I think a laptop pull won’t work in a srk without the solder blob, don’t you need a button top to make contact in the positive ring?
None, only tear off all the metal that is spot welded in 4 places. Don’t care to polish the 4 tiny spot welds really, they are not sharp on mine or just use small wire cutters to cut off any small excess.
You could always brush it with sandpaper or dremel if you have some super resistant metal connections welded there.
I have 4 Panasonic NCR18650’s 2900 mah that work fine in a 4x XML kung. The battery top just barely extrudes past the battery tube, but its enough to make them work. They will not work in a converted 2D Maglite with the newer type battery contact switch. The top on the battery has to large of diameter to fit down inside where the contact sits.
+1.
I was pulling a file without much success.
Pulling the cell should give better control.
Why didn’t I think of that?!
I use a dremel like tool then to protect the positive end from rust or corrosion I use a bump of solder across the entire surface. I leave the negative end as is after removing excess tab material w/dremel…
If the sharp pieces are what I think you are talking about...
The spike like things left over on the + and - sides after you've ripped the long pieces of metal off.
(I am going to get flamed for this, I just know it.)
I use a hammer!
2-3 taps and they are flat.
I am by far NO pro at this, but the hammer hasn't caused me any issues yet.
I nearly sprayed coffee everywhere with that one…………nice !!! 
Yes, its the sharp spike bit left when you pull the tags off. Mine are very small but very sharp. Too small to grab with pliers but enough to draw blood and I certainly dont want to wreck any lights for a freebie laptop pull.
A well directed mini sanding disc will remove them with no problems. This is my first device I use for removing tabs because it is cheap and effective. http://www.ebay.com/itm/North-American-Tool-Ind-51872-80Pc-Mini-Rotary-Toolkit-51872-/121162866577?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item1c35de9f91
Thanks for that, I have been checking out these cheaper versions because it’s things like this I will probably only use it for. Dremel’s are great, but a bit expensive, especially when I would prefer to spend my budget on………more lights
Thanks for that, I have been checking out these cheaper versions because it’s things like this I will probably only use it for. Dremel’s are great, but a bit expensive, especially when I would prefer to spend my budget on………more lights
I'd say be sure you know what you're doing when adding solder blobs to the ends of used batteries .
Soldering on batteries is a definate NO..NO. If you scuff up the tops add flux and drop a blob on to the top without adding heat to the cap then you're ok ..Actually soldering on a battery is just plain stupid . So just know the difference between the two actions .
Like Ubehebe says ...go practice on dead cells first
Another vote for the dremel, but be aware that the neg end of the battery is +VERY thin. It does not take much of a divot to break through to the catalyst bag inside, which of course renders the battery useless. So it’s VERY important to only remove the tab detrius and not grind into the neg end of the battery casing. This require a very light touch.
The positive end is a different story. That’s elevated above the battery and a metal like steel, unlike the neg pole which is very soft.
And yes, in defense of the previous poster about solder blobs melting. I have two lights that get hot enough to soften the solder so the spring indents into the solder blob on the positive end of the flat-top battery. It wasn’t hot enough to liquify the solder, but it did soften enough to show an imprint of the light’s spring. Both lights are convoy tube lights. I forget which models.
It softens enough that it is difficult to get the battery out sometimes, because the solder blob hardens over the spring when you turn the light off, in effect soldering the spring to the solder blob. But this only happens in those two lights and only after extended use.
Hope this helps!
+1 for dremel 
I think that guy stole my hammer!
Accurate depiction of my process though. Another tap and the spikes should be nice and flat.
Pulled this from one of the other laptop battery threads:
Does it need to be a brass nut? I have a ton of tiny stainless, or could I skip the nut altogether and just add a bit more solder?
Are the top edges of the nut of concern as far as the contact with the contact plate goes?
This would be for an SRK.
[quote=unknown00101] Pulled this from one of the other laptop battery threads: [quote=keltex78]
Let someone else comment on the safety of the King on unprotected cells first. It's what I use, and it works for me...
Yes, you would need to extend the positive pole of your cells to fit. I was able to do this by soldering small brass machine nuts onto the positive caps on the cells. Be careful doing this; make sure your soldering iron is hot, and work quickly so you do not overheat and damage the cells. I use soldering paste as it has a low melting temperature and bonds easily and quickly. Apply a small blob to the positive pole of the cell, heat it with the soldering iron and swirl it around to evenly and thinly coat the surface but remove the heat as quickly as possible. Scuff one side of the spacer you are soldering on and pre-tin it with the soldering paste. Place it on the pre-tinned cell post and heat the nut with your soldering iron until you see it settle into place, then immediately remove the heat and let the part cool.
[/quote] Does it need to be a brass nut? I have a ton of tiny stainless, or could I skip the nut altogether and just add a bit more solder? Are the top edges of the nut of concern as far as the contact with the contact plate goes? This would be for an SRK. [/quote]
Solder sticks nice to brass... I still use the set of cells I modded using this technique in my King-clone and haven't had any issues with wear on the driver contact plate. Of course, I sanded the top of the nuts and made sure they were very smooth with no burs or projections to scratch the thin contact surface first...
Alright cool, do you add any solder to the top of the nut, or in the middle of the threads or just stick with the smooth sanded surface for contact?