I see its basically a star with a built in one-mode low power driver… the diode ensures the correct polarity, you can add another 7135 for 700ma…
my question is, how does the emitter get flowed on? i am used to seeing the + and - reflow contact points, as well as the “main” reflow in the middle… this is just middle reflowed, and i dont see how the + and - get connected to the emitter??
It is designed for 1-3watt leds. The kind with the tabs the stick out the side. The tabs solder to the square pads. The power is connected to the +&- oval pads. There is a place where an additional amc7135 can be soldered for more current. The amcs can be stacked for more power.
yep:
The center pad is not soldered, you just add some thermal paste there. This led design is a bit a thing from the past, it is not suitable for high power heat dissipation. I know of no modern leds in this design.
I was initially liking seeing the basic circuit, and that i could “parallel” as many 7135’s i want following the basic circuit design… plus, this makes the guy that made the “circular in copper” ring of 7135’s jbwelded into the copper ring? it makes THAT make more sense to me what he was doing.
basically put… all i need in the way of a from-scratch driver? is a diode for reverse polarity, this basic circuit design… and parallel-gang as many 7135s to my hearts content, to instantly produce a “one mode” driver of any current? thats cool for me to understand for the future… if i have it right.
I mean, i may not be able to understand the fet+whatever drivers completely, but… this for a one mode? make more sene… if i am understanding this right…
Did that a few times with 10mm copper sinkpads and maglite solitaires. I think
Justin did it a few times as well. Makes for a nice and simple current limited driver. When it dims it’s time to charge the cell.
I answered that somewhere on FT, but ain’t seeing it.
Yeah, as others explained above, it’s for 3W “bead” LEDs. Ain’t meant to be stressed out too much, but make for great “driverless” setups, ie, the “driver” is the 7135 right next to the LED. Just be aware that the voltage needs to be close to the LED’s voltage, because the 7135 absorbs everything extra.
So if you want to make a lightbar for an aquarium, or under a shelf, etc., you mount an array of these, parallel them, and run the bunch off a ~4V supply. No need for a separate driver for each LED/star.
Nice thing about those “bead” LEDs is that you can get virtually anything from LEDworld (on Amazon). You want red, orange, UV, pink(!), green, blue, or white, or even 10000K blue-white, you can find something.
No, you won’t get 1000lm out of one chip, but for “mood lighting” in blue for a tres kewl server room, or green for that Matriz look, or whatever, who cares?, you got it right there from whatever craptastic LEDs you can find.
Oh yeah, you can replace the 9-LED driver boards on those silly 3×AAA lights with one of those. Make a nice mule in UV or blue or whatever color you want.