I wasnt recommending 2, I used that number to demonstrate how important it would be with 9 or 12. I get why you need them, voltage and run time.
Keeppower are a decent battery. IIRC< they use the KK cell as they dont make them themselves, they just relabel and add a protection circuit, but I think they use Chinese circuits. Im not sure who uses a Seiko circuit for example on a KK 26650. Personally Id opt for 18650 as they would make for a better fit in a tube, with less wasted space.
As I said though in edit which by your quote appears you didnt see, personally Id opt for 18650 as they would make for a better fit in a tube, with less wasted space.
Basically every driver in the mt-g2 thread should work with the XHP70
Option 1 is you fix yourself to a number of batterys and search for a driver that fits your supplied voltage.
Or option 2 is you look for a good driver with a good user interface, good mode spacing and the amps you want to give the led and built the rest to fit the driver (this is the better option I think)
Yeah, but search is less than optimal with the sites old buggy software, at least I find it buggy. Theres actually many threads on various drivers here, including drivers designed by people here. IN the search bar, try MTG2 driver or mt-g2 driver and spend some time going over the results, theres some clued on people here. There is a thread on drivers for MT-G2 but Ive never read it so cant say how many ideas are in there but it asks the question what driver are people using so likely has a lot of ideas.
Here ya go, start here, I still havent read it though…
Taskled has some of the highest quality drivers ready made and the HPflex 6A buck driver would certainly do the trick with a 4 series by 3 parallel battery set up. With any buck driver you will need at least 1V above the forward voltage of the emitter to regulate. For a primary dive light I wouldn’t reccomend going cheap when you’re spending that much on cells. Flex drivers are a bit of a pain to program but that’s mainly due to the high number of options that can be programmed. If you end up using one with a reed switch I’d reccomend wiring in(or using jumper cables) a second momentary switch just to program it. Much easier than long/short “clicks” with a reed switch.
Not read the entire thread, so apologies if this is already covered. But if you aren’t constrained to a tube to the put the batteries in, would a high capacity LiPo as used in the RC world maybe suit better?
4S 16,000 mAh
2S 13,000 mAh (could run say two or three of these in parallel)