That is very cool; I missed it earlier. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a long extended cylindrical heat sink for a flashlight before. I wonder how effective it will be?
Edit: How do you guys make them so polished? It looks so amazing when they’re like that!
Thanks. Believe it or not, I think it will be overkill for the build that I'm doing which is just a single XM-L2 driven at 5-7 amps. The whole thing has a mass over 300g and adds 12 square inches in surface area right where it needs to be. If it can't handle it, I'll make another extension tube of thicker tubing and fin it.
Which large toroid version. Link please.
This one is the one I used in a defiant super thrower mod with a XM-L2. I have had no problems from it so far, potted in the pill with no heat sink. True 5 amps to the led with 5 modes instead of advertised 3, Da*n flashy modes. http://www.lck-led.com/5000ma-driver-modes-p-935.html?cPath=135
The Fl-2 will fit into an L2, even with a Standard p60 reflector. You just have to place a part of the Driver in the battery tube and you have no spring.
It arrived today (First aftermarket driver woo! )! This is the cutest little thing I have ever ordered/received in the mail (Also the most expensive per size ). Will install probably around midnight. Should anything be done with what I’m guessing is thermal pad, that came with it?
If this driver is similar to my 9A IOS driver the components that really heat up are on the top of the board. The mosfet in particular gets super hot and would be my primary concern for heatsinking. In this case that part is underneath the large toroid. So not sure if the thermal pad would do all that much good, whether stuck to the top of the toroid or sandwiched between the driver and the contact board.
I usually cut it up and shove it all around the driver. I do it more for stabilization than anything else. You don’t want anything shorting against the side of the pill or have it bobbling around and disconnecting a wire from the contact board.
You add some form of thermal carrier to the pill and stick the driver in the pill. The thermal carrier absorbs the heat from the driver and transfers it to the pill where it hopefully will be transferred to the light housing and dissipated into the air.
I use the fujik silicone thermal glue. It can be disassembled without destroying the driver but does take some time to clean up. Basically anything that transfers heat can be used to a certain extent, as its a lot better than air. If it doesn’t setup (harden) it could possible turn runny and leak all in the light. Might be best to use something thick or at least sets up.
Here’s a few pics that might help.
Oh alright that makes sense. Earlier someone posted a pic of their driver which looked like they dipped it in some soft serve vanilla ice cream; this would explain it. Thank you for the info!
The 5a lck-led driver I used was tested out of the light and didn’t seem to have any heat issues. I did not run it for any length of time besides just the time it took to see how much current it was delivering to the led. So I’am not sure how much heat it generates given a few minutes.
The lightmalls driver I modded for 5 amps did become very hot within about 30 seconds. Hot enough that I new it would probably die a quick death if I didn’t pull the plug.
Is there any chance that you guys can test the efficacy of those drivers. I am looking for the most efficient high amp driver (5Amp or more) for my maglite mods.
Ouchyfoot, that looks pretty darn good! To bad about the 5 mode. Can you hide the strobe/sos? How hot does the driver get on a longer run? Can you try measuring amps with an XM-L2 when you have a chance?
I also wonder what this would do with 3 cells + MT-G2.