howto: flash ATtiny with AVRDude and command prompt

Interesting, are there any components on the back of this PCB? If not, then all data lines are directly connected between the IC and the programming connector. Now compare my USBasp called EvUSBasp http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261545767062 It has a 4-resistor buffer block near the MISO line which does protect the IC but also degrades data output from it.

If you can confirm that there are no resistors at the back then I will remove the block and make direct connections instead.

When you refer to 105D you mean the 8 x AMC7135 version, right?

There’s resistors on the back, along with other components. Can u/load photo in the morning if you like.
Yes, 8*7135 105d.

I’ve already tried it with MISO resistor shorted but still no go. No problem when AMCs are cut off.

Great, but I still sounds weird that it would be because it’s a 105D. The AMC7135s have three pins. One goes to LED-, one goes to ground, and the last goes to PB1 on the MCU… exactly the same as the 105C… As far as I know, the only “officially” described difference with the 105D is the 7135 positions and removal of stars. I doubt that these changes are causing your flashing difficulties.

I never said it was because of 105D. It is about the number of AMCs - read it again. Flashing works on 3 of them but fails on 8. The more of them the higher the load, obviously. It is exactly like adding resistors in parallel.

You are right, my bad.

But instead of cutting and soldering all the time I think the easier solution is to get a different flasher. My first driver board for my M6 build (Mod: My SupFire M6 "BMF" edition (new beamshots in OP).) has 48 x AMC7135s on PB1. No issues at all flashing it.

On a related note, using the USBasp from Fasttech, I had no trouble flashing a 32x7135 driver and I didn’t need to cut any traces or anything. I haven’t had issues flashing any attiny13-based driver with it, unless the driver had extra pins grounded (stars soldered). The only tricky part is getting a solid connection on the clip; sometimes that takes a few tries.

I tried it on another 2.8A Convoy S2+ and again had to cut the track to flash it.

Each AMC7135 needs 0.2mA supply so it would be 1.6mA with 8 of them which is well within specs of the programming chip. But these are DC specs and it gets worse with impedance and high programming frequencies.

I did update the EvUSBasp’s firmware to the latest v2011-05-28.

I will get a Fasttech USBasp on my next order.

Hmmm… the cops just busted some dude flashing his tiny around town… :party:

Ahh… easy way to increase post count :wink:

Figures…

So…

You want us to pass the hat for your bail?

0:)

Nah, but they confiscated my favorite overcoat… J)

I got in a bunch of mega328 chips that have the default fuses set to use a crystal oscillator… bastards… can’t use my neat little ISP adapter with the ZIF socket. It is set up to handle tinys, 2313’s, and mega328’s. Supporting the 2313 winds up grounding the oscillator lines so I can just kludge on a crystal. Now I gotta hack up another board and buy another zif socket.

Anybody do this on Windows 10 yet? I can’t get AVR Dude to recognize my USBasp.

Solved my own problem, but in case anyone else is interested, this was super easy:
http://rayshobby.net/dead-simple-driver-installation-for-usbasp-and-usbtiny-on-windows/

Yes - needed to get the new driver that supports it. I wrote bout this before... Hhmm. Should find a link to dnld here: http://www.protostack.com/accessories/usbasp-avr-programmer

This is a pretty goof forum on ATMEL stuff in general: http://www.avrfreaks.net/

Hey guys I’ve been trying to flash an attiny25 driver I have hand soldered but it isn’t working. I get contact with some other 13a based drivers not built by myself but the 25 just won’t work. I usually get this output:

But I’ve gotten this too a few times:

I’ve tried flashing a spare attiny25 and that actually made contact and flashed. So I’m thinking either my cheap China soic8 clip is not making contact or my attiny is dead. I’ve tried my best removing excess solder from the legs but it hasn’t worked so far. Anyone have any ideas?

It looks like a bad connection, although the second error I haven't seen before. Sometimes the excess solder on the legs makes it really hard to get a good connection with the SOIC clip.

I got a big problem here

I am flashing Attiny 85s for Narsil

first flash works perfectly

then I flash again with adjusted temperature offset
and it says cant veryfiy first byte 0x0000 of the written data
the chip has 0x00 not 0x44, so it seems after first erase its stuck

I just took a brand new one
and flashed it 2 times at the same time, same error

this is now the 2. Attiny I cant flash a second time, if I get more I get in trouble

I got that sometimes. Re-clipping or cleaning up the clip connections with isop. alcohol usually helps.

no its not the 8. chip in a row with that behavior, even the brand new out of the cut tape give me this error

I flashed over hundred chips and usually reclipping helped, but first I reclipped like 10 times with no change
then I reflowed a brand new
first flash worked fine
did the temperature offset
then flash 2. time again this error
checked the last 11 Narsil boards I had reflowed
6 were OK 5 were not ok

Then I too another new from tape and got this error again

then I made a video to have proof to get to Digikey support to get replacements asap

just used a Bistro hex to get the video shorter