I would probably go with:
Olight h2r Nova
Convoy s2
Utorch ut02
Blf q8
And either an s41 or d4
For cells, I would get 30q’s. Not sure about a charger, haven’t looked in a while, but would get a charger that you can do discharge tests and check internal resistance to monitor the condition of the cells periodically
WOW, you are special aren’t you…
Highest capacity on original 18650 cells is currently 3500mAh, I think I’ve read about LG coming up with a 3600mAh cell, and it’s lower for high drain cells. Anything above this is a false claim from the company that wraps and distributes those batteries, stay away from them
It’s like those 200lm (at best) lights that are claimed to be 1000lm, no, 1500lm, no really, 3000lm!, no, 10000lm!
The only difference is that with those lights that are rated in “Chinese lumens”, you generally ain’t gonna hurt yourself other than stumbling in the dark when the “10000lm” light ends up with you falling into a deep hole.
With those crappy rewraps, they’re likely recycled cells from, well, anywhere (recycling bins, garbage dumps, etc.) that are touted to be brand spanking shiny new cells with outrageous claims. Use those at your own risk, as they’re anything from rescued-from-the-garbage cells, to teeny LiPo “chiclet” cells stuffed into an 18650 can and filled with sand or flour to keep it from rattling around and seeming too light.
Once you’re in the know, there’s no excuse to be suckered in by those cells, but those crooks rely on people simply not knowing any better, doing “comparison shopping” to skip genuine 3400mAH cells in favor of their mini-pipebomb cells with 5000mAH… 6000mAH… 10000mAH! cells.
He’s right about there not being any such thing as a 6AH 18650 cell.
Me, I would’ve phrased it much more nicely, though.
The message couldn;t be clearer
At the end of the day this will help better, more reputable vendors stand out of the crowd
Or they’ll just advertise their crapcells as 3400mAH. :confounded:
Still, I learned there are some who stand out as I saw the comparison charts today, numbers speak volumes 
By the way do you know if there is a typical suggested voltage (level of being charged) for 18650 LiIon long term storage? That should not depend on manufacturer, and I suspect there could be a ballpark volts value…
Can check the datasheet on it, think it’s usually like 3.6v
I have to agree, BUT, whatever you do, do not put the cell in backwards and leave it, I blew up my UT01 just the other day and it looks like the cell must have expanded because the wrap was split half way up the cell like it was cut with a razor, sort of spooky looking actually, like a what if.?
I smelled it first but have so many lights I couldn’t figure out where the electrical smell was coming from, didn’t find it until I picked up the Utorch to use it and then I could smell it real well, my place still smells like burnt electrical,
I didn’t know there was no reverse protection and who would have thought with some of the other odd features the light has, you would think reverse protection would be a no brainer, guess not. Crude normal I don’t put cells in backwards either, but always a first time I guess. At least they are cheap and as mentioned almost always has a code for normally $16 and less.
Having read other posts by you I respect both your knowledge and your opinion, thank you for your insite. The 30Qs were purchased 2 days after the other ones and represent the knowledge I have gained from reading posts such as yours.
Thank you.
No worries.
30Qs are among my favorite cells. Panny-Bs (Panasonic NCR18650B) for lower-drain lights (3A and lower), and 30Qs for higher drain at the expense of capacity.
I got some… VTC6es(?)… for my Q8s, but other than them and the 2 above, I’ve used laptop pulls just fine, also with not so high-strung lights. VTC-whatevers (5/5A/6/etc.), HG2s, etc., all good higher-drain cells.
While you won’t be getting brand-new cells, you can always find/scrounge old laptop battery-packs and go crazy. I got a bunch of older Panasonics that way. Capacity is about 2AH or less, but who cares? They still work fine even in a ~3A light (S2+).
But these are known cells, as you know their provenance, so to speak. Not like garbage-cells you’d buy offa Fleabay and the like.
Thanks buddy. I didn’t realize that the UT01 doesn’t have RPP (Reverse Polarity Protection). It is quite surprising that they didn’t incorporate RPP. It seems to be a very basic feature in most lights these days. Sounds a bit scary. Glad it didn’t explode into a fireball. I’m assuming you used a 14500 Li-ion?
At this point it is not about RPP which usually just prevents the light from being damaged by the reversed polarity. In this case, it plainly creates a short right-away! 
:person_facepalming:
No short possible with LPDF Drive :+1:
Pulsar is right. 3.6 to 3.8v Is ballpark for most li-ions, they vary between datasheets. Storing at room temps or slightly cooler also slows self discharge and degradation.
don’t get copper, too heavy, and soft
or titanium, expensive and scratches easily
i’d get lumintop AAA tool for size
BLF A6 for brightness and run time, warmish color light
Liitokala quad charger
any 3 or 4 li ion cells
$85
wle
Yes it was very surprising to me and yes it was a 14500, last night I thought I would pull out the driver and maybe save the rest of the light but the driver had melted so badly and the smell was so bad I decided to just trash the light.
The driver is a double layered driver and right was completely melted together, hindsight I should have taken some pictures mostly because this is really such an odd situation, I’ve never seen anything like it and definitely would have been the last thing I would have expected with all the features like hidden modes etc.
One odd thing is that the tail spring was perfect as it is heavy duty but I’d have expected it to collapse possibly, and as mentioned the tail cap end of the cell which was a 14500 Windy Fire from Mt. Elec. which is a good cell, appeared to be leaking slightly and the wrap had split about a 3rd of the way up the cell and so clean it looked like it was cut with a razor which makes me think it did expand, and that did really concern me especially knowing it was sitting on the coffee table next to me, an explosion might have been unlikely but who knows.
I’ve got hundreds of lights and have never had anything like this happen before and it didn’t happen immediately it had to have sat for awhile until it went bad, so maybe there’s some sort of protection and had I tried to turn the light on immediately I’d have known the cell was in backwards but I didn’t I put the cell in and just put it on the table, so it’s hard to say just how long that process took.
But just wanted to say that there is this possibility but really unsure about how long you have before something odd happens, might take minutes or hours…? Just don’t put cells in backwards is the moral of this story I guess.
utorch ut01 SAYS it has reverse polarity protection… in the manual… i just got one…
it sounds more like a shorted cell than reverse polarity…
maybe the bottom spring shorted the cell somehow, and the heat from that melted the driver etc
wle