No, it’s just the signal.
everyone putting big lights in small hosts. im gonna put small light in big host.
You will need a sleeve, the power runs through the inner ring and signal through the outer one.
Kind of backwards to what the KR4 and FW3A use.
wait a minute. are you 100%?
inner tube is positive and outer tube is negative. wurkkos use negative to switch?
Common positive goes to the brass button in the middle of the driver, both contacts on the tubes are negative, one just has an e-switch across it for the signal and the other carries current.
a bit more detail thanks to m4potofu
“the contact ring around the driver isn’t GND/batt- but the switch signal, since the body of the flashlight is the switch signal, batt- is actually the inner tube”
hmm. ok. so i thought the ts10 outer ring on driver was positive.
ok. read link. good to know and worried me at first. for what I’m doing however, as long as i create an insulated connection from the driver ring to the tailcap, it should work. yeah?
like this kinda
Not familiar with this specific light- Google/reviews seem to show a threaded charging adapter/body- this suggests to me that the light is more complicated than normal tube light as to charge it’ll need access to both ends of the cell…
On the upside, this could mean an e-switch is more viable…
the threaded charging port is on the inner tailcap. there are 2 tailcaps. the inner tailcap is insulated from the body of the flashlight. the outer tailcap has the clickie which connects the inner tailcap to the body of the flashlight.
im curious as to how would this make e switch easier. i read the same thing from another forum member. but i cant seem to figure how out the inner tailcap with the charger works. finally i give up trying to figure it out and concluded it must be controlled by software or someshit.
would be nice to be able to still use the inner cap to charge the battery with ts10 internals.
i seem to have confused myself thinking about this more.
on the ts10 the positive on driver connects to negative tailcap spring.
driver negative outer ring connects to tailcap negaive outer ring via inner tube.
how is the outer tube connected to the circuit
i am a rookie but i am willing to learn.
i wanted to add that i have a copper ts10 and didnt want to disassemble it so I’ve been watching this to see how the ts10 looks inside. i dont understand a word he’s saying
I belive the body connects to the driver via a screw through the shelf. It does double purpose of securing the driver. I didn’t look to closely when I was modding mine but that’s how I assumed it worked.
Maybe it will help… Search is a wonderful thing…
fitted a tailcap from the cheapy zoomie wurkkos sends you with their 18350s. took like 15mm off it. chopped off the cheapy tube threads and slipped them over the anker. perfect fit, crazy.
gonna be like 100mm. bit longer than ts11 but about same size as my sp33s shorty.
gonna mickey mouse a pill out of plumbing shit from home depot. that’s ez. the hard part is creating a lip with o ring groove for the glass, bezel. by hand.
this is fun
I love the plumbing part. I have one of those projects right now, too.
I tried making an o-ring groove in a bezel with a hole saw and woodworkong drill press. It didn’t work very well. Despite holding it in a vise the best I could, there was too much vibration for the tolerances I was trying. I would probably have better luck using the hole saw by hand to slowly scrape out the material.
Thanks for the update and pics. Always fun to see what people are working on.
did it seal well? I’m gonna do it by hand. those hole saw bits are usually thick. hope i can find a 1mm thick one. if not i might just use a tiny flat head and scrape a groove.
need to wait for the ts10 before all that. $16 shipped from the wurkkos site right now. ordered a couple days ago
It’s still a work in progress and I haven’t had success with the o-ring yet. I bought two different designs of cheap hole saws to try. I forget where I left off with those and can’t look right now.
I thought about buying a cheap 1.5mm ball end mill and trying it in a rotary tool but I don’t think it would work well freehand or in a drill press. I could see it snapping pretty easily if there’s any chatter, which there would probably be a lot of.
chipping at this little by little. still need to go thinner but here’s where im at. new plan for o ring seal. ok. so check this out, let me know what you guys think.
i want to use 2 pieces of 1mm glass lens glued together. top plate glass will be a few mm smaller in diameter creating a small step. the top glass will be near flush with the top of the bezel. in that step will be the o ring sanwiched between the bezel lip and the glass step.
will glue dry clear? 2 pieces of glass plus tir lens too much? how well will this seal? I’m sure it’s been done before…
There are optically clear adhesives.
Optical Properties of Adhesives, Sealants and Coatings | MasterBond.com adhesive&msclkid=f6e63fecb7041f9779fe5ae43ae80f82&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=USA Specific&utm_term=optical adhesive&utm_content=Optical_General
They typically use a UV cure. Of course the application and cure is key. Then, of course, there is the part (glass) sizing and mechanical assembly. Maybe doable ?? Interesting idea. If you have the tools, maybe a 2mm thick glass and cut/grind the step. IDK.
uv, i see. for the sizes, i have a source for 14mm to 40mm in .5mm increments. im going with 19 to 20mm on the bottom and 16.5 or 17mm on top.
source on ebay.