According to the “Simple battery selection guide” [Battery test-review 18650 battery selection],
any XM-L led with single 18650 battery will need 3A current, so I’m supposed to “look for the batteries with the longest yellow bar” in the graphs above.
I have 2 questions:
1: Is the Convoy S2 flashlight I plan on getting running at 3A or is it not 1A because of the driver?
2: There are separate graphs from “Discharge, capacity down to 2.8 volt” all the way to “Discharge, capacity down to 3.6 volt”.
What is the difference between these graphs and why should I look at the 3.6 volt graph [this is what the “Simple battery selection guide” recommends] when selecting the battery ?
As my questions probably tell you, I’m really clueless so any help will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
2. The 2.8v graph shows you how a battery performs until it is literally out of juice. The 3.6v graph shows you how a battery performs until most lights are starting to get dim.
The 3400 mAh Panasonic NCR18650B would be a great choice for that light and provide one of the longest runtimes available. Of course, there are less expensive options available! Stick to the name brands: Sanyo, LG, Panasonic, Samsung, etc.
Welcome aboard, you’re in the right place to get the answers you’re looking for.
Right off the top let me suggest that you might have misunderstood something in the charts. An XM-L2 or XM-L has a recommended maximum of 3A. It will work under much less, including the 1.05A of the driver in the light you described. By not pushing it hard you will get much longer run times than someone, like myself, who tends to squeeze em for all they’re worth.
Almost any cell will run that 1A light. If you’re really new and don’t fully understand the dangers inherent to Li-ion cells, I’d recommend you stay with protected cells for now. And the suggestion to use name brand cells is a solid one. Keeppower makes their protected cells from well known Panasonic cells, so that’s a good choice that you won’t have to worry about.
The light you’ve described will not be pulling 3A because, yes, the driver is limiting the output to the emitter. Good choice, long lasting dependable light with no issues making excessive heat.
Look around in here, check out the reviews on lights, read some of the mod threads and get an idea what some are doing to improve a basic light. It’s not always about the brightest, furthest throwing light (Did I say that?) So enjoy your reading, enjoy the folks here, and have a great time!
Forum member RMM has a great online shop that has just about any flashlight related paraphernalia you could ever need , with excellent service and fast shipping .
1: I’ve come across great reviews on the 3400 mAh Panasonic NCR18650B. But looking at the “Discharge, capacity down to 3.6 volt” graph, wouldn’t the TrustFire TF18650 3000mAh (Flame) be a better choice since the blue bars [that refer to the 1A current] are 3 times longer for the trustfire?
2: I’m obviously not understanding certain fundamentals. Using the “Battery test 18650, comparator” [link in asval’s reply above], the graphs have volt and ah on their x-y axis. How should I understand the graphs?
Please have mercy, newbie here. Thanks in advance!
1: I’m wondering if this is an error on the part of the graph that shows the blue bars around 3 times longer for the Trustfire than that of the Panasonic. The figures don’t support this at all (See below)
2: Using the link in asval [above], I’m comparing the curves of the 1A current between the Panasonic 3400mah protected and the Trustfire 3000mah. So for example,
at 3.6V, the readings are Panasonic = 1.375ah and Trustfire = 1.875 —- Trustfire ah is larger at 3.6V
at 2.8V, the readings are Panasonic = 3.125ah and Trustfire = 2.500 —- Panasonic ah is larger at 2.8V
So which battery is better for my flashlight that has a 1.05A driver? And what is the logic behind the answer?
Sorry if I seem silly. I’m just having a difficult time working out the logic. Thanks in advance!
