I have some spare parts (XML or R5 and some driver) and i want to create a pocket rocket.
I remember that someone already did it… I searched on the forum but i found only some comments. Is there a post with the entire process or some picture?
The thing is that any P60 pill can be used in the light. You may have to remove
some material below the last thread of the pill (file it down)to screw it in.
You also have to remove the positive spring from the driver. The driver ground
must be isolated from the pill (remove one or two solder points) as this light is a twisty.
Screwed nearly all in the tube will do the contact via the ground ring (-) on the driver.
I glued the driver to the pill so it stayed in place.
If you want to mod it in a more normal way by using spare leds you have, I can tell
you that a Q5 suits the lens very nicely. I have also used a R5 for even more lumens.
I tried it with a xml, but the runtime was so short that I took that led out again. It also
got too hot very fast.
I dont get it? If you isolate the driver ground from the pill the light will only
go on when the tube touches the ground ring (negative) on the driver.
When I did this mod nearly 2 years ago there was not nearly so many
pocket rockets available on the market, as there are now.
I ended up with what I consider to be a super easy, cheap and awesome mod. Just plop a new LED in one of these lights…this one in particular: lck-led.com - Informationen zum Thema lck led.
It’s a warm white Osram for $1.15…crazy cheap. The tint isn’t warm really, I’d call it neutral at best. So for 15 minutes of work and an extra buck or two, you have a super small single mode that puts out a nice amount of light in a great tint…try it, it’s so cheap you have little to lose.
I have two of these modded with an XML in a p60 pill. I have not had any problems and the one I edc is used extensively. As oldbobk said tbough, if the annodization wears out on the threads it will stay on. If mine ever do fail in this way I will just reinstall the driver isolated from the pill. Great light.
This was my first serious mod almost 2 years ago, also. Until the Trustfire Mini 01 came out just recently it makes the smallest XM-L you can have. Still is smaller than the mini unless you grind off the mini’s lanyard peg. Fun little light.
Thanks everyone for the suggestion. I know the mod will not worth the price of the component but are all parts that i already have.
I have only a problem… With protected trustfire the flashlight turn on as soon as i try to screw in the body. Maybe it’s too long. Modding the spring in the body could solve the problem?
You can do my famous tailcap rubber mod. Just take out the tailcap rubber boot, hold it up to your eye, move it over to a very bright XM-L light, install, and call the new light a highly modded MXDL.
This is no different than people “modding” their Surefires until there’s nothing actually left of the original light.
Wanting a key chain light with a bigger battery than AAA size and more compact than an SK-58, I got a Smiling Shark SS-5002 “3 W” AA, an MXDL 3W, (Added: a 10B CREE XR-E Q5 3-Mode), a TrustFire Z1, and a TrustFire Mini-01, the latter three being CR123A lights. That is the order of price and also of quality. The two TrustFires have Cree leds and are usable as is. The SS was too weak to be useful, even with a 14500, which stopped its working with AAs. So I modified the the SS with an XR-E left from an SK-68 and a 7135 x 3 driver, and the MXDL with an XM-L from the pill that I had used for alcohol liquid cooling tests.
The SS and MXDL have nut and bolt styling, the Z1 has nice knurling and an angle shape, and the Mini is lovely rounded and polished stainless steel. The main interest of the SS is that the hex nut shape of the bezel portion of the head is not regular! There are six flat facets, but sections left round between the faces go from none to almost as wide as the facets. Quite unusual for an industrial product.
The SS-5002 has a piece of plastic tube instead of a pill and had no real star around the led. I filed down the plastic reflector in attempt to preserve its focus, but it has a funny shaped spot. I also have problems with the switching, maybe because I filed too much off the outside of the driver to keep it from being always on. After supergluing the components to the tube, it works but still is not as reliable, bright or uniform as the other three lights.
The MXDL 3W has a real pill but a plastic reflector. It had a nice though floody pattern and was fairly bright, but not as bright as it could be for its current draw. So I left the driver as it was and snapped in the 16 mm. star with the XM-L. I got mixed up on the optics and took off too much of the back of the reflector. I got back reasonable focus by inserting a left over plastic disc. At first it was nice and bright, but by the time I was done with the focus it became quite dim. Maybe the driver couldn’t take the lower forward voltage or maybe I broke a connection on the driver board. It worked fine in testing with the CR123A wired directly to the led, so I just wired across the board, making the driver nothing but a connection. It now has performance similar to that of the Mini-01, but only one mode. It is still longer and wider than the Mini but much lighter. Perhaps the direct drive will cause it to get dim when the battery is weak, but at least I know it is efficient. So both conversions are successful, after a variety of problems, and the cost was only that of the 1735 x 3 driver board for the SS.
The Mxdl 3w name was used on about a dozen different flashlights . Hence some confusing responses in the thread .
My favorite was a AAA twisty with a solid clip and an odd shiny metal tail .