Sorry Dale. l gave it away along time ago.
Along with surface brightness of the emitter. I wish this was posted right on the main page, right under the logo, where everyone had to see it every day.
So many people want so many different things in a "thrower", that I think it is the #1 most controversial subject in the flashlight world.
Also, I think the whole idea, which is based on the fact that throw distance is measured out to .025 lux, is a waste of time and very misleading. To me, that is a worthless figure, since it is just calculated on paper and not actually measured and for the fact that no one can actually use .25 lux at 500 meters, or 1000 meters, or more. It is a ridiculous figure to me. Tell me how bright I need to be, to illuminate a person at one mile, bright enough to be able to, (with binoculars or scope, of course), tell what color hair, eyes, clothes, etc. Bright enough to make that person realize a light is shining on them and I will believe it is a halfway decent thrower. Too many different ideas of what a thrower is and too much misleading information when .25 lux is used. Using the standard, the Olight MX3S-UT Javelot probably only throws, (what I consider bright enough), about 400 or 500 meters, compares to ANSI standard of 1000 meters.
Sorry for ranting, again.
Back to the subject, no I would rather see a "BLF thrower" with a SBT 70 led, a 90mm or larger reflector and a body similar to a SRK, that held four or more parallel cells, for better run time. Of course, that would bee too expensive, to be considered "budget", so....
So you’re a one lux kind of guy then. I tell guys that are using lights to shoot to do the same thing, get a light rated at least 2x the distance you plan to shoot at.
I always dig the appearance of SHADOW JM26. If we can try to make it even a little smaller and shorter, it may fit the bill. And of course with nice UI, fast PWM and brutal power. The brownish color is pretty too.
Not trying to hi-jack thread, just must report that the amp draw on the 5 mode drop in received yesterday is only 1.22 amps on high 
Tried all forms of batteries.
Now notice that Kaidomain does not list amperage in description, but 1.22 amps? Come on man!
Will try to get driver out at another date to see if it can be modded easy.
Does have nice beam, just need it brighter.
Later,
Keith
Thanks for the update, Keith!
-Chuck
This Fandyfire SP-02 reminds me of the Shadow at the top of the page.
Shown in shorty mode, comes with extra tube. Best factory reflector on a budget light that I have ever seen.
Does come with a clip like on the SP01 shown.
Enjoy!
With some friends
Later,
Keith
+1
That fandyfire does look pretty good, but I still prefer the one on the op better due to the side switch
What would it look like? Stupid. 
A wide and deep reflector is for one emitter only, not for triples. Triples need a triple optic, not one wide deep reflector.
Sad but true.
The beam on my JM26 sucks! The battery tube is flat bottomed with just a steel spring in it. I soldered a copper washer to it, then braided the spring, pressed it in to the bottom. Added 6 more 7135’s for a total of 14 .380’s 5.32amps, also added a copper heatsink with Artic5 epoxy to the 7135’s. Removed the nylon and brass pin positive post, added a braided spring to the driver. 20awg wires to the led. The reflector is on the Noctigon 32mm XPG/XPL board with a 5000k XPL-HI, it’s bright, but the beam is real ringy? Put a UCLp in front of it and the rings became even more pronounced!!! F’it I stippled the reflector with Hi Temp Clear, and now it won’t get thrown against a brick wall, well for now! Too bad the light is built well, the driver and the UI suck, and I guess the reflector too? But what the hey, I got it for a $11.00 bucks shipped?
If I really want a good mix of throw and spill in a true ‘pocket package’ a UF501A body plus an IMR 18350 with a very well driven XML Hi drop-in plus a decent copper shim around it for good heat transfer, seems to me the best and cheapest compromise. A decent 501A de-anodised always looks far better than when its in the black. Its always annoyed me that you can get 501B’s in every damn color or camouflage but you can’t get a 501A in anything but black. Who designed it, Henry Ford?
The UranusFire 818 kinda fits in your pocket. It throws better than a C8. Has a side e-switch and tail switch. Don’t know if its 26mm unknown FET (IC markings ground off) driver can be resister modded but a 26mm version of the BLF driver would be nice.
It actually is a good light but the UranusFire name isn’t very popular here. A BudgetLightForum BLF-818 Special Edition would be nice name.
I like it! You should do a review of it! Like to see a complete tear down, you take great pic’s!!! Note: I tried to order 10 - No price break? Any coupons to be had?
KD has a “BLF” coupon code.
Thanks jubledum, got one to try out! J)
Sign me up for the BLF budget thrower list. Thanks
What about Odepro B58U?
https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/30194
It has got a nice reflector. An overdriven XPL HI or XPG2 would run fine.
I’ve discussed about making a BLF thrower with Rey before using the Trustfire X7. It has good price point (price is negotiable especially with high quantity), BIG reflector, taking multiple batteries and fairly good looking.
I know some people do not like multiple lithium batteries in series, and this is probably the Courui D01 is favoured. But the good thing about 3 batteries in series is that the current regulation is very good and constant, which mean that the maximum light output can be maintained until all the batteries are almost empty.
The X7 reflector is also slightly larger than the Courui D01 if I am not mistaken, meaning that it has the potential to hit 450kcd if not more. So with a good buck driver you can enjoy 450kcd as long as you want until the batteries are fully depleted without having the voltage sag.
The X7 can probably can be mounted on a rifle… well, I’m not a hunter so I’m not very sure on this one, but based on its body tube diameter I guess it can. The Courui D01 however is not quite possible.
Yes the Trustfire X7 is very big and long, but when it comes to a thrower (especially something which is capable of producing 350kcd and above) I don’t expect it to be pocketable, instead I want better current regulation and constant output. With a single 18650 supplying 6A to a single XP-L HI, how long would you expect it to stay there? A couple minutes maybe?