine. Most thermal pastes will be good enough for flashlight use, just don’t get the white silicone type. I usually use Antec Nano Diamond or Arctic MX-4: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY

Have a huge syringe of MX4 that I used for my PC, still have a bunch so it gets used on the flashlights.

I really recommend using flux, makes soldering so much easier, can’t believe I used to solder without it. Any rosin paste will work fine, but they usually come in large amounts. I think I bought my 50g container two years ago and I’m not even halfway through it. Some people like to use these syringes, they are less messy than the tubs which get pretty nasty after a while. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Clean-Paste-Syringe/dp/B00425FUW2

You could get by without the flux though especially if you just need to connect a couple wires.

+1000

A budget choice would be one of the better Hakko 936 clones or a used genuine 936 if you can find one. Hakko discontinued the 936 and 937 but the clones live on. There are also clones of the current models but I don’t know if they are any good.

My personal favourite is the ancient Weller WTCPN or the newer WTCPT. As far as I know they still make the WTCPT. A new Weller will cost more than a 936 clone but it is much better.

Both turn up on eBay all the time. If you get an eBay one, be sure to replace the tip. The temperature control is in the tip. The magnestat sensor wears out and needs to be replaced occasionally.

I’m still using the WTCPN I bought new in the mid 1980’s. I also have a WTCPT I bought in the UK because I needed a 240V power unit.

Haven’t been keeping up with soldering stations. There may be other choices in the $50-$200 range.

What would be a budget recommendation for adjustable soldering iron? I’m in the same boat, starting to get into modding but only have a cheap fixed temp iron.

What is your budget? See my post above.

Interested to see what others recommend. I haven’t looked at anything for several years since my two Wellers still work.

I did just buy a really cheap hot air station but that is different.

It looks like we posted at the same time so I didn’t see your post! My budget is around $50-60. I’ve been looking at the different variations of STM32 T12 ones on Aliexpress like this one but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of reviews out there for them.

That DIY T12 looks nice but overly complicated to use.

I’d be looking at how well balanced the handle is and how well insulated the grip is. The 936 clones get hot after awhile.

I am about 5 years out of date on the current fad in soldering stations.

Looking at US eBay …

A genuine used 936 is $100 and up except for one very beat up for for $68. Parts are available. I wouldn’t pay that much.

A 936 clone is $57.99 on Banggood. —> 110 V US Stecker ESD-sicher 936 Lötstation mit 907 Lötgriff + Bügeleisenhalter + 10 kostenlose Spitzen Sale - Banggood Deutschland sold out-arrival notice-arrival notice

There are cheaper clones that aren’t too bad. Look for Aoyue 936. There are also clones of the current Hakko models. Maybe look on EEVBlog for reviews??

Watch out for fakes on eBay, especially with Hakko. I’d avoid anyone claiming to sell a brand new genuine 936 or 937.

A brand new genuine Weller WTCPT is $159 from Parts Express or $134 from Newark but on Back order.

If you can manage it, get the new Weller. It will last 30+ years as long as you are able to get new tips.

They are bullet proof and fool proof. The temperature is set by the tip. Tips come 600 / 700 / 800 F Just turn on the iron and go.

I use a single 700F tip most of the time.

On the topic of reflowing, are those electric skillets as affective as they look?

Vesture_of_blood uses one in THIS Video and it actually looks quite easy.

I had the version with the built in stand. I originally purchased it in 1980. I sold to a friend about 11 years ago. It still works. I’m kind of sorry I sold it.

A quick search found reviews that say most of the DIY T12 kits are ok except that the handles and tips aren’t very good.

One report of one where the heater failed after just a few days. Several reports that the included tips are junk.

You can use genuine Hakko T12 tips. I’d want to do that but it will add to the real cost.

Hakko irons don’t interchange without a hack since they don’t use the same connector.

This is pretty popular around here. It works well for flashlight mods. It takes Hakko tips, and you should get some different ones. The pointed one that comes with it isn’t very useful. I bought a 10 pack on Amazon, but I see HobbyKing was them as well. They are Hakko clones, but work well as long as you keep the tips tinned.