Wondering which is better, charge deep cycle lead acid batteries when they are partially depleted or wait until they are fully depleted.
Always keep SLA batteries full and in floating voltage in order to extend their life. There are two kinds of SLA: Gel and AGM. Gel is more suitable for low discharge rate and have more cycles while AGM provides more capacity at stable current draw (normally under 20A).
Never let any lead acid battery fully drain because the damage is irreversible. Some people even don’t let their AGM batteries in solar setup discharge below 50%!
Are you using flooded, AGM or gel?
exactly this, any time spent below full charge reduces battery life, if you wanted maximum life you would not use the batteries at all (defeating the purpose of having batteries).
AGM I think, can remove tops and add water.
If you can add water then it’s not an AGM.
Lead acid prefer floating state. Floating voltage varies per battery though
The batteries I am using are the ones at the bottom left. Thanks for the help.
I have several 36 volt rigs. I have had one 36 volt for over 15 years. The best I got out of my Six 6 volt batteries was Six years. I got darn close to 7 years.
I just sold 2 last week I have had for a few years. I used to flip (meaning sell) used carts.
I run either Trojan or Interstate. I found the Interstate to last longer.
I couldn’t count the neighborhood miles. Several thousand I am sure. Adult driven (for the most part). In hot humid climate.
Here is how I got almost 7 years on my new Interstates in my old 98 Ezgo.
I put one of those Bar display meters on the dash. Plus, I use a volt meter and I would check each cell individually. Make sure they all match up fairly evenly.
Every year, I would rotate the batteries around in the series.
Use only distilled water to top them off.
Upgrade all cables to High quality Four (or lower) AWG pure copper wires & lugs. Including speed control connections. Make sure all connections are kept clean and secure. I use that anticorrosion spray for the terminals.
Store the cart in a garage or insulated shed if possible. Temperature swings can really effect the batteries. (my garage is temp controlled)
I let the batteries cool prior to charging. And cool after charging before use.
Prior to charging, check water levels. I use Speed Caps. This makes it a lot faster and easier to do that.
If you are going to charge it in a garage, leave a crack in the door. Don’t leave pets locked in with it. The fumes can be dangerous.
I run a Power Wise brand charger plugged straight in the Outlet, No Extension cord.
I let the cells run down to about 25% range before charging them. Two times I was out driving and it died almost completely. Once I killed it about 1/2 a mile away and pushed back.
Keys to max distance on fully charged:
Make sure your brakes are adjusted properly and not dragging. Air your tires up to the max pressure. Get any additional weight off you can. Run about 1/2 throttle max. I could get well over 20 miles with just me. My stock cart topped out at 18 mph unloaded, with windshield folded down. Thats on 12 inch wheels and low profile tires.
I noticed the most difference in speed & performance with fully aired tires & Upgrading the cables to 2AWG wire & copper lugs.
I am about to pull the trigger on a used 2011 48 Volt Club Car in a few weeks. Just trying to get funding in order. Almost there.
I am curious to hear others and see if they have any other ideas. I am always open to learning more.
48v Club Car, had it on the farm for almost 18 years, lifted on 22’s, what a workhorse. I get precisely 6 years from a set of Trojans, could get more but I won’t tolerate reduced performance and the excess gassing causes corrosion issues.
Here’s my charging algorithm… every Sunday night. Weekdays it gets limited daily use, 1/4 mile per day, weekends it usually gets its butt kicked but I park it the moment the dash battery light comes on which is @49.5 - 50 volts, then plug it in Sunday night.
I also believe in battery rotation. The outers in the series are worked harder and always will use more water, every spring I’ll rotate the outers to inners and use that opportunity to clean all contacts. Summer, check water once a month, winter not as much. I upgraded cable gauge for performance, as in flashlights, it does make a difference. Yes, dedicated outlet for the charger, make sure the circuit is not shared with a freezer or something, makes havoc for the charging algorithm.
Always remove rings, watches, and have your game face on before taking a wrench to these battery packs, serious amperage begging to jump somewhere.
Edit to add, set of tires last about the same six years.
Good info from you guys, going to start using some of it. The cart is a Club Car Precedent 48 volt. Just got new batteries and stock cables about 2 months ago. Just spent a lot on the new cables but guess I might need to check out the heavier ones. Never rotated batteries but will start. Kept outside most of the time because it’s not convenient to walk to the shop to retrieve. Check water level maybe twice a year but will increase frequency. When I drive it’s always full throttle, others mostly use half throttle. Has a battery gauge with the arm but doesn’t seem very accurate.
Wish they would just make a direct 48v battery using 24 plates inside. I wonder though if the 6 plates inside degrade at different rates.
Golf cart batteries are not meant to last forever. In fact, most golf cart batteries have a life span of around three to four years. However, this does not mean that your golf cart batteries have to die after just a few short years. There are many ways that you can help to prolong the life of your golf cart batteries, and in this article we will discuss some of the best ways to do just that.
well, i clicked on that.
and i did not see anything
about cart batteries or
their maintenance.
Yeah, well the poster is probably a spambot. 