Household soldering to aluminum - Written how to - no pics.

Or it is how I just did it. Literally 5 minutes ago :-)

I sanded the area (a bottom of a aluminum coca cola can) with 60 grit, then 150 grit and finally 350 grit abrasive paper.

Quickly blew the dust off and heated it with a small propane torch. (Initially heated it too much due to how thin a can is so it turned dark almost blackish blue)

Keeping the soft part of the flame on it I dripped ordinary liquid soldering flux on it and after some seconds I could see the flux "wet" the surface. It seemed to help that i dripped it from a little height, maybe 15 cm up from the surface. As if the speed at which the drop hits the surface made it penetrate to the surface better.

As soon as I had the area I wanted, which coíncidentally is a circle of about 20 mm diameter , I hit it with ordinary rosin core solder.

It melted and balled up but after a little more liquid flux and a bit of poking with the end of the solder it also "wetted" the surface and spread out. I continued until my 20 mm circle was covered.

At this point I had some black ash like stuff floating in the middle and a center spot where the surface was not covered in solder. I dropped some more flux on it and heated a little more but it did not take to the surface.

I quickly put the propane torch down and used some 350 grit abrasive paper to rub that surface area while the solder was still molten. I had folded the paper so it was sort of stiff and I did not have my fingers any closer than 3 cm to the molten solder. It quickly adhered to the surface and I used the abrasive paper to wipe the ash like stuff off the surface.

Once cooled I scratched it with a screwdriver and it is really soldered to the aluminum surface. I found a piece of copper wire and soldered it to the surface covered aluminum.

I have been meaning to try this for a while because I need a cheap way to make a very much better thermal path from the copper noctigons to the cheap aluminum hosts than what even the best available thermal pastes or glues will do. Hell we all need that :-D

When I have time I will see if I can make a video on how to do it to a Jacob A60 host. But don't hold your breath waiting for it. I have 1000 things in my backlog of stuff to do that are not related to flashlights. Unfortunately LOL!


BTW: There are a number of reasons that this may not be a good idea that I can think of off the top of my head. The main reason is galvanic corrosion. Two dissimilar metals that are joined like this will have a corrosive effect on each other where one of them eats the other. But IF it is something that takes 10 years to happen in my 15 usd flashlight I DO NOT CARE. If the thing falls apart in 3 months you will get an update thread where I cry and whimper and look for sympathy :-)

Thanks for the effort Ledsmoke. Very interesting.

Now all you need is some tin foil and cling wrap, and you can make your own StuporCapacitor!

“Stupor”? So many Farads it will knock you out!

I still don’t have the gumption to try this, but I think you’ve just nudged me closer…

Thanks!

In addition to making Light, it’s useful to make Heat too.

I’ve been working on a teachable way of making Jet Stoves and I think you may have just solved one of my biggest problems! Thank you!

Using stainless steel to remove the oxidation layer and cold aluminum solder also works

It has to be stainless from what I have seen on youtube videos

I got this from ebay

I haven’t done it yet…but if/when I need to get a driver soldered into an aluminum pill…I plan on just cleaning the lip where the driver should solder to, then make sure the solder is on there, then tack in the driver

I figure it would be easier than trying to solder the whole thing…just give it places to “hang on to”

Ok. So its a known thing. I am just slow to pick up on it. LOL

Anyway, the video is probably cancelled then. But why is nobody doing it then? I'll do it to my X7 as soon as I have time. And take measurements before and after. Just to know the diff.

It’s known…but INCREDIBLY difficult to do. Copper/brass is much much much easier to solder to

This is why I am thinking using the low temperature solder just get a bead around the top lip where the driver sits, when you put the driver in the solder (pre tinned area) should solder easier…the oxydation layer is the problem…aluminum almost IMMEDIATELY oxidizes and that layer is what prevents solder from sticking

What if you sand the aluminum under flux? The flux will prevent oxidation and maybe then it will solder?

I did this many times before.
But never succeeded even once.

I've written off aluminium soldering as an urban myth and moved on.

Good to know someone can do it. :)

@ Pulsar13. I had too. Untill i got bored in the workshop after drinking a coke.

Maybe the aluminium is different in flashlight hosts than in coke cans. I know that some aluminium types solder very poor.

put some light oil on the aluminum before hitting it with some steel wool, that should help quite a bit. It’s not going to oxidize if it’s already oiled.

Aluminum builds an oxide layer extremely fast, any open air time will make it start to build a layer, thats why he had to scratch it more with the soldering iron before it stuck.

And it seems the aluminum in the Jacob A60 host is one of them :-(

One trick for soldered (and hard brazed (“silver soldered” with 4 percent silver, red hot), if you ever do that) parts to clean them up, if they’ll take this treatment:

Have a little ‘coffeepot’ simmering right there
drop the freshly soldered/brazed piece into it or pour the boiling water over it.
The flux just explodes off the metal, and I’ve never had the solder fail.

Even slightly cooler hot water doesn’t seem to do the job well, it needs to be bubbling when used.

This was something I did decades ago making little outdoor sculptures and they still look ok in the weather; the ones from before I used boiling water corroded pretty fast at/around the soft soldered connections. Brazing holds up better even when flux remains but it’s ugly and metal with flux left on it is corroding slowly.